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My truck flunked an inspection due to "Worn Ball Joints" Don't think he knew too much about my truck, or anything for that matter as my truck uses kingpins. anyway, I need to change these kingpins. I got the new kingpins so I just need to figure out the best way to put em in. I know I need to get the hub and spindle off, but the rest after I'm stumped on. Any write ups on this. I've done some research, but not much came up for the 1 ton twin I beam setup.
No help here, but i'm gonna add a question to the thread.
Can a worn Kingpin with play in it, break like a ball joint?
Had an alignment done on the motorhome before my trip, and my drivers side Kingpin has quite abit of play in it, passenger side is just starting as well.
It is the bushings that wear the late models used plastic bushings they can't break but they can get sloppy making steering very interesting. I haven't replaced any in a long time. You have to remove the cross bolt then drive or push out the pin. And that can be an issue they seem to seize up in the axle. We used to heat the axle up red hot then quench and drive out with big hammer and punch. Don't know if that is how it is done now.
Have you tried greasing them at all? If the king pins are dry they will have play. Once greased up the play usually goes away. Also wtroger is correct, king pins don't usually wear out, its the bushings.
Lift the front wheels off the ground and go to shaking like you where checking a wheel bearing have some watch to see if and where the slack is at. Like I said I haven't put any in a long time they don't seem to wear as bad as they used to. You also have to set them up with shims between the axle and the thrust bearings to get that clearance right.
i was looking online it appears that the replacement kits include metal bushings this requires a reamer or a machine shop to fit the bushings to the pins
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