Need engine and towing advice.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
A few words on stability:
I would think a DRW truck is going to be your best, safest bet (F350). You will have the extra track width/second set of tires in the duals, plus the overload springs on the rear axle stock. Once you get enough load on the rear end to engage the overload springs you have a pretty rock solid towing platform.
When I was driving commercially I drove an F350 DRW (2005MY, 6L, crew cab). I can remember one night coming home from a run. I don't remember where I was, but I remember I didn't know the road. It happened to be raining and I was changing highways - the one I was on went over top the one I was getting on. The interchange was a classic clover pattern. I saw the sign for the exit, passed the 1/2 mile sign, and went a bit, then started slowing down. I had a hard time seeing in the weather conditions and I thought I was playing it safe slowing down. Well, I wasn't going slow enough and the exit hit me FAST. I had a car up over top the bed on the top of the trailer and one on the bottom (wedge style) and had 2 choices: pull the turn or go in the ditch. Long story short, the truck pulled the turn but it wasn't very comfortable. That was a lot of weight and a lot of G's to be sticking the turn.
You may not think you need the DRW, but there could be a time in your travels that it could make a big difference.
That having been said, a SRW F350 will also come stock with overload springs. My truck now has them (2011 F350 SRW) and they work pretty well. I have not towed bed-mounted hitch trailers with it, but have had a couple thousand lbs + in the truck. The truck holds weight fine, but is noticeably more "rolly" in turns and rough roads than I remember the DRW was. The SRW rides a heck of a lot better empty, though.
On the F250 side - modern 250's are too soft in stock form in my opinion. If you go that route you have a few options to fix that - the best would probably be the airbag systems as you can customize the pressure for the load you are carrying to "level" the rig. There are "add-a-leaf" systems out there, as well as converting the spring system to that of an F350.
Another thought is to know your rig. It will be like riding a bike after a while, but take your first trips easy and slow. Hook everything up and take a few short treks around - get on some local country roads, hit some hills, do a little bit of in-town driving so you get the feel for things. If you end up with airbags on the rear axle play with the settings.
What ever you end up with, enjoy it! It sounds like you are in for a lot of fun on the road. I hope I can do that some day too. I'd like to spend some time in the big national parks and get up through the Sequoia National Park to see the Redwoods.
I would think a DRW truck is going to be your best, safest bet (F350). You will have the extra track width/second set of tires in the duals, plus the overload springs on the rear axle stock. Once you get enough load on the rear end to engage the overload springs you have a pretty rock solid towing platform.
When I was driving commercially I drove an F350 DRW (2005MY, 6L, crew cab). I can remember one night coming home from a run. I don't remember where I was, but I remember I didn't know the road. It happened to be raining and I was changing highways - the one I was on went over top the one I was getting on. The interchange was a classic clover pattern. I saw the sign for the exit, passed the 1/2 mile sign, and went a bit, then started slowing down. I had a hard time seeing in the weather conditions and I thought I was playing it safe slowing down. Well, I wasn't going slow enough and the exit hit me FAST. I had a car up over top the bed on the top of the trailer and one on the bottom (wedge style) and had 2 choices: pull the turn or go in the ditch. Long story short, the truck pulled the turn but it wasn't very comfortable. That was a lot of weight and a lot of G's to be sticking the turn.
You may not think you need the DRW, but there could be a time in your travels that it could make a big difference.
That having been said, a SRW F350 will also come stock with overload springs. My truck now has them (2011 F350 SRW) and they work pretty well. I have not towed bed-mounted hitch trailers with it, but have had a couple thousand lbs + in the truck. The truck holds weight fine, but is noticeably more "rolly" in turns and rough roads than I remember the DRW was. The SRW rides a heck of a lot better empty, though.
On the F250 side - modern 250's are too soft in stock form in my opinion. If you go that route you have a few options to fix that - the best would probably be the airbag systems as you can customize the pressure for the load you are carrying to "level" the rig. There are "add-a-leaf" systems out there, as well as converting the spring system to that of an F350.
Another thought is to know your rig. It will be like riding a bike after a while, but take your first trips easy and slow. Hook everything up and take a few short treks around - get on some local country roads, hit some hills, do a little bit of in-town driving so you get the feel for things. If you end up with airbags on the rear axle play with the settings.
What ever you end up with, enjoy it! It sounds like you are in for a lot of fun on the road. I hope I can do that some day too. I'd like to spend some time in the big national parks and get up through the Sequoia National Park to see the Redwoods.
