'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
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'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
I'm hoping someone can tell me how to run down a spark problem on a '88 f150 with a efi 302. I have read and read the diffrent forums and have determined that the engine has no spark thru the advice of one poster who says to simply pull a spark plug,plug it back into the plug wire, then ground the electrode into on the exhaust manifold and with someone cranking the engine,see if a spark jumps between the two electrodes. I have done this and there is no spark. I have also learned that the (TFI) ignition module is prone to failure and it is a good place to start to figure out a "no spark" problem. But, should I check something else first before the $40 investment into the ignition module?. Can I pull the distributor end of the coil wire, hold it close to the exhaust manifold and while someone is cranking the motor,check for a spark here? Will this tell me whether or not the coil is working? This truck belongs to my neighbor and I have access to it anytime. I really want to be able to help so, any advice would be very much appreciated. One more thing. The distributor rotor does turn when the engine is cranked.Thanks.
Last edited by raywa; Mar 4, 2003 at 09:42 PM.
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From: Chesapeake
'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
raywa,
I feel your pain and the pain you may go through. I am going through my own ignition nightmare on my 87 F-150. As soon as it stops raining today I am putting a new EEC-IV module. It is the last component. I have already replaced the battery, starter relay, ignition switch, coil, TFI ignition module, distributer, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, I also bought an MSD box but I am going to wait till I get the timing close to install it. I used the chilton manual and it kept sending me in circles and having me replace parts and here I am about $350 in the hole on ignition and just keeping my fingers crossed on the computer. I had no power out from my coil with the old computer, I replaced it with a junk yard version that was close (302 from a t-bird) and had spark, but could not keep it running long enough to set the time. Hopefully the new computer (which was only $89) works.
I feel your pain and the pain you may go through. I am going through my own ignition nightmare on my 87 F-150. As soon as it stops raining today I am putting a new EEC-IV module. It is the last component. I have already replaced the battery, starter relay, ignition switch, coil, TFI ignition module, distributer, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, I also bought an MSD box but I am going to wait till I get the timing close to install it. I used the chilton manual and it kept sending me in circles and having me replace parts and here I am about $350 in the hole on ignition and just keeping my fingers crossed on the computer. I had no power out from my coil with the old computer, I replaced it with a junk yard version that was close (302 from a t-bird) and had spark, but could not keep it running long enough to set the time. Hopefully the new computer (which was only $89) works.
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From: Harrisburg USA
'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
Yes, definitely have your module checked, since it's free. Since you've got NO SPARK AT ALL, if the module is bad, it WILL show up in the test. Sometimes a bad module WON'T show up in a test, if it is only intermittent. Yours should be DEAD. If the test indicates that it is GOOD, there is a chance that it is the pick-up inside the distributor (stator). Even though the stator is a very simple device, these particular stators are known to have a latent defect, that can cause a "no start" condition. I had it happen to me once. Also, you can check the coil resistance in both the PRIMARY & SECONDARY of your spark coil. The primary should have a resistance of several ohms, but you NEED TO GET THE EXACT SPEC, since they aren't all identical. I forget what the secondary is supposed to be. If the PRIMARY resistance is too low, it will draw too much current through the module, if it starts AT ALL, and burn up the module quickly. Keep us updated with your progress.
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'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
kabal2002: Quote...."You can check that way. But you should check to be sure the coil is getting power first."simple test light"
If not jump it to the battery and crank it."
Can you elaborate a little more? Such as,
How do I test the coil with a test light?.
Also, where does the coil get it's power from?. I'm thinking probably alternator. Is that correct?
Is it safe for the engine, to hold the distributor end of the coil wire to a ground and turn the engine over to look for spark?
and is this a reasonably reliable test of the coil?
Quote..."If not jump it to the battery and crank it."
I'm not sure what this means. Please elaborate a little more.
amp17757: are you saying that a faulty coil can ruin a new ignition module, even if a new module gets the truck running?.
I bought a special tool today to remove the ignition module.I will try to find a place to have it tested.
