Just recently went through my 6.0L, new "Blue"Spring fuel regulator, new fuel pump, egr valve and fuel filters...
I went a little further and took out the IAT sensor which to my surprise was gunked/tarred shut, makes me wonder what the inside of the intake looks like... I cleaned it all up w carburetor cleaner, also cleaned the MAP nipple in the intake manifold... Not sure how to post pictures, I'd put in on here to see it...
The truck runs much better, much improved, towed a 28' goosneck horse trailer about 500 miles w/o a bit of trouble and the meter says it used 14 miles / gallon... without the trailer it's more like 18 - 20... driving it easy.

Has anyone figured out how to clean the inside of the intake manifold without taking it off the engine???
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I don't think its been mastered yet , I suppose all the build up has to go some where not in my HPOP, the map IAT2 does get pretty gunked up ,Do you run any fuel supplement like diesel kleen ,Howes ford cetain boost that will help a little.

 

Did it look like this? Lol

Before


After

 

It did look just like that... and the cleaned up one too...

I know they used the "Sea Foam" on the gas motors to clean the inside of the intakes but I'm not sure I want to put that through my 6.0L..

Just thinking it the intake is gunked up like that it would effect cylinder balance and ultimately torque and efficiency...

 

I do run the Fuel Conditioner: Power Service most of the time... it seems to clean it up, at least the way is sounds anyway... runs better I think.

 

I think the SeaFoam (a good strong cleaner) is alcohol based. That means it will have some h2o in it. I would pass on using it in a diesel. I think the only way to clean that intake up spotless is to pull it off and blast it with a pressure washer and some serious detergent/chemicals or get it vatted at a machine shop.

Unless you re-route your crankcase vent it's going to get dirty again pretty quickly. I think for all practical purposes you could do a passible job with scrapers and a shop vac with a piece of 1/2in hose taped to the nozzle.

A word of caution, (sounds like you may be a "clean nut" like me ) If you pull the intake to clean it, you're going to want to pull the heads and clean them when you see what they look like. Where does the madness stop? Lol

 

Rusty, About 20' back from the tail pipe unless you have a trailer on.

I had my IA2 out a week or two ago and it looked just as nasty. Cleaned
up very nice and I bet in a few weeks it's will look at bad again.

Old Timer 3, If you look at the top of the forum page one you will see
a thread about how to post photos. I copied and put a link here just for you

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...he-forums.html

Enjoy

Sean

 

when I cleaned mine I thought I cleaned it too good with the little ball I thought the carb cleaner eat the rest of the senser LOL thanks for the tech folders the senser is all good.

 

I've seen it posted numerous times about getting the intakes vatted at radiator shops and machine shops but when I went looking for a place they all told me the caustic solution in their cleaning tanks would eat the aluminum intake. Are they just giving me the run around and just don't want to do it or will it literally eat the intake?

 

No, they are telling you right. The Caustic soda vat with the burner underneath is for cast iron and steel only. Most places have a cold vat with some sweet smelling stuff in it for aluminum parts. a smaller shop may have just a 55gal drum for pistons and small parts. EPA laws have changed things also. The last time I had a block cleaned they put it in a cabinet that had a rotating table and spray jets around the outside, it sprayed heated water and a citrus based cleaner. The water had to be captured and filtered and reused in the system, the company they were contracted with comes by and collects the sludge for proper disposal. I think how your local shop works depends on your location. But they should be able to clean it somehow.

 

Great, thanks for all the information... having spent years rebuilding motors and working on air flow through the system I can't help wonder how it would help with the 6.0L.

One thing I thought about on the recent trip is that the max torque spec for this engine is at 2000 rpm, this is where it is going to pull the best, Maximum Torque can be equated to -Maximum Fill- or most efficient fill of the cylinders... this is where it's going to run the best down the highway... for mine it's about 65 mph, cruise control "on"... it all seems to come together at that number... good engineering, providing everything else is up to snuff...

Now have 103,000 and thinking about preventive maintenance in that the egr cooler should be replaced... I never drive it hard, no quarter mile passes, the right foot has almost never hit the floor board... so, it looks like the bullet proof egr cooler is the way to go and the oil cooler at the same time along with a coolant flush and it should be good for a while after that.
Doing the heads/gaskets/studs while the engine is in the truck looks like a "bear" of a job, I see some shops take the cab off...
My mind set does not allow me to take the truck anywhere for repairs or upgrades... always on it or in it myself...

Has anyone studied the PowerStrokeHelp.com guy ???

He's down south in Georgia or Alabama... can't remember...
He has a "bullet proof" program... expensive but a good guarantee...

 

Yeah, those "dishwashers" for auto parts are really great and do a heckuva job cleaning parts. Not many folks in this part of the country have them and those that do are dealerships that don't do outside work. As much as I hate to admit this, it IS still the Arkansas/Oklahoma hills and there are lots of very conservative (to put it mildly) folks here.

I acquired an 05 intake that was absolutely plugged to the point where the EGR valve wouldn't open and a steam cleaner wouldn't get the passage open. I had to dig that gooey mess out with a screwdriver to get be able to get the valve back in. The valve took 3 hours of soaking, chiseling, and brushing to get it free enough to work. There's not anything on the planet that would have cleaned that intake without removing it.

Rusty have you seen all the discussion about the ported intakes and the gains they are getting from them?

 

One more thing to think about... I ran a drill through the Map nipple enlarging the inside diameter by one click...
The map hose is 3/16" ID, I think, maybe 1/4" and the nipple ID is 1/8" so... I'm thinking that increasing the diameter also increases the response time for the map... the change in pressure will be felt by the map sensor, maybe a tiny click faster.

"Gain" is always felt from a series of small improvements !

 

Has anyone used any of the aftermarket air filters ?

Any thoughts on the subject...

I've had the K/N system on this one for about 3 years and I thought it made a difference at first but over the long run, can't really mark any distinct change in character of the 2005 F-250 SuperDuty...

 

When one ports the intake, is it port matched to the heads at the same time ?

The best system I've seen is the "Extrusion Honing" where it's all bolted together on the heads, intake valves out and they force this thick abrasive goop through the whole thing under pressure... this really gets it like air flow would go...

When intakes are ported and reports are given, are these applications for the average user or for the stump pulling contestants ???