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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 05:52 PM
  #16  
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turbogus
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From: Albany, Good Ol' USA
Originally Posted by Rovernut
Yup, that's why I quoted your caveat.

My point was good crimp or good soldered will work. Poor technique on either is bad.
That said, NASA, among others, actually prefers crimped.
"Crimping is an efficient and highly reliable method to assemble and terminate conductors, and typically provides a stronger, more reliable termination method than that achieved by soldering."

The guy saying crimping = bad is just bull.
He may have meant those el cheapo made in China ones too. From his page though I did get one of these;



and using these type of connectors (I got these from NAPA) they're fail safe especially when I solder over them.





This was how I rewired parts of my PDB for 12 gauge.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 07:14 PM
  #17  
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Medic13
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While I appreciated the read and the humour in the contradictions, most of what I read I already knew, and thanks to Rovernut for supporting my understanding on charging (high amps are not evil while high volts are for a battery)...I am hoping we can return to our previously scheduled topic .

I charged the truck for the night with the maintainer and when I started it up in the morning everything came on and seemed to work well...until I hit a railway crossing and the accessories shut off...then came back on again when I hit a pothole and that was it for blips for the day. Today I've had multiple on and off's again, with a few occurrences of my windshield wipers activating...sort of...without the switch being on. They would go up, stop, and then make their way back down in a jerky motion like the motor is being pulsed.

I'm not sure where to look, whether I've go a short somewhere, the connections for the relay in the panel are bad, there's another relay that's malfunctioning of if it's a power problem?

My batteries are just over 2 year old Exide Sub Zeros (1,000ca 850cca) & my Edge is showing me voltage of 13.2-13.8. I have also just added a Noco Genius G3500 smart charger which I've mounted under the hood.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 08:54 AM
  #18  
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turbogus
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From: Albany, Good Ol' USA
If it's a relay issue, a pecuilarity of the relay portion of the Ford PDB I've been working on is that the red colored hold fast frame looks rather appealing, actually stands off the relays a couple of mm from the connectors. This I found while testing circuitry for the Merc dual e-fans, headlight circuits, fog, driving/spotlight and other, with the red cover removed the relays had much better contact.





Perhaps Ford expected the cover to hold the relays down into their sockets but I think they would have better engineering than that.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 10:39 AM
  #19  
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Rovernut
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From: Georgia
Intermittent faults like that are a royal PITA to sort out, as I'm sure you're finding out.
My first step would probably be to turn on the things that are dying and wiggle the relays from the side (so you're not pushing them in) to see if you find the offending one. If you can get to them maybe even inserting something plastic between the relay and the base to see if any are really easy to break the circuit on, simulate over the road jostling as it were.

ps. sorry about the hijack.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 03:38 PM
  #20  
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turbogus
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From: Albany, Good Ol' USA
Originally Posted by Rovernut
Intermittent faults like that are a royal PITA to sort out, as I'm sure you're finding out.
My first step would probably be to turn on the things that are dying and wiggle the relays from the side (so you're not pushing them in) to see if you find the offending one. If you can get to them maybe even inserting something plastic between the relay and the base to see if any are really easy to break the circuit on, simulate over the road jostling as it were.

ps. sorry about the hijack.
...or even do away with the red hold-fast, if yours is so configured.
 
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