Thanks for all your guy's help.
If not jump it to the battery and crank it."
Can you elaborate a little more? Such as,
How do I test the coil with a test light?.
Also, where does the coil get it's power from?. I'm thinking probably alternator. Is that correct?
Is it safe for the engine, to hold the distributor end of the coil wire to a ground and turn the engine over to look for spark?
and is this a reasonably reliable test of the coil?
Quote..."If not jump it to the battery and crank it."
I'm not sure what this means. Please elaborate a little more.
amp17757: are you saying that a faulty coil can ruin a new ignition module, even if a new module gets the truck running?.
I bought a special tool today to remove the ignition module.I will try to find a place to have it tested.
Thanks for all your guy's help.
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'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
Here is what we discovered tonight.
There is no spark coming from the coil.
Does this elimnate the questionable "ignition module" ?.
I guess what I am asking "if there is no spark from the coil, should I be looking at something other than the ignition module?.
Or, is this system so connected that it could still be the ignition module.?
Any advice?? Please.
There is no spark coming from the coil.
Does this elimnate the questionable "ignition module" ?.
I guess what I am asking "if there is no spark from the coil, should I be looking at something other than the ignition module?.
Or, is this system so connected that it could still be the ignition module.?
Any advice?? Please.
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'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
By the way.
I'm not just some C***Y guy who is here for a little info. I am in the process of a complete restore on a '72 bronco and, I will some day own a very nice Grabber Maverick,also. I am all about Fords.It's just that I don't know much. But when I learn,by god, I will also contribute to this forum. Thanks for any info,Mark.
I'm not just some C***Y guy who is here for a little info. I am in the process of a complete restore on a '72 bronco and, I will some day own a very nice Grabber Maverick,also. I am all about Fords.It's just that I don't know much. But when I learn,by god, I will also contribute to this forum. Thanks for any info,Mark.
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From: Harrisburg USA
'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
Raywa, the module actually controls the current to the coil. So, if there is no spart at the coil, it STILL could be the module. As mentioned in previousl replies, I would check the module FIRST, and either confirm or rule out. THEN you will know whether or not you must look further. If the module checks out good, then do the resistance checks on the spark coil. If the COIL checks out good, then I am very suspicious of the stator. Even as simple and basic as they are, they DO FAIL. Check it out, keep us posted.
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From: CenterLine, MI.
'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
to check the coil with a test light just ground the clamp end of the light and use the other end on the POS side of the coil. As long as
the ignition key is forward the POS terminal on the coil should
be live. When you crank the engine over the ingnition module
controls the NEG side of the coil.
the ignition key is forward the POS terminal on the coil should
be live. When you crank the engine over the ingnition module
controls the NEG side of the coil.
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'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
kabal2002. Thank You for explaining the test proceedure to me. I'm going to do that today.
amp17757.I will start with replacing the ignition module, and I will certainly post the results.
This site rocks!!!!!!
amp17757.I will start with replacing the ignition module, and I will certainly post the results.
This site rocks!!!!!!
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'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
raywa, I hope that i can give you some word of advise to help and save you some trouble. I have a 1988 5.0 mustang that has the same EEC-IV module. I spent countless hours and testing of parts and replacing parts to INCLUDE TESTING THE MODULE THAT CAME BACK AS GOOD. Wrong!!!! The modules are known to have problems. If you go to blueoval.com you will find out that the EEC-IV ign modules have been recalled due to the **** poor performance. Quit scratching your head and break down and spend the 50 dollars or so and replace it.
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'88 ford ignition problem,Please Help!
labrous:
Out of town over the weekend. Thanks for your post and with what the other guys are saying, I think it's pretty clear that the module is a good place to start. I'll change that module tomorrow and I'll let you guys know what happens.Thanks again for all the help.
Out of town over the weekend. Thanks for your post and with what the other guys are saying, I think it's pretty clear that the module is a good place to start. I'll change that module tomorrow and I'll let you guys know what happens.Thanks again for all the help.
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