I know this is an old post, but I just discovered it. We are working on an 86 F150 with a 302. We just got this truck from a friend. He said it just died on him while driving. and it sat for about 3 years after that as he didn't have the time or money to work on it. at any rate, at first we were not getting ANY spark from the coil. After troubleshooting with the Chilton, we came to the determination that it was the Ignition module that is mounted to the distributor. after replacing, still no spark, we have replaced the Coil, distributor (whole thing), Cap, rotor etc. Still no spark. I took it to a local shop, paid them $100, and they told me that my ignition module was bad. I towed the truck back home, exchanged the Ignition module at the auto parts store and put in a second new one. Now I have a different symptom. Now when we turn it over I seem to get a brief spark at the very beginning of the crank and then again right when we let off, although intermittent, sometimes seems like we don't get really any spark. I have seen through out this post several different theories, from starter relay to EEC module. Any help would be great. How do I tell if I have a ballist system?

 

We are working on an 86 F150 with a 302. We just got this truck from a friend. He said it just died on him while driving. and it sat for about 3 years after that as he didn't have the time or money to work on it. at any rate, at first we were not getting ANY spark from the coil. After troubleshooting with the Chilton, we came to the determination that it was the Ignition module that is mounted to the distributor. after replacing, still no spark, we have replaced the Coil, distributor (whole thing), Cap, rotor etc. Still no spark. I took it to a local shop, paid them $100, and they told me that my ignition module was bad. I towed the truck back home, exchanged the Ignition module at the auto parts store and put in a second new one. Now I have a different symptom. Now when we turn it over I seem to get a brief spark at the very beginning of the crank and then again right when we let off, although intermittent, sometimes seems like we don't get really any spark. I have seen in other posts that it could be the starter drawing too much voltage and thus not getting good spark while turning over, I have seen it could be the starter relay, the balist resistor etc. I don't know where to go from here. I don't typically like throwing in parts to chase a problem but am getting frustrated!!! HELP!!!

 

Pull out the SPOUT or unplug the computer and see if spark returns. If it does then you may have a bad Computer.
Also check the small black ground wire with a green stripe at the battery NEG post for a good ground.
Note it will not start with the computer unplugged.

 

Thanks Subford.

I will give that a try when I get home from work. So to be clear, if I unplug the EEC IV module from under the dash and turn it over and spark returns, its a bad EEC IV. In that case is that something we cold pull from a Pick 'N Pull and install? would there need to be programming done etc?

 

You have to get the right computer with the correct number on it for a used one to work. You can probably do a search on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market in your area and see if something comes up.

You can also pull error codes from this computer. The computer will actually "talk" to you and tell you if it sees anything wrong. It doesn't know everything, but if something is obvious it will give you a code for it. You don't need anything but a testlight and some knowledge to pull the codes from this early style computer. Here's a site that tells you all about it. Fuel Injection Technical Library

 

To the original poster. You started a new thread for your problem, which is good. But you also tacked a post onto a 3 page older thread, and people were answering that. I moved those answers and posts from that old thread to your new thread you had started. This will be a thread about YOUR problem only.

 

So I removed the eec module and cranked the engine... LOTS OF SPARK!!!

So does this mean that the EEC is bad? or is there something causing it to "React" that way?

I have searched the part number on it and there are some listed on ebay for around $120. Is this something that i can just plug and play? or is it more complicated than that? The part number listed on it is E6TF-12A650-V1A. That is the exact same number as the ebay unit...

Thank you so much for your help it is very appreciated!!

 

More than likely the computer is bad.
Open it up and take a look at the caps.
See if they are leaking or any parts are burned up.

Sometimes you can replace the caps and bridge gaps in the traces that have been eaten through.

 

So when you say "caps" are you referring to Capacitors?

...and I have no idea what a bridge gap is....

 

Yes when I said caps I was talking about the Electrolytic Capacitors.
They can leak and the acid out of them can eat though a trace.
Bridging a gap in the trace can be done with a lead cut off of a resister and soldered across the gap.
You might also look for a crystal lead that has broken loose from from its trace but that will stop the clock and the fuel pump will run all the time the key is on.

 

I will check that tonight!

Thanks Again!