Yep this the second engine , I had pulled the valve covers and turned it over and it seems like valves are opening just fine , these heads have dual valve springs btw, but yeah I'll try an check codes , hope it's not too much of a pain, thanks for the link conanski

 

Ahhh..I bet that running the dual valve springs is your problem. Needed to run single springs to break the cam in properly.

Another member(s) can confirm or deny this, but I believe this is your problem. May have already wiped a lobe or lobes.

 

Really ? Can dual valve springs cause all this ? That's crazy , when you say wipe a lobe, does that mean you just round off a lobe? Would that happening cause any internal damage to the engine itself ?

Thanks

 

Another thing is when I first started it it ran with the dual valve springs for about 15 minutes at 2500 rpm, I didn't know about breaking in with dual valve springs , and I hope my cam is ok , and the rest of the engine for that matter ..

 

Dual valve springs isn't the reason. The crappy oil would be more issue with a flat tappet cam. It's preferred to use an oil with proper additives to help keep the cam alive in these older engines. Or a synthetic.
I use the same springs to break in a cam as what it will always run. Do you know how hard it is to change the springs with a head on the engine. It's not fun.

Check timing again. Pull number 1 plug to find tdc and verify zero on balancer and pointer. Triple check firing order. Make sure you route plug wires correctly. Some cheap or worn out wires cross fire when laid against one another. I've had defective new plugs before. Swap 8 with another one and see if the dead cylinder moves.

 

I completely agree about using a SN modern oil causing problems, as these modern oils do not have the high levels of ZDDP to help protect the cam and lifters during the initial break-in.

Now I don't agree with it being ok to run dual valve springs on the initial break-in and below is my reasoning why. (I also agree its a PITA as well to remove them, but seriously, considering how much time, effort, labor, money went into a project, why would you skimp on something that can make or break a project)

Just throwing this into the mix...

"Important: On hydraulic and solid (mechanical) flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the inner spring must be removed during break-in. This allows the lifters to establish rotation and develop a good wear pattern. As soon as the engine fires, bring the rpm p to 2000 to 2500 during the first 30 minutes of operation. Slower engine speeds will not supply the camshaft with adequate amount of oil for the break-in period. The engine rpm may be varied periodically between 2000 and 2500 to direct oil splash different areas of he camshaft. After the 30-minute break-in period, change the oil and filter again to be sue all the contaminants and break-in lube are removed from the engine. The inner valve springs can now be replaced."

Directly from Comp Cams. Part #145
Revised 3/26/08

His cam is same as mine and many other members here. 31-255-5.

My question is, Why are we running dual springs on this cam?

 

Ill check those things , I will say my wires are a bit messy , they are laying on each other , and when I first put oil in the truck I put in Lucas oil engine break in oil with zinc . So I hope that helped the engine .

 

Another note , I am starting to think my cam may be wiped, I've used this cam in another engine before , when engine died I pulled this cam out and it's in my new engine Now, I do have dual valve springs and I did not remove the inner spring, upon start up the engine ran at 2000 rpm for about 10 minutes maybe less, then it went to idle , and when the engine runs there is a semi loud ticking or tapping , it's not my headers because I just changed them , and I have my misfire I can't seem to fix , and the engine has no power at all , runs rich and backfires, is all this symptoms of a wiped cam lobe?

Thanks !

 

Update ,
I was messing with the wires trying to keep them from touching and checking firing order , and the truck will start and run every time , it doesn't roar to life just cranks and slowly starts but it idles fine , well fine meaning the tach Is always at about 800, but the truck does shake a bit , rev it up and it's fine . It's when the revs are coming down that the rpms drop and surge. I also notice a somewhat loud clacking noise coming from the front of the engine , by the alternator and smog pump , idk what it is , but I do know that I have the hoses cut off the smog pump and I have only two of the three bolts holding the alternator bracket on , I'm thinking of just replacing the plugs and coil and see if it helps ,
Any thoughts ?