Turbo time!
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 3
From: West of Chicago
Turbo time!
Well after installing my MBRP 4" turbo back with no muffler I seem to have an oily goo in the exhaust. I knew the time was coming due to the oil loss and a slight haze at idle. It is the stock turbo with 291,000 miles on it. It appears to be a thicker oily slightly gritty mix but the gritty could be from the new exhaust install toady. I dont plan on tuning the truck or doing heavy pulling. I'm leaning twards a stocker from Clay or possibly a 38r. The only thing I do not like is the 38r is a sealed unit. The truck is all stock programming and would a 38r hurt my motor at 291,000? Could it simply be junk from the CCV since I'm still running the stock vent?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: Temperance, MI
The 38r isn't going to hurt anything it's an upgrade. In your case if the turbo is in fact shot get ahold of clay and rebuild it. I believe a rebuild kit is around $100 and if your not going to tune it or try upgrading I believe you would be throwing away a lot of money on a 38r to be honest. When it comes to your mileage... Your truck is broke in now, don't worry about mileage these things are built to last.
I would like for you to elaborate about this oily goo you describe "in" your exhaust. Your CCV has nothing to do with your exhaust. Your CCV is in your intake and if you had any oil make it to the combustion chamber it wouldn't stand a change against the cylinder temps. It would be burnt just like the fuel.
I would like for you to elaborate about this oily goo you describe "in" your exhaust. Your CCV has nothing to do with your exhaust. Your CCV is in your intake and if you had any oil make it to the combustion chamber it wouldn't stand a change against the cylinder temps. It would be burnt just like the fuel.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,693
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From: West of Chicago
The 38r isn't going to hurt anything it's an upgrade. In your case if the turbo is in fact shot get ahold of clay and rebuild it. I believe a rebuild kit is around $100 and if your not going to tune it or try upgrading I believe you would be throwing away a lot of money on a 38r to be honest. When it comes to your mileage... Your truck is broke in now, don't worry about mileage these things are built to last.
I would like for you to elaborate about this oily goo you describe "in" your exhaust. Your CCV has nothing to do with your exhaust. Your CCV is in your intake and if you had any oil make it to the combustion chamber it wouldn't stand a change against the cylinder temps. It would be burnt just like the fuel.
I would like for you to elaborate about this oily goo you describe "in" your exhaust. Your CCV has nothing to do with your exhaust. Your CCV is in your intake and if you had any oil make it to the combustion chamber it wouldn't stand a change against the cylinder temps. It would be burnt just like the fuel.
Also the truck does not seem to like to "hold boost" after the TC lockup. I will get about 6-8 psi normally but then as it nears 10 or so as soon as the TC locks (OD) the boost will blow off to about 2 psi. WOT is about 14 ish and going at 2k rpms at about 65 it wil hold about 3-4 psi. I will re-verify this tomorrow. Thanks for the help so far!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
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From: Temperance, MI
I'm unsure about the metal your describing in the exhaust. That's a new one to me maybe someone else can elaborate on that for you. Stock tuning your boost should be some where around 15-17 psi at wot. It sounds like your waste gate is opening before it should. Have you verified the turbo needs to be rebuilt? Grab the shaft and see if there's in and out play 
side to side is fine as long as it doesn't contact the housing. In and out play it needs a rebuild. If the turbo does need rebuilt or not it sounds like you need to tighten up the waste gate rod so it will hold boost. As a temporary fix disconnect the red line running to the waste gate and put it on an intercooler boot clamp see if that helps.
side to side is fine as long as it doesn't contact the housing. In and out play it needs a rebuild. If the turbo does need rebuilt or not it sounds like you need to tighten up the waste gate rod so it will hold boost. As a temporary fix disconnect the red line running to the waste gate and put it on an intercooler boot clamp see if that helps.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: West of Chicago
Well I figure I would post an update, last summer when I installed my gauges and drilled the manifold for the probe, I'm pretty sure some metal shavings made it into the exhaust side of my turbo 
stupid on my part to not try to clean them. Could this be cause for a failing turbo? There is some in and out play so I'm guessing its time. I might go with the 38r since I like the thought of adding bigger injectors or whatever later. I change my t6 every 3k and always let my egts drop to 300. Would longevity be an issue with the 38r?