Sam
New User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I too agree with the post that advise selecting the 5th wheel or TT first. Your entering a whole new ballgame when you start learning about GVWR (pin weight)' Rear axle weight ratings, and the combined vehicle WR. Nothing worse in my opinion than figuring out after, that you bought the wrong truck. As you shop for campers, especially with your wife, your choices keep growing larger and larger after you see what's out there. You'll hear things like "you know, the second bathroom was really nice...."
Anyway I was talking to a guy picking up his new 5th wheel with the truck he bought used 3months earlier and when attached it basically lifted the front wheels off the ground. I wanted to take a picture but felt too bad for the guy. PS it was a Dodge.
With a 5th wheel, for longer distance towing nothing beats the diesel.
(long time lurker)
Anyway I was talking to a guy picking up his new 5th wheel with the truck he bought used 3months earlier and when attached it basically lifted the front wheels off the ground. I wanted to take a picture but felt too bad for the guy. PS it was a Dodge.
With a 5th wheel, for longer distance towing nothing beats the diesel.
(long time lurker)
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: Shalimar, FL
There is nothing wrong with "more than you need truck." I recently purchased my diesel last year with the intent of not having to purchase a truck again. She had about 76000 miles on her, and to some, she is not broken in yet. They say "half million mile truck," if you keep up with the maintenance... You just never know.. I have had odd jobs-an opportunity to work my truck-and man she didn't disappoint..
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Pahoa, HI
Two things.
First off, here on the west coast, o with diesel. You lose too much power in the higher elevations in the mountains, especially towing heavy.
Second, don't even think about a 250 if you are buying the truck first. Both the truck and RV dealers will say you're fine, but you aren't. For the small difference in price, get the 350. I've been down that road.
But I strongly suggest you get the trailer first, use GVW for the loaded weight of the trailer and 20% of that for the pin weight. You can then use rear axle weight or cargo weight of the truck to pick the size you need, depending on your comfort zone. A 2010 F250 XLT LB diesel 4x4 has a 1920 LB. Cargo capacity, FYI.
Other than that, get what you like and enjoy your retirement, I know I am!
First off, here on the west coast, o with diesel. You lose too much power in the higher elevations in the mountains, especially towing heavy.
Second, don't even think about a 250 if you are buying the truck first. Both the truck and RV dealers will say you're fine, but you aren't. For the small difference in price, get the 350. I've been down that road.
But I strongly suggest you get the trailer first, use GVW for the loaded weight of the trailer and 20% of that for the pin weight. You can then use rear axle weight or cargo weight of the truck to pick the size you need, depending on your comfort zone. A 2010 F250 XLT LB diesel 4x4 has a 1920 LB. Cargo capacity, FYI.
Other than that, get what you like and enjoy your retirement, I know I am!
New User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Had an 04 250 cc Lariat 6.0 Egr cooler went out lucky it was under warr.
very common problems. MPG 12-14 empty 9-10 towing T.T. 8K.
The King Ranch 04 They did not make a 6.7 engine. Still the 6.0 Look at you tube 6.0 engine.
very common problems. MPG 12-14 empty 9-10 towing T.T. 8K.
The King Ranch 04 They did not make a 6.7 engine. Still the 6.0 Look at you tube 6.0 engine.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 501
Likes: 1
From: Pacific NW
If purchasing, err on the side of getting "More" truck. I decided to buy a 1-ton SRW truck because I didn't want to play the "Upgrade" game. So I picked the highest capacity truck that I could comfortably drive around in town and use for recreation. So it ended up as a crew cab 6' bed. I don't like driving anything longer and I won't need a dually given space limitations for the potential trailers that I'm looking at (generally campgrounds with smaller spaces, boondocking and storage at my home). I upgraded to a larger truck because after scouting all the trailers at all the RV shows, my wife and I found ourselves drifting to a specific size of trailer and my F-150 wasn't going to cut it. Also, when selecting your ride, make sure that it will handle the capacity of the potential trailers you're planning to tow. I believe the F-250 and F-350 SRW trucks have the same "Tow" rating, but the real difference is their rated payload. Could be a thousand or two difference. Payload is very important for 5th wheel pin weights.
Also, there's plenty of debate in regards to the merit of the VIN sticker on the side of the door and if that can lead to a liability issue down the road. I just wanted to side-step the issue altogether. Worse case scenario, you change out the rear suspension to an air suspension type deal to smooth out the ride, but you already have the max specs from the mfr.
Also, there's plenty of debate in regards to the merit of the VIN sticker on the side of the door and if that can lead to a liability issue down the road. I just wanted to side-step the issue altogether. Worse case scenario, you change out the rear suspension to an air suspension type deal to smooth out the ride, but you already have the max specs from the mfr.
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