Truck has been to dealer twice this week not under warranty and I'm tired of dumping money into it and not getting fixed. Replaced battery cable and both batteries first time to the tune of $750 which I was doubtful was going to fix it but was hopeful. Second time replaced egr valve.

Original issue started like this:
Truck ran great then stalled once going into a parking lot. Started up first crank and never acted up again that day. Now randomly while driving I press the accelerator and nothing won't rev/ nothing. It's like it's not getting fuel. If I coast for a couple seconds and randomly tap the accelerator, it'll pick back up and run just fine for 15 miles or so then does it again.
Never threw a code until today but it threw a turbo under boost code but when the truck is running fine turbo seems to be working just fine.
Where do I start now?
Any help would be appreciated
Thank you

 

Have you checked the EBP sensor, and Tube. How about the map sensor? They both get plugged up with soot, and can be carefully cleaned. Check the pipes and hoses to them. To clean the EBP tube, a piece if wire work's well. These will set turbo codes, and also stop the accelerator pedal from working.

 

This is true the MAP hose that goes down to a nipple and threads in to the Intake that little hole will get plugged, Do you have any Gauges to read live data? My stalling issue was the ICP and ICP Pig Tail , the wire was shorting out inbetween the grey plastic clip so bought one from ford and wired it into the Harness Just remember when cleaning some of these sensers don't get Carb cleaner into the Electrical side of the senser and
Ware your safety because that stuff burns like

 

Cleaned ebp tube and sensor, checked hose for map sensor and cleaned out that little hole.
Tool it for a 25 min test drive and it seemed to run fine, only time will tell.
The CEL is still on, do I have to take it in somewhere to clear it because my scan gauge won't clear it.

 

Sounds like an electrical gremlin to me. Check the connectors for the VGT actuator, ICP, and even the fan clutch.

 

My '05 had a few instances of stalling (once it felt like I got rear ended at a traffic stop from the buck of the stall). This was right after I bought it. I disconnected the ICP pigtail and cleaned the plug and connector, and made sure it was firmly seated. Never happened again. I believe it was from the dealership washing the engine as my sensor is on the passenger valve cover.

 

do you get a p1000, a p0603 or a system pass message?

 

P0299 is the only code I get and CEL is on

Neither code nor CEL when I brought to dealership, it came on the day after second trip.
Don't know if that prevented their diagnostics or not. Truck seems fine today but code and CEL is still there.
Going to work on it once engine cools tonight when I get home from work.

 

You can clear the code by disconnecting the batteries and turning the light switch on to clear the keep alive memory capacitors. If the code and CEL comes back you still have a problem (turbo underboost).

 

imo the underboost maybe caused by the stalling. whats causing it hmmmm. dont rightly know.

 

you will need some Gauges to read a multitude of sensers, and guessing is free but time consuming and throwing parts will get costly,the Scan Gauge II with X gauges seem to keep my truck running , others have used dash boss hell I cant tell you the rest of them . one thing that comes to mind for under boost is CAC tubes you need to take them off and look for splits even the CAC intercooler tank, plastic they will crack, the stalling for me was the ICP and PIG Tail

 

Cleared the cel
Truck ran normal until last night
Pulled in gas station at 2am and truck stalled then will not restart
Gave me several injector codes- like 6 of them
No way it's all injectors right
If I unplug icp I should start if that is the problem right?
How to test hpop?
Any other ideas

Going to head that way shortly
Thanks again

 

Mine did the same thing and that's the only way I could explain it was it felt like I was rear ended. I never stalled out, cleaned and seated ICP as well. Happened a few times before i finally fixed it. This was before i had my Scangauge. My tach needle never fluctuated.

 

Check the ficm voltage. Its unlikely to have that many failed injectors unless your tank has crud in it.

 

<p>My bet is the FICM died, X2 on checking the FICM voltage, but just because the FICM voltage is good doesn't mean the FICM isn't toast.</p> also need to load test the batteries separately ( completely disconnected from one another ) and have your alternator tested.