Please help Im out of ideas.
Engine started running rough like the timing was off.I have replaced cap,rotor,condensor,wires,plugs,coil,timing chain and gears.
I triple checked i had TDC when I replaced the gears on the timing chain,both marks on the gears were lined up properly.
When I hand turn the crank and line it up at TDC to check the rotor in the dizzy it is pointing at #1 spark plug.
All the wires are in correct order,fuel pump is working properly but it barely stays idle.I have used the timing gun at 6 degrees and have tried to set the timing like it should but it just won't run right.
I have tried just about every scenerio with my old parts and new parts combined so all the new parts I listed are in working order.
I also hooked up a vacuum gauge and it was reading that the timing was off,this was before the new timing set was installed,and it still ran bad after the new one was installed.

 

Does it run better when the timing is advanced beyond specs?
If it does, then you might have a bad harmonic balancer.
The outer ring with the degree marks is held to the inner part by a bonded rubber strip. When these go bad the outer ring can move, usually in the retarded direction, and throw off your timing if you're using a light to set it.
If that's the case, set the timing by ear and replace the balancer.

 

Another thing. This is a '74 w/ points style distributor correct?
I see you replaced the condenser but didn't say anything about the points.
If you haven't done so, replace the points and gap them at .017".
Another thing to check is the breaker plate. That's the part in the distributor that the points are attached to.
On these distributors the breaker plate is actually two separate pieces that are held together with a plastic rivet and spring. This is so the one half of the plate can pivot back and forth for the vacuum advance. It was real common for these plates to go bad allowing the points to misfire. The breaker plates are still available and relatively easy to replace.
One other thing to check. There should also be a short little ground wire inside the distributor that grounds the breaker plate to the distributor housing. Be sure that's in place.
And, lastly, check the distributor shaft bushing for wear. See if you can wobble the shaft side to side.

 

Yes it is a points style dizzy,I forgot to mention that an I have gapped them at .017 several times.
I have also taken out the breaker plates more than 3 times to clean the inside of the dizzy,I used a regular kitchen sponge side with the scouring and cleaned both breaker plates.When I finished I hooked a hand pump to the vacc advance and it moves properly when pumped up.
And the ground wire or earth wire that screws into the plate and points is screwed in properly.

 

I have taken the dizzy out and checked the gear at the bottom and all the teeth gear are good order,and every time I put the dizzy back in the engine it was at TDC and the rotor was pointing at the #1 on the cap.
It doesn't move side to side when I try to see of the shaft is loose like you mentioned.
I just seems like something in the ignition is not working.

 

At first it seemed to run better when I unhooked the dizzy advance at high RPMs and when I hooked the hose back up it would shake like crazy.
It runs like crap either way when the advance is hooked or unhooked.

 

Agree with Mike Zero's post...#2.
Paint a straight line on the balancer going across the rubber, in a couple places. Run and check to see if the line moved.

Make or buy a piston stop just to verify TDC on compression stroke.

Distributor weights and plates move freely?

Dist. cap & rotor seated correctly?

Verify all vacuum lines/connections are in good working order and the distributor vacuum advance is connected to a timed vacuum source.

Advance timing to 10 - 14 degrees (with light) or by ear 'till she starts to run ragged, the back off a bit until a semi - smooth idle is achieved. (Vac advance disconnected and plugged).

Reconnect vacuum advance.

Adjust carb mixture screws (with vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum) for highest smooth vacuum reading.

 

When you say a piston stop do you mean like something you put in the #1 spark plug hole?I pulled the #1 plug and put a wooden dowl rod and watched it untill it stopped moved and it was on TDC.

The dizzy weights and plates move freely like you suggested.
The cap and rotor are seated properly also.
All the vac lines are brand new and are getting good vacuum.
The vacuum line that the dizzy advance is connected to a 3 port sensor that is screwed into the thermostat housing and is pulling vac at a high RPM.

I tried advancing and retarding the timing and still same.

When I adjust the idle mixture screws which one should I start with the left or right and should they be screwed all the way in and then unscrew them a quarter turn or so untill smooth idle is achieved?

I will try the line on the balancer an see if its moving next.

Thanks for all the replys,I will update my progress after I try the line on the balancer.

Thanks for all the help any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

The idle screws are screwed all the way in until they seat lightly then back out 1 1/2 turns and go from there. It doesn't make any difference whether you adjust right or left first.
If, after all you do, it still doesn't run right, I'd say the next step is a compression test.

 

Update:
I did a compression test on my engine and each cylinder is within 1 or 2 lbs of each other.
They read between 146-148 lbs.PSI.
When my battery charges back up I'm going to draw the line on the balancer and see if that is next on the list.

 

Compression is good. If the timing marks check okay, I would start looking at worn lobes on the cam.

 

Are you sourcing manifold (full) or ported (timed) vacuum for your advance?

 

Not an FE guy, although I have a couple. This thread is making me ponder as well. One question. Is the 360 retarded valve timing machined into the cam or the chain and gears??? Trying to weigh all possibilities.

 

On later models the cam is retarded from straight up for emissions reasons. You can get the cam back to straight up timing by using an earlier cam gear.

 

K so the gear change is not the issue, unless installed wrong. Lets hope a degree wheel is not in the OPs future. For my reference, its 6° difference right?