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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 01:39 PM
  #16  
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Congrats on the new to you truck!

Pueblo Gold is one of the rarest of the rare colors.

Originally Posted by johnsonjf
...will soon be adding a new air filter system, probably Airade, and modifying the air inlet opening behind the grill.
Originally Posted by ycis
what makes you want to upgrade the air intake? all of my reading seems to point that the factory system is more than adequate?

It is, that's why I'd save my money on an intake. The 6.0s air intake is quite efficient and good up until you reach 500hp. The stock intake also does an exceptional job of feeding the 6.0 clean, uncontaminated air, whereas aftermarket intakes are sometimes questionable.

The zoodad mod is a very popular mod that really helps then engine get the much needed air to breathe better.

Originally Posted by Magnus E
Is your intercooler tube (to intake manifold) aftermarket? I'm looking to replace the plastic tube in my 05 X and am curious as to the different options out there.
The '03 and some late '04 engines got the metal tube as opposed to the plastic one found on some late '04 engines and 2005 to 2007 engines. They're available aftermarket if you check a few of FTE's sponsors and online.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 01:47 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by machmedic
That looks like an aftermarket oil filter, they can cause problems.


You must have x-ray vision because the oil filter is not on top of the engine.

Are you looking at the fuel filter cap?

Stewart
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 01:52 PM
  #18  
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Thanks! Very helpful info. Sorry for the high jack - I too like JonsonJF's X - congrats!
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 02:00 PM
  #19  
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I can tell from reading many different posts I have a lot to learn aboutdiesel engines, this is my first so there will be a steep learning curve.

I have had a thumping sound under the drivers feet, no rhythm just every nowand then. I posted this information to a different thread and several peoplerecommended changing the sway bar link bushings. I was not able to find thebushings so I just picked up links, one for each side. I will change them inthe parking lot after work, shouldn't take but a few minutes.

I have a leak on the front right axle so a new seal and upper and lower balljoints and u-joint while I have everything apart will be the first order ofbusiness. After that I will concentrate on the EGR delete and turbo back exhaustsystem. Can’t really think of anything else I would need to do to keep thisbeast humming on the road.

I will be using Rotella diesel oil and Fram filter, any recommendations onthe interval between changes? I normally change my gas engine oil every 3500miles but I know diesels will go much longer between changes.

Thanks,
Jeff
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 02:09 PM
  #20  
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was told that its a really poor idea to use filters other than the motorcraft replacement one...they are all about the same price so why risk it?

5k on the rotella was the general consensus based on my readings.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 02:21 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by johnsonjf
I can tell from reading many different posts I have a lot to learn aboutdiesel engines, this is my first so there will be a steep learning curve.

I have had a thumping sound under the drivers feet, no rhythm just every nowand then. I posted this information to a different thread and several peoplerecommended changing the sway bar link bushings. I was not able to find thebushings so I just picked up links, one for each side. I will change them inthe parking lot after work, shouldn't take but a few minutes.

I have a leak on the front right axle so a new seal and upper and lower balljoints and u-joint while I have everything apart will be the first order ofbusiness. After that I will concentrate on the EGR delete and turbo back exhaustsystem. Can’t really think of anything else I would need to do to keep thisbeast humming on the road.

I will be using Rotella diesel oil and Fram filter, any recommendations onthe interval between changes? I normally change my gas engine oil every 3500miles but I know diesels will go much longer between changes.

Thanks,
Jeff
Seems like a good idea to replace the oil cooler and screen while you have the intake out to do the EGR delete. Perhaps add a coolant filter.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 03:09 PM
  #22  
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Last time I checked (which was a week ago when I changed my oil), the engine oil filter was on top on my 03 6.0l PSD, under a spiffy black cap, super easy to change. (its the one with the bigger cap)

Get a Motorcraft filter. For me, Autozone has the best price.

I did my first oil change with Rotella T5, the non synthetic, less wallet busting option. On my second oil change, I went with T6 after learning how important engine oil is to these diesels. On previous cars, I didn't usually go with full synthetic, I just made sure to change the oil very often. On the 6.0 PSD, oil does more than just lubricate the engine (read up on how the fuel injectors work if you aren't familiar). After experiencing a bit of injector stiction, I switched to T6 and honestly, the engine idles quieter and more smoothly. It really does. So, I'm sold on the full synthetic Rotella T6. Walmart is your wallet's best friend for purchasing oil. If you want to go all out, try some Rev X.

Might as well take a diesel bath and replace the fuel filter under the car on the driver's side and also the much easier one on top of the engine near the oil filter. Trust me when I say, wear clothes that you don't mind burning when you're done. Its really hard not to have diesel run all down your arm.

About the clunk, I had the same thing right after purchasing mine a year ago. I replaced the end links and the bushings. My issue was a bushing and not an end link so don't be surprised if you still have a clunk after replacing just the end links.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 04:05 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H


You must have x-ray vision because the oil filter is not on top of the engine.

Are you looking at the fuel filter cap?

Stewart
Yes...it is. It is very noticeably an aftermarket cap on the oil filter.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #24  
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Nice looking X. I would think about doing head studs also.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 04:19 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by acf6
Yes...it is. It is very noticeably an aftermarket cap on the oil filter.
Agreed. The stock cap is basically flat with threads on it. The cap in the picture looks to be an inch or two high(er).
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 04:28 PM
  #26  
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are you sure?

mine has a large nut on the top just like that one...its also bone stock.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 04:32 PM
  #27  
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Yes there's a large nut on top of the stock cap but the cap is essentially shaped like a Frisbee. It is low profile in other words.

The one in the pic is really tall.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by acf6
Yes...it is. It is very noticeably an aftermarket cap on the oil filter.
Huh? That's the fuel bowl filter cap. Obviously aftermarket because it looks nothing like the OEM......emmm......emmmmmmmmmmmmmcrap.

I just realized I'm looking at a 6.0L PSD.



I'll go back to my corner now......

50 lashes with a wet noodle for speeding through a post yet again. This time is was a pic though...A PIC!!

Stewart
 

Last edited by Stewart_H; Aug 20, 2013 at 04:45 PM.
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 06:59 PM
  #29  
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Well the clunk is fixed. It wasn't bad bushings or worn out links, the left side was just loose, both top and bottom nuts were lose just enough to cause the noise.

I will take a better picture of the cap we are discussing so everybody can see what it looks like close up.

Jeff
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 01:33 AM
  #30  
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That cap looks just like the Wix cap I pulled off my totally stock truck, right after I bought it. That thing is way too tall to be the stock cap, I'd say that is a pretty good pic of it. Unscrew that cap, and the filter is probably part of it, like a one piece filter cap combo. New filter and new ford cap would be a good idea.
 
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