Tri-power Question ?
Tri-power Question ?
Kurt, blocking off the ends and setting each one up in the center is a long standing way of doing it. It sets a starting point.
Then with all 3 mounted and fed BUT no linkage attached you do a final tune of the idle circuits and balance with the UniSyn. Then attach the linkage and make sure it has no effect in the idle position. Finally set the center idle rpm screw.
Then the fun begins selecting the proper power valves first and then the jets. I can walk you thru those steps later.
Tests have shown performance is slightly better with the end carbs choke plates in place and locked open; something about creating turbulance in the air flow and directing it into the carb.
I would HIGHLY recommend power valves in the ends. For street driving throughout the rpm/vacuum range they will not operate correctly without them. You can get them to function well at idle or WOT but not over the full range. Plugging was primarily for the drag strip.
These are not like GM Rochester tripowers that had special end carbs with no idle or transition circuits.
The 94 was designed by Chandler Grove for Ford in '37 and appeared on '38 vehicles. Ford screwed CG and awarded all subsequent contracts to Holley which built the remaining years of production. Stromberg and Bendix got some revenge in later years by selling 94 style replacement carbs with the 97 logo.
Those 97's often show on E Bay as original Strombergs and sell to uneducated buyers.
The Ford/Holley names came to be used interchangably. There are no tags, the model ID is cast into the drivers side bowl and the venturi size is on the back, 94, 1 and 1 1/16 for flathead, 239/256 (truck only) Y and 272/292 in that order.
There are also a LZ (Lincoln Zephyr) and 92 (V8-60) models.
The 94 is the same as the Holley 2100, the ECG is the 2110, I dont believe the EBU/EBV (1" venturi) had a direct Holley equivalent as it was a relatively low production with the 2110 being a parts counter replacement. Was there a 2105?
Dewayne, worn throttle bores are a common 94 problem which is why so many flea market carbs were found in a junk box to start with. A quick and simple test is to spray some soapy water around all suspect areas and listen for a engine stumble. Would you believe that an original Holley manual suggested testing with an unlit propane torch?
Another reason is mechanics and even rebuilders of the era were clueless about the subtle internal differences over the years and they half assed swapped parts (me included back in those days). Those also wound up under the bench to surface 50 years later.
Since I got back into flatheads in 1970 I have made it a point to spend some serious time studying the 94 in all its flavors. And debunking some long held myths.
Then with all 3 mounted and fed BUT no linkage attached you do a final tune of the idle circuits and balance with the UniSyn. Then attach the linkage and make sure it has no effect in the idle position. Finally set the center idle rpm screw.
Then the fun begins selecting the proper power valves first and then the jets. I can walk you thru those steps later.
Tests have shown performance is slightly better with the end carbs choke plates in place and locked open; something about creating turbulance in the air flow and directing it into the carb.
I would HIGHLY recommend power valves in the ends. For street driving throughout the rpm/vacuum range they will not operate correctly without them. You can get them to function well at idle or WOT but not over the full range. Plugging was primarily for the drag strip.
These are not like GM Rochester tripowers that had special end carbs with no idle or transition circuits.
The 94 was designed by Chandler Grove for Ford in '37 and appeared on '38 vehicles. Ford screwed CG and awarded all subsequent contracts to Holley which built the remaining years of production. Stromberg and Bendix got some revenge in later years by selling 94 style replacement carbs with the 97 logo.
Those 97's often show on E Bay as original Strombergs and sell to uneducated buyers.
The Ford/Holley names came to be used interchangably. There are no tags, the model ID is cast into the drivers side bowl and the venturi size is on the back, 94, 1 and 1 1/16 for flathead, 239/256 (truck only) Y and 272/292 in that order.
There are also a LZ (Lincoln Zephyr) and 92 (V8-60) models.
The 94 is the same as the Holley 2100, the ECG is the 2110, I dont believe the EBU/EBV (1" venturi) had a direct Holley equivalent as it was a relatively low production with the 2110 being a parts counter replacement. Was there a 2105?
Dewayne, worn throttle bores are a common 94 problem which is why so many flea market carbs were found in a junk box to start with. A quick and simple test is to spray some soapy water around all suspect areas and listen for a engine stumble. Would you believe that an original Holley manual suggested testing with an unlit propane torch?

Another reason is mechanics and even rebuilders of the era were clueless about the subtle internal differences over the years and they half assed swapped parts (me included back in those days). Those also wound up under the bench to surface 50 years later.
Since I got back into flatheads in 1970 I have made it a point to spend some serious time studying the 94 in all its flavors. And debunking some long held myths.
Last edited by 286merc; Jun 16, 2003 at 09:33 PM.
Tri-power Question ?
Pete,
What's that thing under the manifold? Is that a work bench? Is that what they look like? I haven't seen the top of mine for a couple of years now and I've forgotten. I've taken to using plywood over barrels for a makeshift work bench but now that's buried, too.
I've got an Offenhauser 3x2 intake (with a bad leak between the exhaust crossover and the intake plenum
) and a pile of 94's. I'm going to use an ECG for the center carb (thanks Carl) and 7RT's for end carbs. I was wondering what it would take to make the end carbs work off of a diaphragm so that when intake vacuum was low and air velocity was high, they'd open.
And I'm going to use those funky fuel filters that came attached to the carbs, the ones with the glass bowls. They look old and cool.
I'm going to make a plea to everybody to not use rubber hoses or chrome fuel logs to feed their carbs. Do something that looks factory; bend up some steel line and use some small brass tee's to feed the carbs. Look at an original Pontiac tri-power for an example of a factory type fuel line lash-up.
I'm gonna go upstairs and start assembling my 3x2 right now and see what I can do with fuel lines.
What's that thing under the manifold? Is that a work bench? Is that what they look like? I haven't seen the top of mine for a couple of years now and I've forgotten. I've taken to using plywood over barrels for a makeshift work bench but now that's buried, too.
I've got an Offenhauser 3x2 intake (with a bad leak between the exhaust crossover and the intake plenum
) and a pile of 94's. I'm going to use an ECG for the center carb (thanks Carl) and 7RT's for end carbs. I was wondering what it would take to make the end carbs work off of a diaphragm so that when intake vacuum was low and air velocity was high, they'd open.And I'm going to use those funky fuel filters that came attached to the carbs, the ones with the glass bowls. They look old and cool.
I'm going to make a plea to everybody to not use rubber hoses or chrome fuel logs to feed their carbs. Do something that looks factory; bend up some steel line and use some small brass tee's to feed the carbs. Look at an original Pontiac tri-power for an example of a factory type fuel line lash-up.
I'm gonna go upstairs and start assembling my 3x2 right now and see what I can do with fuel lines.
Tri-power Question ?
Carl,
Thanks for the good info. My end carbs do not have the choke plates. On the outside of the carb the holes for the choke attachments have been filled. I dont know when, The carb bodies have the yellow coating and that is over the solder filling. But this means that I have to drill it out to install choke plates. Also both my end carbs have a raised 4 on the venturi throat on the outside and the middle carb has a 2. On the end carbs there is idle stops that resemble the kind with chokes. Gotta go for now Thanks to all.Kurt y-blocks rule!.
Thanks for the good info. My end carbs do not have the choke plates. On the outside of the carb the holes for the choke attachments have been filled. I dont know when, The carb bodies have the yellow coating and that is over the solder filling. But this means that I have to drill it out to install choke plates. Also both my end carbs have a raised 4 on the venturi throat on the outside and the middle carb has a 2. On the end carbs there is idle stops that resemble the kind with chokes. Gotta go for now Thanks to all.Kurt y-blocks rule!.
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