Back in early June I located a 1979 F250 SuperCab 4X4. We drove 150 miles to make the purchase. Got it bought and the brakes went out shortly after taking delivery. So, we limped into a Firestone store and had them work on the brakes and they had a difficult time locating the correct master cylinder, but were able to replace the front calipers and disc brake pads. They couldn't get into the rear hubs. At the time I did not think it a big deal once we got it home, because we were going to do a frame off restoration. Plus, we were going to replace the cab with another once we located one. We bought a rust free California '77 2WD F-350 SuperCab with a very good cab on it to go to the F250.

I then got catalogs from LMC Truck and Bronco Graveyard.

In my defense I was literally sporting a 22 month old continuous migraine headache to the right side of my head. This was from an old injury from my days in the Navy. Surgery 7 weeks ago today was a miracle IMO. I digress.

Anyway, yesterday I was looking at putting my parts list together and I figured I had better break my VIN down, just in case. So, it turns out the truck was initially built as an F100 4X4 SuperCab with 400 engine and 4 speed manual tranny. Yet, it has the cab designation F-250 on it. The axles are the heavy duty type on F-250/F-350 trucks.

It looks like the only thing original on the rusty old truck is the 400 engine. The bed is not original to the truck, as the gas tank does not have a door flap, but has the gas cap on the side of the bed like the 1976 and prior have.

I guess it really doesn't matter now. I have the donor truck and will get it all done up as a restoral and reassemble the left over truck and sell it as a farm truck.

The final product will require the title to be changed from Pick Up to "Assembled Vehicle" here in Arkansas.

Now I just have figure out what I have for axles, transfer case, etc. before ordering parts. The rear brakes will be converted to disc, too.

Looks like we got lemons, but I am determined to turn it into nice sweet cold lemonade on a hot day in Arkansas.

 

Don't go by the door mounted VIN (warranty plate). It's very common to switch doors and not change the warranty plate. You need to check the frame VIN. A Scab 4WD F250 VIN should start "X26".
Sounds like someone has swapped either the driver's door or the cab.
Look for the frame VIN on the top right (passenger) side frame rail. It can be located anywhere between the firewall and radiator support but most commonly found about inline with the alternator. Sometimes they're lightly stamped or covered with years of grime so it's difficult to find/see/read. Bring degreaser and a wire brush.....and patience.
If you find the VIN post it and we can decode it for you.

 

Mike,
Thanks for the reply. I'm still wearing a neck collar/brace, so will have to wait for my son to come out and look at the frame. I just can't get bent over enough. Based on visual check I'm reasonably certain it has Dana 60 front and rear. The title VIN is: X14SKEC7568 and that matches the door and the door frame.

I'm half way wondering if it wouldn't be just as easy to convert the F-350 over to 4WD.

 

make your Scab an F350 now :P That's what I'm doing. Swapped all the 1ton axles/springs, putting a 460 in it, might as well leave the F150 badges off and put the F350 ones on.

Of course I wouldn't ever try to hide the fact that it's "on paper" an F150.

Once you start getting into the Scab, you won't care what number designation it has, you'll just want to drive it. Search for other Scabs on the net, that will motivate you to fixing her up.

post up pix and we'll help

 

Brian,
I agree. Really doesn't matter. Once we mix two trucks up here the title becomes for an "Assembled Vehicle." I would never represent something what what it wasn't. I just do not roll that way at all in life. I figure we have to stand up and be counted in the end and I have enough to account for as it is.

I intend to build this truck to last me until I depart the planet and pass it on to my yet to be born in the next month grandson.

This truck will not be badged on the cowling as an F100, F250 or F350. We will keep FORD on the hood, though.

Now it is time to make a decision. Is it difficult to convert a 2WD into a 4WD. The F350 has a 460 in it and the steering gear box, etc. are in the way of the exhaust system. Plus, it would require a Divorced transfer case which I have no clue what a "Divorced" transfer case is or how to go about getting one.

 

Brian,
I just went through your thread on your truck. Very nice and impressive. You did much of what we want to do. It pretty much depends on how much time my son can spend with me on the project. Unfortunately I can't do a lot of what I once could and I have to depend on him for help. I do have a 40X60 shop and that will help a lot. I am thinking I want to just buy a new wiring harness from LMC or Bronco Graveyard since the wiring is old and on both trucks there are crazy extra wiring looking like spider webs to figure out.

I believe I have plenty money set aside to get through the chassis and have the engine spruced up, tranny seals and transfer case seals done. I'm going with polyurethane bushings where possible. All rubber seals in the cab and doors replace, new dash pad, door panels, rubber floor matting, and reupholster the seat.

We plan to go with a tu-tone paint job with Bright Red as the primary and Gun Metal Gray for the center color.

We're running Goodyear Wrangler 37" Hummer tires.

 

nice. I'd avoid the 2wd - 4wd plan. Yes it can be done, no it's not "terribly" involved, but it isn't bolt on and no offense but you don't seem like you are a tech guy. Build the scab, maybe swap the 460 into it and have you something usable, plenty of room and plenty of power. my 2 scents

My truck has taken a while, but I'm doing it right by my standards. It's going to be the truck I've always wanted and I'll keep it forever.

