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Woops, that was dumb. For some reason I thought you had a holley carb. The edelbrock is not externally adjustable. You have to take it apart to adjust the float level.
great...of course it does....how do I go about doing this? is it easy?
ive been doing research and i can't find any easily followed instructions... could you please explain what I have to do?
sorry for the double post.... allow me to explain my problem a little more.. The truck idles perfectly..and If I am easy on the gas, i can cruise around.. But if I give it too much gas, it backfires like crazy.
Edelbrock has their owner's/maintenance manuals online. You need to know your part number. As for the backfiring. If you're able to idle fine but get the backfiring out of the pipes at acceleration I would say you need to go to a smaller CFM. For example, I have a 650 CFM carb on my truck and I have a 460 in it.
If you don't want to get a different carb, then Edelbrock does have a metering rod chart that you can use to lean your mixture but you'll have to take the carb apart to do it.
Edelbrock carbs are simple to work on but knowing what to buy can be tricky. I have never messed with my metering rods as my mixture was fine.
sorry for the double post.... allow me to explain my problem a little more.. The truck idles perfectly..and If I am easy on the gas, i can cruise around.. But if I give it too much gas, it backfires like crazy.
Let's make sure again; This backfiring is out of the exhaust correct? It's not backfiring up into the aircleaner is it?
Alright.. I finally learned how to adjust the floats.. The floats did seem to be off a bit.. I adjusted them to where they are about right.. I don't even an electronic caliper, so I just eyeballed it using sockets...Well Anyways.. Now it wont start.. and to compound the problem, the truck now tries to turn over even when the key is turned off.. please help.
The truck probably keeps turning over because you replaced the solenoid with one from China, and they like to stick. This is a case where new is not always better. If you happen to still have the old one, put it back on and see if it stops doing it.
It won't start; With the truck off, look down the carb throat as you push the throttle open. Does fuel quirt into the engine?
The truck probably keeps turning over because you replaced the solenoid with one from China, and they like to stick. This is a case where new is not always better. If you happen to still have the old one, put it back on and see if it stops doing it.
It won't start; With the truck off, look down the carb throat as you push the throttle open. Does fuel quirt into the engine?
Well, I didn't place it on there.. I just bought this truck like 2 weeks ago, and i've been trying to get it running ever since.. I do not have the old solenoid.
Well, I didn't place it on there.. I just bought this truck like 2 weeks ago, and i've been trying to get it running ever since.. I do not have the old solenoid.
any quick fixes to get it unstuck?
Rap on it with a screwdriver handle or something of similar mass, see if that unsticks it.
Haha.. That did the trick! I went and got my battery charged... and boom, the bitch started right up! It no longer backfires! I believe I finally fixed it! I just drove it and it works pretty good.
Now a small problem is that when I floor it, it doesn't really pick up. I think my problem is that I don't have the downshift cable hooked up correctly. The carburetor bracket doesn't seem compatible with my truck, so I have them jerry rigged to the throttle.
You might want to adjust your timing too.
My truck back fired like crazy, fixed my choke, flooded. Rebuilt the carb, still backfired like mad. Replaced some ignition module a little better, at first. Eventually started to okay with timing, and now she's running like a top!
You might want to adjust your timing too.
My truck back fired like crazy, fixed my choke, flooded. Rebuilt the carb, still backfired like mad. Replaced some ignition module a little better, at first. Eventually started to okay with timing, and now she's running like a top!
thats what i figured... I've actually never adjusted the timing before, how do I go about doing it?
thats what i figured... I've actually never adjusted the timing before, how do I go about doing it?
It's really easy.
1. Start the truck.
2. Find the dizzy(distrubutor cap and assembly)
3. Underneath it there's a bolt, most are 1/2. Loosen it, a full turn-ish.
4. Barely rotate the dizzy, idle will get higher, or lower depending. You'll probably stall it a time or two until you fully learn how little it needs to be moved. Be VERY cautious as the engine is running, belts are turning, and that meat shredding fan is spinning.
5. Tighten and test drive!
I had bad spark knock once I got my flooding issue fixed so I messed with timing and it's been great since...cept this cursed whistle...
Alot of people get setting timing and adjusting timing confused. You don't really need to use the marks, it will help you out more then likely, so will setting it by vacuum. But let's face it, is it necessary? Not really. It's like using the tach to shift, is it needed? No you can do it just as good without.
If you have a vacuum gauge I suggest doing that way. Google or fte search vacuum timing.
You should use a light for your timing. You are correct, you can adjust it, test drive it, adjust it, test drive it, etc. But you need to know where you are at so you do not go way off the chart and the point of no return. You can at least know where you started with a light, so you can put it back if things go wrong. I have found that sometimes you end up moving it too much if you go by the rpm of the engine.
1. Start the truck.
2. Find the dizzy(distrubutor cap and assembly)
3. Underneath it there's a bolt, most are 1/2. Loosen it, a full turn-ish.
4. Barely rotate the dizzy, idle will get higher, or lower depending. You'll probably stall it a time or two until you fully learn how little it needs to be moved. Be VERY cautious as the engine is running, belts are turning, and that meat shredding fan is spinning.
5. Tighten and test drive!
I had bad spark knock once I got my flooding issue fixed so I messed with timing and it's been great since...cept this cursed whistle...
Alot of people get setting timing and adjusting timing confused. You don't really need to use the marks, it will help you out more then likely, so will setting it by vacuum. But let's face it, is it necessary? Not really. It's like using the tach to shift, is it needed? No you can do it just as good without.
If you have a vacuum gauge I suggest doing that way. Google or fte search vacuum timing.
Well, I took a look at my truck.. I don't see any bolt near the distributor.. I pulled the cap off it and everything... I don't see a bolt anywhere.
It's under neath it. I didn't see mine either but then my dad used to have the same truck years again and was like its right here. I have a i6 and there's a wad of wires that go over the bolt and it hid it on me
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