I'd go for the 67 as well. The 66 would have a divorced t-case, and a closed knuckle front end, not to mention the manual steering. These aren't difficult things to overcome, but the 67 doesn't have these issues. The mated t-case along with a most likely high pinion D44 gives a much better front driveline clearance, even if it's the low pinion it'll be better than the 66.
It'll also have a better frame, and 12years less abuse on it.

 

Yeah, the 67 without a doubt. The 67 will be alot easier to drive.

 

Do you have any other pictures of the 66? For some reason the side trim does not look right. I would love to see some more pictures of the 66.
1) Better pictures of the side trim.
2) Pictures of the inside of cab.
3) Pictures of engine and engine bay.
4) Core support and cab mount areas.
5) Pictures of underside of bed.

Same pictures for the 67

Are they both SAFE to drive? You really want to focus on the safety of each vehicle.

A vehicle could look nice and be appealing to the eye, however if mounting areas are in bad shape, or there's rust eating away at the mounts, add the cost to fixing those areas.

Have you driven each one?

Which ever one you choose, if it's drivable then enjoy it while you figure out what you really want to do with it.

I definitely want to see more pictures of the 66

 

Here's what I have so far of both of them. I also have a low quality video of the 67. This is all of course sight-unseen and going by what the owners tell me. The 66 I can go check out easily as it's 10 minutes away. The 67 is 4 hours away so I'm trying to gather as much information as I can before I commit to the drive to look at it.

1966:






Craigslist description:

up for grabs is my 1966 ford f100 4x4. she runs great and honestly id drive her anywhere. I've taken it to Mississippi and back and drive it around town all the time. starts first try every time. paint was done a few years ago but shows some rust coming through again where it wasn't done right. (very minimal rust) 33inch mud tires were new about a year ago and also have the original chrome rims with street 33 inch tires on them that will be included. title is clean and in hand. the only thing this entire truck is missing is the rear bumper. everything else is all original besides paint of course. interior is in perfect shape. could use power steering cost about $500. the truck is geared very low so I skip 1st gear and go to second. its got a 4 speed in it and it cruses pretty good. the motor is a 351 cleveland. very strong and reliable motor. I found a 351 motor for sale that was redone and was selling for 9000. its a must have style motor from what I understand. this motor and truck only have 116,000 original miles on it. new battery, plugs, wires, dist cap, alternator, belts, four barrel holly carb, chrome air filter, dual exhaust with chrome tips ect. dash has never been cut for a radio or doors for speakers. all buttons and handles are still in tac inside the cab. seat is in perfect shape. and seat belt were added already

1967:



No description on the listing but I've been talking with the guy for weeks

 

The 66 does not have trim obviously, my concern is this statement;
"paint was done a few years ago but shows some rust coming through again where it wasn't done right. (very minimal rust)" I'd want to really check out the rust issues with this truck. If it's coming through AGAIN why wasn't it done right before getting it painted? Paint hides a lot of rust so does bondo. I would check out both trucks especially the 66 for rust.
Cab supports, Radiator Support, Drip Rail, lower fender areas. Bed floor, closest to cab.
I'd crawl under both trucks with an ice pick or awl, checking for rust. Look for any patches that might have been done, then look at the underside of patch to see that it was done correctly. Putting a patch over rust only hides the rust, in the mean time the rust is still eating away at the metal.
Treat both trucks the same before committing to buy.
The 66 looks like it has an after market front bumper on it. It is to straight doesn't follow the lower valance.

 

IMHO after seeing these pics the 1967 hands down. 67 looks better. Undersides lot better and more of a pleasure to drive. The 66's dash would get old on me quickly while driving.

 

Yeah that potential rust is what concerns me. What some of my buddies are concerned about is the "frankentruck", aka the 67 body on a 79 frame being done poorly and/or having a reduction in value because of it. I'm not particularly buying either truck to be a show truck nor do I have intentions on selling it for a large profit in 20 years. I'm looking for a fun weekend truck that can also haul a little butt if I want it to. It sounds like, assuming I like the look of the build, the 67 is going to be my best bet. Would leave some extra cash for other expenses as well.

 

Both trucks do look pretty good. Both have their pros and cons. If I was in your shoes, I'd be looking more at the '67. Easier to get parts, newer driveline... Where's the mirrors?? Cons on the '66: rust coming back, pass side needs a cab corner, tailgate is already showing rust, where is the front driveshaft?? and if you ever take it off road and come down hard on the front end, are those tires going to do damage to the front fenders?? Now as for calling a truck "Frankintruck" both fall under that catagory. When did twin I beam badges get put on a truck that looks to have a solid axle under it??? Was this a 4X2 made into a 4X4?? Or does this truck have a different frame under it as well?? Running the VIN will tell you a lot.

 

Good eye on the cab corner. Looks like passenger side door needs some TLC on the bottom part.
Get the VIN from both vehicles, post them here and we can tell you what there suppose to be.
Also check into what DMV requires to register either one of these trucks.
You might have to find another truck.
If the 67 needs to be registered as a 79 and the owner has not registered it then you can guess why (Be careful with these deals) Same thing applies to the 66

 

F10yka60451 is the vin on the 67. To me that's a 79 vin but he says that's the vin on the title and that its registered as a straight 67. Don't have the vin on the 66 yet, waiting for a reply

 

Here's what I get,
F10 = F100 2wd
Y = 352 8 cyl
K = Kansas
A60451 = Built in Dec. 1966

 

Shows how much I know! Thanks for that, I know I shouldn't have a problem titling it since its currently titled as a 67

 

Concerning the "performance" 460 that is sitting in the machine shop, I'm not too knowledgeable on the performance lingo (all my motors are mostly stock) and whatnot. What all do I need to find out from the shop to know if it's worth anything or not? Thanks guys.

 

Research on how YOUR state legally registers vehicles... some go by the door tag, engine year, and some by frame VINs. For example, find out how "reconstructed" vehicles get titled if the body, frame, and engine come from different years. In CA, it can be either the engine year or what the body looks like... custom tube and manufactured kit cars have to get "Special Construction" registration.

However, most DOT offices will not care cuz they're too busy or just want your registration dollars. Whichever the case may be, make sure the title is clean as in not salvaged or stolen.

 

Well to give y'all an update, after a real late 8+ hour drive with a car trailer last night after work to see and possibly buy the 67, it turned out to be a lot rougher than I was led to believe, especially for that price. Annoying but at least I saved my money. Ill check out that 66 since its local but the hunt continues!

On a side note, if a truck has a rusty bed (some holes in the bottom of the bed etc) but the frame and cab have been blasted and coated and appear to be done right, is the bed a deal breaker? Is replacing the bed floor a big thing or maybe even the whole bed if I can find one? I can do mechanical stuff no problem I'm just not big on body work. Thanks!