My friends truck is almost the colors you are describing for yours. I'll see if he'll send me a pic.

 

Brian,
Absolutely no offense taken it has been 40 years since I really messed with cars and trucks. Back in my high school days we worked on our cars and trucks all the time. Then I got away from it and trucks got to be loaded with electronics and I gave up and take them to the Ford garage now. A mini-stroke in May and spine/neck surgery in June have me slowed down. My son ran a major Ford dealership's body shop for ten years and he restores Mustangs. This is really a project for the two of us to do together. My first new truck that I bought was a 1975 F150 and first new 4X4 was a 1976 F150. I would like to build a truck that is as good or better than new. It will not be a show truck, but I am hoping for it to be really nice. It will be a daily driver.

I have an 2009 F150 4X4 SuperCrew Platinum that I bought new and just turned 27K on it. Being retired I do not put many miles on them other than to go get coffee daily or my longer trips to the VA hospital.

I'm leaning toward keeping the 400 and have it built by a guy that specializes in them. While at it I'll have the tranny and transfer case looked over and seals replaced as needed.

 

Here is a little tech info on the 2wd to 4wd change over. This a cut and paste from a very experienced FTE/Ford person.

There is nothing nuts and bolts about a 4wd conversion, there is not a thing that is bolt on or swappable.
The engine cross members are entirely different, and this means that if an un molested truck is what you are after, it will be impossible to create one with a 2wd platform.
The 2wd will have to be lifted quite a way to clear the front diff.
2wd trucks are coil sprung and most F250 4wd's are leaf sprung. None of the suspension items are even close to the same, so you will be fabricating or modifying some original 4wd stuff to work.
Steering systems are entirely different as well, so you will be upgrading that too.
My last conversion with leafs ran me several thousand dollars, and that was with the work that I performed for free.
The difference in sale values between a 4wd and 2wd are minimal, and the 4wd conversion is hardly justifiable.
How far away are you looking? I pick up F250 4x4's for reasonable money. Consider the cost of shipping, and then consider buying a west coast truck with no rust, and I can guarantee that you will be time and money ahead.
Well the frames are similar, with a few exceptions. The frame horns are slightly different, and the frame widths aft of the cab ar different from 73 to 77 trucks. The frame rise is also slightly different, but this is not a show stopper and does not make much difference one the fabrication begins.
Not that the important question is whether or not you will be using a coils springs or a leaf spring. It is possible to install a 78/9 radius arm and suspension. Not a big deal really, and with a standard cab this is reasonable. Not quite as easy with a super cab and or crew cab.
The 2wd frames are not cut for the shackle pivot, and they do not have the provisions for a spring hanger, but again, this is not a deal breaker. Installing a pivot is just a tedious process. Accuracy is key, but I am not telling you anything that you do not already know.
Ok, so next is the transfer case. You have two choices, Install a married case, and this requires the proper transmission. Might find some difficulty making or modifying an output shaft to accommodate the early C6 and a married transfer case. So then the next option is to find a divorced transfer case, and install this. You will have to make up a cross member, but then you will have to get creative with the shifter linkage. See the 4wd trans will have an adapter or tailshaft with a pivot for a typical 205 shifter.
Fabrication is the only limiting factor here.
Next and final factor will be the speedo. See your speedo works from the trans, so that being the case, you will have to get a speed reference form the t-case. If you do not, the speedo will read twice as fast when you put the case in low range.

As mentioned the steering box will have to be relocated, and the truck will require some lift. That engine crossmember has limited clearance so you will be looking at some lift to even clear it. The other option would be to remove it and replace it with a tubular unit.

This is a heck of a project. Not unreasonable, but a project none the less.
2500 bucks for a 2wd might get expensive. I paid 1300 bucks for a 4wd 75 last year, and it was already 4wd with 38" tires, and a strong 460, A/c, and plenty of goodies. I have made these conversions, and can tell you that it is a chore.

I would also get some Dennis Carpenter, National Parts Depot and Orange County Trucks catalogs.

Check out this thread... and go to thread reply #8 and enjoy some reading.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...mpilation.html

 

Thanks for the info. My son pretty much said the same thing to me when I approached him with it. We'll stick with the 4WD truck and make the F350 the donor.

 

Agree with others. Check frame vin. It may be farther back under the cab. 2wd to 4wd is ugly. If you really have a Dana 60 front, I'd say you made out well and didn't get screwed. They are hard to come by and expensive. You can make a really nice truck out of the two. This forum will be invaluable to you as you start that adventure.

 

Now I might be wrong but somewhere I read that the f150 and f250 super cabs had the exact same frame just different axles?? Correct me if I'm wrong. So really it is a f250 just not from factory. Idk I would think the f100 would be the same? Just thought I would put that out there.

 

On a F150 (1/2 ton 5 lug) reg cab you will have a coil spring and radius arm suspension. 2wd or 4wd

But I have seen a 4wd super cab with a leaf spring front suspension like a standard F250, but it still has the 5 lug 1/2 ton axle...?

 

The frames look identical but they are different. They have a different "modulus" that's engineering speak for they're stronger.
The different frame modulus are listed in the Ford parts catalog.

 

Sorry for being off topic but is there any way to tell by looking or measuring. Or is it up to just finding the vin??