Personally, I don't see anything fancy about that alt. A NEW ACDelco 3g alt can be had for $135 and remans starting at $95. Here in Phoenix used start at $45-$90.

 

I think the main point was missed...

Install a 3G, junkyard or otherwise and you have a solid alternator that will last, put out 160+ amps and is available EVERYWHERE.

Stuck on the side of the road, whatcha gonna do? Buy a normal 1G to get home, that may or may not fit in the altered bracket to fit that Tuff Stuff alternator and then get stuck trying to warranty a Summit Racing POS and then get stuck again with a POS 1G collecting dust when things are figured out?

Why re-invent what works?

Josh

 

sorry, why is it a pos? I guarantee you the autozone/advance auto replacement isn't gonna be made here, and just from talking to mechanics lately, they are getting really high rates of failures (dead out of box or dead within first 24 hours) on "rebuilt" alts from the parts houses. I'd feel much better about an all new made in the USA alt than one of those 'spray and pray' deals from a parts house (pull from junkyard, spray new paint where it counts, pray its in good shape and box it up and send it out). I get that you think the 3g alternator is better, though youre not gonna be getting 160 amps with any typical 3g swap (and in fact you probably won't get it at all but thats another story), but this is just another alternative. I have a different scenario for you, instead of knowing its the alternator and not being able to find a replacement, how about this one: youre stuck in the woods, your truck is in 18" of mud, you just got off a long winch run, and your truck isn't charging. Its getting dark. You need to diagnose the electrical system. Your truck's harness has a spliced on 3g harness and you aren't sure if its the problem. Ooops. the 1 wire would be a hell of a lot simpler. just saying, different strokes are ok for different folks. There isn't a "best part ever" for every situation, if there was, everyone would build their trucks the same. Thank god that doesn't happen.

 

If my truck breaks down, I will call a tow truck. Then fix my truck at home.

 

A 3G is under rated and easily puts out 160-170 amps peak.

2nd, a 3G is a simple 2 wire hookup a crack ***** chimp could figure that out.

Josh

 

Easily puts out 160-170 amps? Where did you get this info?

I have read 130amp for a typical 3g swap out of taurus, etc.

 

Theres, literally, nothing inside of one that goes bad from sitting 5 or 50 years, you can get a 3G brand new online and I can order a rebuild or new unit online for still cheaper than you guys are mentioning.

A billet pulley is some mad bling though.

There's something nice about actually being able to find a set of brushes for mine. Just curious why the lack of interest in the 3G.


Here is a link showing one running over 130A from a junk yard and here is a link to a 200A rectifier for under a hunnerd bucks and here is a link to a 160A unit for $130.

If I'm stuck in mud and my alternator isnt working, I'm not in my vehicle. They are one of the easiest things to check the condition of in a junk yard and I have a spare regulator and brushes kicking around in the box I keep the bolts for my topper in.

Just a few options; I was hoping there were some good arguments against the 3g...

 

Plenty of info... Do I really need to google it for you, are you that lazy?

I have done several 3G swaps, I even swapped a 3G into my 2006 Super Duty.

It's the small case 95 amp 3G that's the turd, the 130 amp is rated low.

Josh

 

My 2 cents:

1) One-wire alternators aren't necessarily simpler. They may appear simpler because there is less to hook up outside, but that's because everything else is inside, where you have less access to find clues in the event of a problem. They also require a minimum RPM to be placed into regulation, which can present problems in various situations. 1G and 3G alternators, one would argue, can be simpler to troubleshoot.

2) Statements such as "this alternator puts out ___ amps" are misleading unless they're qualified by the demand placed on the alternator. For a given demand (a.k.a. current requirement), all alternators will produce the same current at a given RPM up to some degree. It's once the demand increases that a higher-rated alternator makes a difference. The alternator only produces the current required to maintain 14 volts at the battery. The regulator (inside or outside) adjusts the field current to make this happen. A 3G alternator doesn't put out 130+ amps simply because it's a 3G alternator. If all you're doing is idling with your windshield wipers on, the current demand will be much lower than 130 amps.

I'm sure my second point is well understood by the folks on this thread, but what I'm trying to say is one needs to evaluate their needs before buying an alternator, because more often than not, a 65-70 amp stock alternator does just fine until aftermarket loads are added. It's perfectly reasonable to argue that it's worth upgrading to a 3G anyway (and not use its extended capability) given how cost effective the install is. Some folks opt not to go through the effort of the conversion and prefer to buy an alternative solution with less modification (such as a high-output 1G or a one-wire), which is fine, but they need to understand what kind of current requirements they're going to place on it.

 

My son just bought the 160A alt from RJM Injection. Been using it about a month. No issues, powers his amps just fine. He is trying to get me to buy this one over a jy 3g. lol

 

So wich one did he buy

 

His truck is a 96 so he got the 160a side mount 3g.

 

Thanks for everyone's input. I guess I will need to measure and make sure I have an extra 3/16" clearance. I am a big fan of buying products made in the USA and not real keen on buying mechanical items from a junk yard (just my opinion money is easier to come by then my time)


I checked the Tuff stuff's on their 3g ones and I really don't see that they are 3x less expensive. http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...-style/ford-3g



Is it a easy conversion to a one wire hook up?

 

fixed for you

 

What am I missing? How is that statement stupid?