Overheating issues after trans swap
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Overheating issues after trans swap
Hello,
I am in need of some help. I have a 1977 f-250 4x4 that had a 460 auto in it. I spent the last few weeks converting it to a 435 manual. I got the truck together and it seemed to work fine for a few trips around the shop. I tried to drive it home the 30 miles and it started to overheat on the way. It will stay cool on the interstate but it is idling extremely high. As soon as traffic slows the temperature gauge rises quickly. I had no troubles at all with it before the swap. It is full of coolant and the water pump seems to be pumping. The thermostat was wide open but I removed it anyway. That didn't help anything. Any advice on were to start would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
I am in need of some help. I have a 1977 f-250 4x4 that had a 460 auto in it. I spent the last few weeks converting it to a 435 manual. I got the truck together and it seemed to work fine for a few trips around the shop. I tried to drive it home the 30 miles and it started to overheat on the way. It will stay cool on the interstate but it is idling extremely high. As soon as traffic slows the temperature gauge rises quickly. I had no troubles at all with it before the swap. It is full of coolant and the water pump seems to be pumping. The thermostat was wide open but I removed it anyway. That didn't help anything. Any advice on were to start would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,417
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First off put the thermostat back in. Preferably a 180. Next drop your idle to where is should be. 600-800 rpm.
Also, do you have a fan shroud?
Swapping a tranny should have nothing to do with your cooling system. If anything going to a manual should help lower temps not increase them.
Also, do you have a fan shroud?
Swapping a tranny should have nothing to do with your cooling system. If anything going to a manual should help lower temps not increase them.
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That is part of the issue. When it started to do this I tried to back the idle down. The set screw is backed all the way off to the point that it is ready to fall out. It did not change the idle at all. It seems that when the truck cools a little bit the motor doesn't run as fast. Is it possible the timing is off somehow. When I shut it down I have to let the clutch out to kill the motor. It diesels for a long time. The truck doesn't have a shroud but like I said I never had any trouble with it before. I actually drove it from Montana to PA a few months ago towing a Jeep GC on a car trailer and it never got hot once.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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You have a larger issue somewhere. Off the top of my head. Sounds like you need rebuild the carb and check the timing. Then go from there I.E. new cap, rotor, plugs, wires etc.
Also when you say idle screw. Are you talking about the air screws in the front or the idle adjustment screw on the side.
Also when you say idle screw. Are you talking about the air screws in the front or the idle adjustment screw on the side.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,309
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From: Kansas
yes, a large vacuum leak can cause a high idle...and if bad enough can cause the engine to run very lean...and overheat...
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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Yep. I agree a vacuum leak would cause some of those symptoms. Don't know about the dieseling unless you ran it really hot.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
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Nope. As a matter of fact when I was pulling away to head home I was thinking about turning the idle up a little. It seemed to have started this 5 or 6 miles down the road. I hope I didn't hurt anything.
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