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Knock Sensor Problems - Need Ideas!

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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:20 PM
  #16  
nflfreak43's Avatar
nflfreak43
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From: La Vergne, TN
If your adding an additive to your oil, your doing 1 of 2 things.

1. Not choosing the right oil
2. Band-aiding a problem that needs fixing..

It blows my mind you've used it for years ignoring the problem. I hope you get hosed by that "mechanic" that pulled the inner fender to check the knock sensor..

As said above Lucas is a really really thick additive. People swear by it cause they're stuck in the 70's mindset of thicker is better.

I bet your mind would explode knowing I run a 0w30
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:24 PM
  #17  
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danr1
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Originally Posted by dustybumpers
I am adding STP oil treatment to my one 5.0. I need it to last two more weekends, then I'll pull it and replace it.

It is like the original poster's engine, Knocking from a rod, a main bearing, and has so much base pressure it leaks everywhere. Smoke actually puffs when you idle with the oil fill cap off.
I, like the original poster just need to squeeze it a tiny bit more.
I don't think the knock sensor is an issue, I think his motor, like mine is just plain old tired
I did that with the 400 in my 78 for couple months waiting for the time and weather needed to swap in the 460 I picked up for it, put can of STP in it help reduce the rattle. It worked pretty good, got me those few needed weeks. In the end, the day it was coming out it still took 20 minutes holding it to the floor in neutral to throw the rod through the pan!

NS I would think the easiest way to tell would be the opposite of testing to see if its working, IIRC the test is to tap block near NS while watching timing mark with light. If the timing backs off while lightly tapping the block the sensor is working, computer sees its input.

So if jcs1966 truck has a NS watching the timing mark when unplugging it should show the timing advance couple few degrees, that is if the engines rattling is in fact causing the computer to retard the timing.

Apposed to say just unplugging it, then saying it runs better because of that fact. Eliminate wishful thinking made up most or all the difference!

Is the knock sensor having an effect or isn't it in an engine in that condition.

 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:54 PM
  #18  
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From: Farmington, MO
I do not use improper oil. Lol. I use Valvoline as my preferred choice. I use 5W30 with the Lucas. I use this in used cars I own for I do not know if they were properly maintained or not by the P/Os. Depending on the season I change the weight of the oil. With all this, I have never had an issue, as well as regular oil changes. I do not agree with just cause I have bought it, I believe it works. I have done the oil changes with and without and notice a "dirty oil" difference in both. With the Lucas being cleaner. That is my proof. I have tried STP and it works as well. If it was a motor I rebuilt, such as my metro, I run full synthetic Valvoline. If its my race motor I use Royal Purple. No additives in either cause I know the condition of the motor and the driver behind the peddle.

So I put in additive on my used vehicles I have purchased.

As for having bandaids on a motor, it means you are trying to squeeze every last mile out before you can afford a rebuild. I have my hands and money dipped into two builds right now. I can't afford either of my vehicles to be shut down right now for me to put my time into it yet.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 07:38 AM
  #19  
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From: Imperial, MO
Originally Posted by nflfreak43
People swear by it cause they're stuck in the 70's mindset of thicker is better.

I bet your mind would explode knowing I run a 0w30
Bingo.


Originally Posted by Frozen_Joker
I have done the oil changes with and without and notice a "dirty oil" difference in both. With the Lucas being cleaner. That is my proof.
I'd suggest sending in a sample with and without for UOA. I think you'll be surprised.

Here's the old link to the demonstration Bob did with LOS:
http://web.archive.org/web/201009261...ucas/lucas.htm


And a VOA on LOS:
Unless listed all are 'Zero'

TBN - 0.1
Visc - 615.3
FP - 435
Calcium - 3
Magnesium - 1
Phosphorus - 4
Zinc - 2

It's a thick base-stock oil. Nothing more. If the used oil with LOS appeared "less dirty", it's likely because you've reduced your overall percentage of detergents by substituting regular oil with LOS.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 07:46 AM
  #20  
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nflfreak43
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From: La Vergne, TN
Dirty oil, means it's doing its job of cleaning and getting the dirt out off the engine..

But the filter should remove most of that from the oil. That's the kicker.. I can nearly guarantee that Lucas doesn't do anything helpful
 
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