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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Voltage reducers

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Old May 29, 2009 | 09:29 AM
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Pappys53
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Voltage reducers

I was wondering if a voltage reducer that NAPA sells could be used for all my gauges or do each one need their own reducer? I want to get my stock gauges working and get rid of the aftermarket ones mounted below my dash.
 
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Old May 29, 2009 | 11:09 AM
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HI Pappy

I just finished writing up some responses to gauge voltage reducers for another member. I say if it works use it. On my 55 I used a single reducer - a Vol-ta-drop. On the 51 I use the individual reducers and I've found th egauges to be more accurate and responsive.

Here's th elink we just finished - should have everything you need! We actually covered wiring from the generator, and ignition switch wiring as well. For gauges, I'd start at Post 19.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...12-volt-2.html
 
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Old May 29, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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Personally, I never had any luck for very long with the voltage reducers. They worked for a while ( about a year) and the stock gauges were pretty accurate, then one shorted out and took quite a few components with it. Finally just bit the bullet and completely converted the truck to 12v and installed some aftermarket gauges.
 
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Old May 29, 2009 | 05:49 PM
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Julies Cool F1
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Originally Posted by doug51f1
Personally, I never had any luck for very long with the voltage reducers. They worked for a while ( about a year) and the stock gauges were pretty accurate, then one shorted out and took quite a few components with it. Finally just bit the bullet and completely converted the truck to 12v and installed some aftermarket gauges.
That's why you use fuse blocks and have each component on an individual fuse when you rewire and convert to 12 volt. If it had been wired correctly, nothing should have been lost but the reducer.

Which brings me to another point: If you look in my galleries, there is one dedicated to converting your stock Temp and Oil Pressure Gauges to mechanical gauge aparatus with the original faces. The gas gauge you have to use the converter - or buy the 12 volt set (with sending unit) from LMC for the $100 or so.

My gas gauge still has the reducer, was calibrated using Julies World Famous Cardboard Box Calibration Technique, it's worked perfectly for 4 years, and the gauge is still with in a mile of accuracy when I run out of gas. I test it often - not always deliberately, but often.
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 11:52 AM
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doug51f1
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Wink

Originally Posted by Julies Cool F1
That's why you use fuse blocks and have each component on an individual fuse when you rewire and convert to 12 volt. If it had been wired correctly, nothing should have been lost but the reducer.

Which brings me to another point: If you look in my galleries, there is one dedicated to converting your stock Temp and Oil Pressure Gauges to mechanical gauge aparatus with the original faces. The gas gauge you have to use the converter - or buy the 12 volt set (with sending unit) from LMC for the $100 or so.

My gas gauge still has the reducer, was calibrated using Julies World Famous Cardboard Box Calibration Technique, it's worked perfectly for 4 years, and the gauge is still with in a mile of accuracy when I run out of gas. I test it often - not always deliberately, but often.
Are you suggesting I had it wired up incorrectly? We hardly know eachother and already making suggestions of inferiror workmanship.

You may be right, or not. All of my gauges were wired from the same fuse, in parrallel with an individual reducer for each. I measured the amperage of the entire circuit, added 10% and sized the fuse accordingly. ( the mistake here was in using a time delay fuse) One reducer shorted out and before the fuse blew, I suppose through some sort of backfeed through the case of the gauge cluster, the others went as well.
One thing I know for sure though, is that all electrical devices work on the "magic smoke" principal. If you ever let out the magic smoke, they will never work again.
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 09:25 PM
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Julies Cool F1
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Originally Posted by doug51f1
Are you suggesting I had it wired up incorrectly? We hardly know eachother and already making suggestions of inferiror workmanship.

You may be right, or not. ......One thing I know for sure though, is that all electrical devices work on the "magic smoke" principal. If you ever let out the magic smoke, they will never work again.
Well in re reading my comment it does sound a little condescending - sorry.

The way you had it duplicates the original signal flow path.

But, these truck weren't terrifically mindfull of circuit protection as originally wired. Remember, we are talking about a generator that had problems producing enough current to keep the lights bright when the heater was on.

That's another reason I prefer to rewire one wire at a time rather than buy harnesses that duplicate the original signal flow paths. On a 12 volt rewire EVERY piece of electrical equipment should have it's own fuse, and be individually wired - in my opinion - for what that's worth - especially those using reducers (which draw high wattages). Not only does it isolate that one piece to damage if the fuse system fails (or is delayed), it also GREATLY simplifies troubleshooting if necessary.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 09:24 AM
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Wink

Originally Posted by Julies Cool F1
Well in re reading my comment it does sound a little condescending - sorry.
No offense taken, I thought I would poke back a little for fun. These old trucks are always fun to try to sort out.
 
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