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Fuel Line Purge - HELP!

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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 12:06 PM
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Fuel Line Purge - HELP!

I had to drop my fuel tank and as a result, I replaced the fuel lines from the underbed filter to the tank. After replacing everything, I purged, purged, and purged some more. With much difficulty I was able to get the truck running and it ran good. But, I have trouble restarting the truck anytime I let it sit for a couple of hours. It cranks and cranks and eventually fires, but with much difficulty.

Any ideas here?
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 12:18 PM
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What was the reason for dropping the tank in the first place? There might be something else going on that more info might help with ideas.

As for ideas with the new lines could it be sucking air somewhere? Have you filled it up to the top and let it sit to make sure no small leaks?

Did you replace the filters at the same time as the work? They might be restricting flow.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 12:26 PM
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It's a Titan tank. I had a small leak from the top and assumed it was one of the connections. It only leaked fuel when the tank was filled as full as possible.

Anyway, the truck was a work truck and it was filty on top of the tank. I couldn't tell where the fuel leak was coming from. So, I dropped the tank to clean and retighten everything. In doing this, I damaged the fuel lines and needed to replace them.

I put everything back together and refilled the tank to mostly full (not to the brim).

I didn't replace any filters.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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I read something about depressing a schrader valve while cranking to release air in the lines. Does this make sense?

If so, where is the valve?
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by LB_
I read something about depressing a schrader valve while crankingto release air in the lines. Does this make sense?

If so, where is the valve?
Your cranking to release the air in the lines??
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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I would first replace the filters, and then cycle the key to purge the lines, it shouldn't require anything else because it should be the same as when the filters are removed and the system is drained at that point.

I would also go fill the system completely to the top so you can see if it is still leaking and to see if any of your new lines are leaking. Check for any kinks, I know the connections on top of the tank are tight and if you don't have the sending unit in the tank lined up correctly it could kink a line. Check the vent line too.

Start with the filters though, if you had a leak in the tank before, they need replaced anyway as they could have let in water or debris.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 04:22 PM
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I think I found it. There is a small crack at the base of one of the stubs on the sending unit.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Leonandlisa
I would first replace the filters, and then cycle the key to purge the lines, it shouldn't require anything else because it should be the same as when the filters are removed and the system is drained at that point.

I would also go fill the system completely to the top so you can see if it is still leaking and to see if any of your new lines are leaking. Check for any kinks, I know the connections on top of the tank are tight and if you don't have the sending unit in the tank lined up correctly it could kink a line. Check the vent line too.

Start with the filters though, if you had a leak in the tank before, they need replaced anyway as they could have let in water or debris.
LB. When you get it back together I would recomend this same advice.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Hdslider
LB. When you get it back together I would recomend this same advice.
All good advice. Thanks.

I hope I've got this problem figured out. So far, it's only cost me $1000. &^%#@^^$$%!!!!
 
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 10:01 AM
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Good news. I picked up a new fuel sender unit and got everything reinstalled last night. She fired up like there was never a problem.

Drove the truck into work this morning and everything ran beautifully. I'm fairly certain I got this one figured out. (Just need to clear the DTC code.)

Thanks again.

For anyone's interest, here is a pic of the small crack that gave me so much grief. You can see it at the base of the right stub.

 

Last edited by LB_; Aug 1, 2013 at 10:02 AM. Reason: Grammer.
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by LB_
...
For anyone's interest, here is a pic of the small crack that gave me so much grief. You can see it at the base of the right stub.
picture too small
 
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 10:25 AM
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Hopefully this one is larger...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=135462
 
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by LB_
yep, good..

that crack would do it! and hard to see as well..
 
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