Actually, i didn't weld the R&P mounts on to the crossmember yet (they came separate). I need the upper A-arm hardware (T bolts and lock nuts were missing) and I would like to get the spindles in place before I weld in the steering rack brackets (in case they need to be cut). I haven't welded the column to the frame, just made a bracket to hold it into place when I fabricate the steering linkage. It does make sense that the cab will move so I shouldn't make it rigid though, good call AX.

Wally

 

Wally, that's a good looking truck, looks like someone kept it away from the salt!

Your sbc sure cleaned up nice too, the black paint with the polished valve covers just looks "right." The before and after is fun to look at, the poor thing looked like it had been submerged for a few years!

Those motor mounts were scary, I'm amazed they even held the motor up. I've seen worse though, you should see some of the stuff that shows up in the junkyards around here. The craziest I've seen is an early 2000s dodge body and frame u-bolted to a mid 70s ford frame with a 7.3 IDI just kind set in there... scary!!! Some of it just makes you wonder, there was a mid 2000s F350 king ranch with a jeep 4.0 in it that showed up a year or so ago.

Sam

 

Thanks Sam, the body is in really great condition, word is she sat in a barn for years. I looked around for a 302 but everything I found would have cost me a few thousand to complete. I bought that 350 really cheap. (buddy of mine owned it and I help him out with some of his projects, he told me to buy a dewalt drill set that was on sale at lowes for $100. and we'd be even). I heard it start and run before we took it out. With the transmission i bought and the parts for the 350, I have about $1K into it (that includes a lokar shifter too).
The weird engine make swap continued since the guy who bought my Ford 390 is putting it in an early 1980's Mercedes 450SL.

Wally

 

Too bad you are soo far away, I could have and would have made you a heck of a deal on either of the 302's with trannys that I have sitting on the shelf, I have to get rid of some of my extra pieces.

On another point, I kind of liked the engine mounts, they almost looked like springer mounts hehehe.

PS: very nice looking truck.

 

Made a little more progress this weekend on ol' red. The engine and transmission are now securely bolted into place. What we thought would take about an hour turned into about four hours when we ran into a stubborn torque convertor that was getting hung up on the transmission splines/shaft and wouldn't cooperate. After thirty minutes of frustration, we ended up pulling the pump out of the TH350 and then removing the shaft so we could wire wheel the surface rust off. Finally got it into both splines and found that our converter to flexplate bolts were too short. Once we bought a new set of bolts everything finally bolted together. The engine went into the engine compartment fairly easy. I also removed everything from the dash so we can get to the firewall for the brake pedal/master cylinder installation. Hoping to get the suspension and steering in place this week then we only have a million other things to finish up. Hey... were getting there.

wally

 

I ended up smoothing the two sides of my firewall because the firewall mounted MC wanted to go right on top the stiffening rib. The PO had chopped it up a previous attempt to get the clutch MC to sit flat. The truck had a kinda weird setup with the brake MC mounted under the floor with a stock pedal and the hydraulic clutch MC mounted on the firewall with a hanging pedal. it worked, but looked odd and felt odd when you drove it.
That's a pretty nice looking serpentine drive. Any idea where it's from and does it have a PS pump?

 

Hey AX, Next Saturday we'll see where the MC ends up on the firewall, might have to graft a smooth section in there as well, time will tell. The serpentine set up is from a '90 C2500 truck and the PS pump is towards the bottom on the drivers side (same area as the old sbc location). The alternator is on the opposite side as the old ones though. I replaced the water pump (didn't have the inlet on top for the heater core return, GM routed it directly into the radiator) and I also replaced the PS pump because the original had a third line that went to the break assist system. I like the serpentine set up but it's bulky looking compared to the old sbc v-style belt and bracket systems. I bought this engine for $100. (from a friend) so beggars can't be choosers, plus I heard it run before I removed it from the truck. I have an older sbc sitting on a stand in my garage that I might use for a future project. Start off needing one and end up with an extra.

Wally

 

Nice project. MY SBC sits a little right of center and is lined up with the 9" rear end so the drive shaft is parallel with the frame rails. Looks like your engine is centered in the frame rails. Is either way ok?

 

No problem from everything I've read. I'd say that if the drive shaft is parallel to the frame rails you're good. A lot of hot rodders narrow them a few inches to offset the center of them but offsetting the engine does the same thing. Even if it's not exactly centered, as long as the U-joint angle is less than 7 degrees, you're golden. A U-joint doesn't know if the angle it's running is vertical or horizontal.

Wally

 

As long as the driveshaft is angled in one plane or the other it's OK, what you don't want is for the engine, axle and driveshaft all in line in both the vertical and horizontal plane. The engine centerline must be parallel to the frame but it can be offset to either side or centered. Many times the engine is offset to one side or the other for clearance around the steering or the starter, or to line it up with the driveshaft tunnel (the tunnel is often offset to the pass side to give more room for pedals and driver's feet. Just don't angle it in the frame. The vertical alignment should be set so that the pinion angle is the same as the engine inclination. Most carbed engines are mounted so it tips down at the back about 3* (if you set a level on the carb mounting flange it should be level, the intake manifold is built at an angle) The nose of the rear axle should be tipped up the same amount when the truck is at rest on it suspension and tires.

 

More progress... pics below.

wally