stupid on my part to not try to clean them. Could this be cause for a failing turbo? There is some in and out play so I'm guessing its time. I might go with the 38r since I like the thought of adding bigger injectors or whatever later. I change my t6 every 3k and always let my egts drop to 300. Would longevity be an issue with the 38r?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
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From: Temperance, MI
Not cleaning out the manifold isn't going to hurt anything the shavings just blew out the exhaust and that was that. No it has nothing to do with your tired turbo mechanical things fail, if you had any idea of how many rpms that thing has been threw in its life you would ask how it lasted this long. You stated before you didn't want to add power but if you think later on you will by all means go for it. I always go 5k+ miles. Longevity from what I've gathers with the 38R you outta be alright.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: West of Chicago
I did a lot of thinking and since I seem to have a perma grin now I feel like I might get the itch to make it more powerful. 291,000 is a lot of miles and yes that's many many rpms over the years. I was just wondering since the 38r is a sealed unit if there ever was issues. After my 120 mile drive today there is considerably more sticky mess in the exhaust! I have noticed slightly more oil use in the past 3,000 miles but no excessive blow by. Thanks for the insight!
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It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Elk Grove, CA
Many folks dis the 38r because it is not rebuildable. I think that's silly since it is going to last a looong time. By then you've gone thru 7 alternators, 3 water pumps and we'll have a muslim in the White House.
If $$ is a concern now just rebuild, but otherwise spend some time setting your goals and budget for the truck, then build it to fit.
If $$ is a concern now just rebuild, but otherwise spend some time setting your goals and budget for the truck, then build it to fit.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
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From: Temperance, MI
You seem to have a lot of the supporting mods... More than I do and Im working on that. If I were in your shoes I would still rebuild the stocker tune it and see if your happy at that power level. Rebuild kit and tuning is still going to be a lot cheaper than the 38R. I don't know if you've been in a tuned truck but the difference is night and day. Then again if I had the cash sitting around I would go all out in a heart beat.
For comparison a friend of mine has a 5.3 in his chebbie and thinks its fast. My truck with 38s and 3:73 gearing walked him up and down the road. He was speechless. I don't think it's all that fast. My wife has a grand cherokee with a 4.7 that is a smiggin faster than my truck. Take into account the gearing in the truck and the shear weight of it, saying it gets out of its own way is an understatement. My rims and tires weigh 164 pounds each!
For comparison a friend of mine has a 5.3 in his chebbie and thinks its fast. My truck with 38s and 3:73 gearing walked him up and down the road. He was speechless. I don't think it's all that fast. My wife has a grand cherokee with a 4.7 that is a smiggin faster than my truck. Take into account the gearing in the truck and the shear weight of it, saying it gets out of its own way is an understatement. My rims and tires weigh 164 pounds each!
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
If plan on running Stage I injectors, then get the 38R. The 38R won't hurt your engine at all with the stock injectors...you're just giving it more air to work with.
If you plan on running stock or maybe adding a chip later, I'd definitely rebuild the stock turbo.
Between Tony Wildman, Gearhead, BTS, and a few others someone will be able to write you something to turn your truck into a fuel efficient, but powerful beast.
If you plan on running stock or maybe adding a chip later, I'd definitely rebuild the stock turbo.
Between Tony Wildman, Gearhead, BTS, and a few others someone will be able to write you something to turn your truck into a fuel efficient, but powerful beast.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,441
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From: Marseilles IL
I wouldn't worry too much about having to rebuild a 38r. Your stock turbo lasted almost 300k. If the 38r lasts 300k, how much more than 600k do you think your motor is gona last to worry about it??? I'm happy with my 38r. I do still have a DP tuner for sale if you want. 38r and a chip will REALLY give you perma grin!!
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: West of Chicago
Well here is some more food for thought, I have been running 2 cycle oil in my fuel at 1oz per gallon. Is it possible its oily residue from the exhaust? A tuner will really cook my 300,000 mile trans! 
Well If I don't need a turbo I can always get my trans re-built so I can toon it! 
Well If I don't need a turbo I can always get my trans re-built so I can toon it!
