When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When you buy reconditioned piston rods, do they come in original size?
I have a short block that failed, and I want to break it down and determine cause. It went from 30 psi at a hot idle to 4 psi hot idle in 1k miles. On that build I had the crank and rods turned .010 over, polished, balanced.
Now I need to know what happened. I plan to tear it down and use plastiguage (again) on the mains and rods, and check the rods super closely.
Reconditioning is just grinding the cap and rod end a touch then honing it back to factory specs for roundness. Not sure if you knew that or not but hardly anything gets taken off. Maybe the issue was you forgot to get bearings for a .010 under crank (not over). I wold think you woulda heard std bearings in there slapping around.
Like PA74F250 said, when rods are reconditioned the bearing bore is resized to the original dimension. Also, cylinders are bored oversize, crankpins are turned undersize. That being said, do you hear any noise in the bottom end or is the low oil pressure your only symptom of a problem?
When you pull the bearings, look at the backside of them and make sure they are in fact the correct size bearings. If your crank was turned -.010" the bearings should have 010 stamped on the back. If they are marked STD, 002, or 005 that's your problem.
If there are no other symptoms, there's the possibility that the gauge is bad.
Next, the pressure relief valve in the oil pump could be stuck and bypassing too much oil.
If one of the galley plugs had come out, I would expect it to have zero oil pressure.
I was laughing because that mistake seemed comical. I'm sorry my humor was mistaken. As so often happens on the forum, information is understood the wrong way, or personalities are different, and dispute arises.
Thanks for the help guys. I wanted to post this illustration so we know that all concerned know what undersized and oversize bearings are. If I used the wrong terminology I'm sorry. But rest assured, when the bearings were purchased, they were checked.
Oil pressure gauge was changed. Oil pump was changed to a h.v. pump. Psi continued to drop radically and the engine was pulled and changed. It has set in my garage for two years now. I'm about to break it down and go through it.
High volume pumps were designed for racing clearance engines. They run higher clearances and hence need the higher volume of oil. If you put one on a standard clearance engine you can have issues.
The engine is a ford 300, inline 6, with 250 hp. I paid a friend on hard times, who is a pro mechanic, to build it. I was too busy at the time. Something went through the oil and wiped the bearings w/i a few hundred miles.
I changed the bearing from underneath. Psi started dropping. I changed the gauge. Dropped further and I changed to hv pump. When it got to 4 psi I had another engine waiting, that I built, and have been running it for ...iirc, three years now. But that first one has been itching at the back of my mind all this time, and I want to take it apart and hopefully find out what happened.
I've been running the hv pump 3 years w/o problem.
Note: It is nearly impossible to find oversize bearings for a 300.
Question: What does one do if you need to have block line bored and the crank needs to be turned down as well. Is there a combo bearing, an over/under bearing? Or do you use the dimensions of a bearing from another engine and have it machined to fit that bearing?
Note: It is nearly impossible to find oversize bearings for a 300.
Question: What does one do if you need to have block line bored and the crank needs to be turned down as well. Is there a combo bearing, an over/under bearing? Or do you use the dimensions of a bearing from another engine and have it machined to fit that bearing?
Cheers.
Contrary to your info, you shouldn't need oversized bearings for an engine that's been line bored. When an engines main bearings are line bored, the same machine operation is done as when they rebuild the connecting rods.
The machinist takes the main bearing caps and grinds a couple of thousandths off the mating surface. This makes the bearing bores undersized. The caps are then reinstalled and torqued to spec and the mains are honed back to the original spec. You use standard off the shelf bearings.
The only time oversize (larger OD) bearings are required is when the bearing is a single piece, not split. Example, cam bearings on the Ford 2300 4 cylinder. Common to spin the cam bearing, line hone to a larger ID and replace the cam bearings with oversize units.
My guess is and without seeing it personally the rods were the beginning of the problem. It's hard to tell if they were out of round or just too tight on the crank. The bearing material is probably what did the most damage to the mains. Still just a guess without being in my own hands.
Rods had ARP bolts. Are those torqued the same? The guy was experience engine builder. He would/should have known, and the crank and rods and journals should have been miched.
Although I've built a few engines, my experience is limited. Once I get it apart I'll run all the findings by you guys, and any guidance will be greatly appreciated.
Surprisingly, what I found with 2 pros I know, and also with two machine shops, is because the engine is an inline they don't seem as concerned, as though it is a toy or something.
I had a 390 do the same thing, I just kept driving it til it started rattling so it turned out i had a 10/10 crank rolling on standard bearings. So i bought a reman crank/bearing kit and put it all back together but it still had low oil presure, got mad and bought a reman engine b/c i needed that truck on the road took the engine back to the machine shop turns out the cam bearings were also wrong,however that happened i wasted 3grand for a 30 dollar set of cam bearings and a 150 dollar crank kit. live and learn