Got my new ScangaugeII yesterday. Any ideas as to what parameters I should be looking at for this sputter problem?

 

I have nothing to add, just want to follow this post because I experienced the same issue as you did with the Bermuda Triangle. It went away, but I experienced what felt like unbalanced tires bouncing along the interstate. I varied my speed, and still had this constant bucking. It wasn't violent, just shook the whole truck for about a mile and then went away. While this was occurring, my Coolant Temps climbed to 198degrees. When the bucking stopped, my temps started falling back to 190 again. I am running 15w40 Dino Oil (I have been told to switch to Full Synthetic) and I have never cleaned my EGR. Maybe it's time.

Does this sound similar to yours? If not, sorry for hijacking, just want to see what the outcome is.

 

SGII ENTERING THE X-GAUGES FOR SETUP

UPDATED SYNC CODES FOR SGII

FSN 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3601 000100010000 FICM Sync (0=No, 1=Yes)

SYC 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3701 000100010000 Camshaft & Crankshaft in sync (1 = in sync, 0 = not in sync)

V-REF
TXD=07E0221155
RXF=046245110655
RXD=3010
MTH=006433330000
Barometric Pressure (PSI)
TXD: 07E0221442
RXF: 046285140642
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: BAR
Exhaust Back Pressure
TXD: 07E0221445
RXF: 046285140645
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: EBP
KO=103 (15) LI=110 (16) HI=110 (16) OR=55 - 607 (8 -88) kPA (PSI)
BOOST (BST)
TXD= 07E0221440
RXF= 046285140640
RXD= 3010
MTH= 01220320****
NAME=Boost (PSI).
In order to get the proper boost value enter the MAP XGauge. Get a reading
from it with the key in the on position but the engine off. Based on the reading change
the last 4 digits of the MTH value that corresponds to your reading in the table to the
right.
12.6 - - FF82
12.5 - - FF83
12.4 - - FF84
12.3 - - FF85
12.2 - - FF86
12.1 - - FF87
12.0 - - FF88
11.9 - - FF89
11.8 - - FF8A
14.0 -- FF74
14.1 -- FF73
14.2 -- FF72
14.3 -- FF71
14.4 -- FF70
14.5 -- FF6F
14.6 -- FF6E
14.7 -- FF6D
14.8 -- FF6C
14.9 -- FF6B
15.0 -- FF6A
FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP
KO=12.0 LI=13.5 HI=13.5 OR=10.5-15.5
FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) Your FMP should never dip below 45. If it does, your FICM is toast and needs repaired or replaced.
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP
KO=47 LI=47.5 HI=47.5 OR=40-52 (yes, that is what it says from Ford)
FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts, should not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)
TXD: 07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP
KO=12.0 LI=14.0 HI=14.0 OR=10.5-15.5
Inj. Control Press. (ICP / HPOP)
TXD: 07E0221446
RXF: 046205140646
RXD: 3010
MTH: 003900640000
NAM: ICP
KO=0 LI=625.5 HI=1400-1450 OR=0-4045

ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
MTH: 004827100000
NAM: ICV
KO=0.2 LI=1.0 HI=1.8 OR=.15-4.7 Volts

IPR Duty Cycle
TXD: 07E0221434
RXF: 046285140634
RXD: 3008
MTH: 0DCA03E8000A
NAM: IPR %
KO=14.84 LI=24 HI=40.60 OR=0-50 %
MAP and Volts should already be in the gauge.
MAP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E0220900
RXF: 046205090600
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000104000000
NAM: MPV
Note: This one seems a bit odd, but try it out and let me know if you need finer resolution. This one will go by whole numbers, but the range is something like +/- 32 Volts which seems weird for a sensor – they’re usually 0-5 volts
EP Volts (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AE
RXF: 0462451606AE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100800000
NAM: EPV
Note: This one may have weird readings if the values get to high, let me know.
Glow Plug Coil Time (Seconds)
TXD: 07E0221450
RXF: 046205140650
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100080000
NAM: GPT
Glow Plug Light On
TXD: 07E0221667
RXF: 046225160667
RXD: 3201
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: GPL
Glow Plug Lamp On Time (Seconds)
TXD: 07E0221451
RXF: 046205140651
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100080000
NAM: GPT
MAF Voltage (volts)
TXD: 07E0221177
RXF: 046245110677
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100250000
NAM: MFV

 

Not sure what to make of that list, Blade35. I can only show 4 gauges at a time. The boost pressure correction list is helpful. The corrections I got off the Scangauge website only went down to 12.8 psi, but I live at 6300 ft and do most of my driving in the mountains up to 8000 ft. I'll put the 11.8 psi correction factor in.

Here's my uneducated guess at what to look at:
Fuel pressure
boost
oil temp
coolant temp

 

You want:

ICP psi
ICP volts
FICM main
FICM synch
Cam/crank synch
IPR %
ECT
EOT
Volts
Maps
Baro
EBP
EBP volts
VGT %
Boost
Mass Fuel Desired

Josh

 

At what point do you measure these (example Idling, KOEO, cruising 55mph?) and should he post all of those readings to discover this random sputtering/misfire/rough running?

 

Normal diagnosis would be koeo, at idle and 2500 rpm.

As for Scangauge he'll just have to watch the PIDs as the sputtering occurs.

With DashBoss you could record your entire trip and either look at the graphs on the device or email the records and observe the abnomality in Excel.

Also with Dashboss and Torque you have the ability to view multiple PIDs at once.

Josh

 

Dashboss. Man, that sucks. I should have bought that instead of the Scan Gauge II.

 

This is the gist of my original question. I've got a total of 4 PID's to watch in real time, and am looking for advice on which ones to have running. I even posted my guess.

 

With only 4 I would likely setup:

ICP
IPR
EBP
Boost unless there is a dash boost gauge

 

The SGII will hold more than 4 but that is all you can view at a time unless
you dasy-chain the SGII.

The PCM doen not watch the fuel pressure so there is no way to do that with
the SGII. For that your going to need a separate gauge.

Sean

 

Made the trip on Friday to the wilderness. I was ready; scangaugeII set up with ICP, BST (corrected for altitude), EBP, and EOT. Of course, no sputtering, it ran great all weekend. Argh!

Nice to see all the gauges I was missing. ICP maxed out about 3700 during the trip (is that in psi? - I had no idea there was so much pressure in that tubing). The oil and coolant were usually within 15 degrees of each other, and the tranny temp was usually 20-25 degrees lower. I was surprised that all the temperatures were highest doing 75 on the interstate vs. climbing an 8 percent grade for a thousand feet.

 

yes its 3700psig
fuel pressure at the tip of the nozzel is apro 7.5x icp

 

On a long trip last weekend, the rig was doing the same sputter routine. I was on the interstate this time, and after every downhill the 6.0L would sputter for a few seconds on the uphill. I did notice the ICP climbing from ~2700 to 3400 during the sputter episode, then go back down. I got no CEL's or other warnings from the ScangaugeII.

Is this just some bad fuel? It was fine on the way out, just crappy after refueling (but I had put about 150 miles on the new fuel before it started misbehaving). If I drained the fuel/water separator, would I see water, or does that eventually work it's way out? I didn't feel like stopping on the interstate to fiddle with it at the time.

 

Do you run Diesel Kleen or a diesel fuel additive?


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