Factory Gauge Help
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Junior User
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Factory Gauge Help
1951 Ford F-1, 239 V8
Recently I converted the system to 12 volts. I am now putting the finishing touches on putting everything back together. I bought a voltage reducer from vintageauto.com, that takes the 12 volts down to 6.7 to run the gauges. Everything works fine, except I have one problem. When I install the gauges in their proper dash holes, I keep blowing the fuse on the voltage reducer. I have found out that when I remove the gauges from the holes, the fuse doesnt blow.
I asked a friend of mine, and he made a suggestion that I could have the power wire to the gauges backwards. After thinking it through, I remember myself testing both poles on the fuel gauge and no matter which side I put power to, it worked. I havent had a chance to test his theory, but does this seem logical? Why would the fuse keep blowing?
Thanks.
Recently I converted the system to 12 volts. I am now putting the finishing touches on putting everything back together. I bought a voltage reducer from vintageauto.com, that takes the 12 volts down to 6.7 to run the gauges. Everything works fine, except I have one problem. When I install the gauges in their proper dash holes, I keep blowing the fuse on the voltage reducer. I have found out that when I remove the gauges from the holes, the fuse doesnt blow.
I asked a friend of mine, and he made a suggestion that I could have the power wire to the gauges backwards. After thinking it through, I remember myself testing both poles on the fuel gauge and no matter which side I put power to, it worked. I havent had a chance to test his theory, but does this seem logical? Why would the fuse keep blowing?
Thanks.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,301
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From: NM
Power for the three gauges (all exc. ammeter) is a single connection that uses the metal strips to connect to the others. Those strips need to be insulated at the posts, and can't touch anything at any point or you'll have a short. Are you using an electronic reducer?
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Junior User
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Alb,
This is the reducer that I am using 12 volt - 6 volt Oil, Gas, Temp Vintage Gauge Reducer
I am using the metal strips as shown in some of the pictures I have seen. I am assuming that the ground for all of the gauges come from being installed in the gauge slot? Could the reason the fuse pops is because maybe a different wire from the key switch, headlight switch, or another part is touching the metal dash?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,301
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
I've only recently worked on the oil pressure gauge, and I was surprised that it is not grounded -- I mean the case clearly is, but none of the internals appeared to requre a ground. Everything inside is insulated. The sender units are the ground side of the circuits.
Make sure if you took the metal cups off the back of the gauges, that when installed the cup fits properly on the phenolic strip where the terminals are. There are two little tabs that fit into slots on the ends of the phenolic. It can slip out of the slots and that can short them. Also there is a piece of cardboard over most of the cup to insulate it.
Make sure if you took the metal cups off the back of the gauges, that when installed the cup fits properly on the phenolic strip where the terminals are. There are two little tabs that fit into slots on the ends of the phenolic. It can slip out of the slots and that can short them. Also there is a piece of cardboard over most of the cup to insulate it.
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