On my way home tonight, with no other symptom at all, the "check engine" light came on. No sound difference, no vibration difference, no "limp mode"... nothing!

When I got home, as cheap people do, I came in to the forum and searched for a way to read the codes without an OBD II reader. I found my way to a great description of dealer test mode on the odometer with a listing (granted, for a 2003) that showed that DTC readout was included. Out to the truck I went.

I followed the instructions and found my way into test mode. I saw the gauges sweep, I saw the light bulbs light, I saw a few things...and then... I saw:

DTC None

Somewhere in my memory, I recall hearing that Ford built in a timed release "nagging nanny" notification (which, if I recall correctly) that shows up as a Check Engine light. It is meant to remind you of some major maintenance that you should have. Well, this truck is a 2007, bought from AC Collins Ford as an "AS-IS No warranty" with 111,500 miles on it.

It is now at about 121,700 which is just a little over twice 60,000 which I THINK is where I heard that "nag code" got thrown.

I do not know the correct terminology here but does anyone know if this is correct? Is there indeed a "code that gets thrown" just to remind me of a maintenance event? Or should I be re-thinking this?

Thanks in advance!
Bob

 

They did that back in the 80's. You probably have a problem with the EVAP system. Need to find out what the code is and go from there.

 

UPDATE: Well, apparently it is true. The odomoeter based dignostics ... when they say DTCs NONE.... it isn't true. Autozone pulled a P0132 code off of the PCM. So it is a high reading on Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 Sensor.

The easy thing to do would be believe that it is the sensor, buy a new one and put it on. But I am usually the one that gets "stuck" by the other cases. So I think, what I am going to do is pull both upstream O2 sensors, swap them, and see if the code moves to Bank 2.

Does anyone see anything wrong with that idea?

 

Nothing wrong with swapping sensors, I have done it many times to diagnose.

 

Uh, you do know that procedure is for retrieving the instrument cluster codes, don't you? Has nothing to do with the PCM or the dozen or so other modules on the truck. So basically what you did was verify there was nothing wrong with your instrument cluster, nothing else.

Make sure you use a HEGO sensor socket or a six-point line wrench when removing the sensor. They tend to get rusted in and can be extremely difficult to remove without a torch to heat the bung up. But, every once in a while you get lucky and they come out easily.

 

Freeze Off and the flex head style line wrenches work miracles on an 02 sensor.

 

Fire Me, thank you for that. I am way off studying OBD II at this point with one of the bluetooth scan tool dongles headed my way. I didn't realize that there was such a division of "responsibility" in these things but, indeed it appears there are.

Anyway, my code went away after a couple of days but it has since returned. So I will be addressing it when that scanner gets here... which should be today or maybe tomorrow.

I have had someone tell me to spray PB Blaster or something like that on them all a day or two before doing the work to help them loosen up.

I appreciate all of the responses!

 

Fire Me, thank you for that. I am way off studying OBD II at this point with one of the bluetooth scan tool dongles headed my way. I didn't realize that there was such a division of "responsibility" in these things but, indeed it appears there are.

Anyway, my code went away after a couple of days but it has since returned. So I will be addressing it when that scanner gets here... which should be today or maybe tomorrow.

I have had someone tell me to spray PB Blaster or something like that on them all a day or two before doing the work to help them loosen up.

I appreciate all of the responses!