Truck died; before it did, sounded like fuel starvation.

Changed top of engine fuel filter, which was a little dirty but not bad, did not solve problem.

HPOP doesn't look like it exploded or anything. Slight weeping around the plug that goes bad, and a very small amount of oil dampness in the valley.

What do I look at next? Is there another fuel filter back near the tank?

 

There is not another filter except the screens in the tank that require you to drop the tank.

When u turn the key on, did the wts light come on? if u open the fuel drain on the filter housing, do u get a nice flow of fuel from the housing?

 

There is a screen in the tank. That could be clogged. Drop the tank to check, its not uncommon.

Did you have more than 1/4 tank when it died?

How is your oil level? Low oil will kill your truck too.

If you can check ICP and IPR values. An IPR failure is also possible.

 

you might check left inside frame rail for a prepump filteradd on unless your original owner.

 

When you tried to restart, did the fuel filter bowl refill with fuel? If not may fuel pump has gone bad.

 

You looked for oil outside of the engine and in the valley, but did you check the oil level and verify there was oil in the HPOP via the Allen head plug in top?

Easiest way to verify fuel pump and filter is to open the fuel bowl cap and drain the fuel out, then have someone turn on the key and watch it fill back up. If it does not fill back up, make sure there is power to the pump and that the pump is running when the key is turned on. If it is, then before dropping the tank, you can blow air into the return line (open the cap first) and it should help clear the screens momentarily. If that solves the problem, you need to drop the tank and complete the hutch mod.

Also, as mentioned above, if the tank is below a quarter full, you may have a broken pickup foot. Fill the tank to Atleast half way and try again.

And remember while trying to get it started back up to keep the batteries tended to. If it drops below 10.5 volts (iirc) while cranking, the idm will not fire the injectors.

Now if all of the fuel and oil checks out ok, it could be a loose nut on the IPR, a bad CPS, a Vref short, a bad pcm, or a number if other possibilities. We'll walk you through them, but lets cover the easy stuff first.

Btw, if you have a chip, turn the key off and remove the chip prior to any further diagnostics. Again, turn the key off before removing the chip if you have one.

 

Appreciate the tips. Was OOT this weekend but will tackle this tomorrow evening. I'll go through the troubleshooting as outlined above and will post my results.

 

Fuel bowl does not refill.

There is some kind of pump in the engine compartment above the passenger wheel that goes on when I hit the ignition, but that's not connected to the fuel bowl that I can see.

Assuming I need to replace the pump, next step is to figure out exactly what I'm replacing. Looks like the part I need is part number 8, below?

 

My mistake. Looks like the lift pump is on the frame rail. Motorcraft PF-1.

Correct?

 

The pump you hear in the engine compartment is the vacuum pump. The fuel pump is inside the driver side frame rail right about the location if the steering wheel. I wouldn't change the pump just yet. You can Hotwire power to it to see if it comes on, or test it with a meter/test light to see if there is power.

Once you confirm power with no pump coming on, then you can replace the pump. If it is actually coming on but pumping air, you'll need to check the pickup in the tank.

 

If there is no power to the pump, or if it works with the "Hotwire" (jumper wore from battery) but not without it, it could be a fuse or a bad PCM.

And clay at riffraff has the fuel pump, but the one you posted looks like it's right.

 

Turned out to be the fuel pump. Got a new Bosch unit from Riffraff for about half the price of the one on Amazon I posted above.

Pretty easy install. The rear connection to the fuel line from the tank was a little tricky, though.