Distributor Stuck
Distributor Stuck
1977 F100 Custom Super Cab with 351M. I am trying to adjust the timing but the distributor won't turn. Some other posts have discussed this problem and suggested spraying some lube (marvel mystery oil, 1/2 trans fluid & 1/2 acetone) on the distributor. My question is; do I apply the lube solution at the base of the distributor (where it plugs into the manifold) or pour some oil/lube in the center dist. cam shaft (where the little felt pad sits and the rotor sits)?
...Ok, so if I'm understanding y'all correctly, the area of attention is right there at the bottom of the distributor where it fits into the manifold. (No lubricating the center shaft necessary? As part of maintenance (Haynes manual) is says to put a drop or two of oil onto the felt lubricating pad, so I was wondering if lubing down that shaft would help free up the dist. cam shaft) So is the jam (reason for not moving) in the bottom of dist. cam shaft? or actually just where the dist. fits into the manifold? I guess not at the cam because when the engine is running, that cam must be turning right? Thanks
Yes where it fits into the block (just to clear that up). It fits into the block not the manifold. The base of the distributor can get really stuck to the block I had to free mine with a screwdriver and a hammer (lightly tapping around the base).
if the housing is stuck, spray the outside where it goes into the manifold. heat from a plumbing torch never hurt a little either. WD-40 works so-so; Aero-Kroil, PB-Plaster are both a LOT more effective at freeing stuck stuff.
"Yes where it fits into the block (just to clear that up). It fits into the block not the manifold. The base of the distributor can get really stuck to the block I had to free mine with a screwdriver and a hammer (lightly tapping around the base)."
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Yes you're right, I checked just now and it attaches into the top of the Block.
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Yes you're right, I checked just now and it attaches into the top of the Block.
Last edited by crwood078; Jul 19, 2013 at 02:19 PM. Reason: clarify which post I was replying to.
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Thanks, how about Marvel Mystery Oil/Lube? I've heard a lot about that as a good lubricating agent or a homemade solution of 1/2 trans fluid and 1/2 acetone.
Aero-Kroil is the best thing ever made. Period.
but since you don't have that handy and it sounds like you have Mystery oil handy just use that. If you have to go to the store, pick up some PBlaster. The second best thing out there.
The reason I mentioned wd-40 is because who doesn't have that in their garage? It will work in a pinch but is much better as a rust-inhibitor/water displacement tool.
but since you don't have that handy and it sounds like you have Mystery oil handy just use that. If you have to go to the store, pick up some PBlaster. The second best thing out there.
The reason I mentioned wd-40 is because who doesn't have that in their garage? It will work in a pinch but is much better as a rust-inhibitor/water displacement tool.
Aero-Kroil is the best thing ever made. Period.
but since you don't have that handy and it sounds like you have Mystery oil handy just use that. If you have to go to the store, pick up some PBlaster. The second best thing out there.
The reason I mentioned wd-40 is because who doesn't have that in their garage? It will work in a pinch but is much better as a rust-inhibitor/water displacement tool.
but since you don't have that handy and it sounds like you have Mystery oil handy just use that. If you have to go to the store, pick up some PBlaster. The second best thing out there.
The reason I mentioned wd-40 is because who doesn't have that in their garage? It will work in a pinch but is much better as a rust-inhibitor/water displacement tool.
General question:
So does the top part of the distributor (part exposed above block) turn independently from the dist. cam shaft (lower end which extends into block)? That seems to make sense to me that it would in order to create an adjustment of electrical timing to cam position, am I right on that? (when turning the distributor, the whole assembly, cam shaft and all doesn't turn as well does it?)
I still have not gotten my distributor loose as yet.... Saving that for later. I plan to upgrade distributor later so I will wait until new distributor in on hand, just in case i have to destroy it.
In the mean time good luck with yours..
In the mean time good luck with yours..
So does the top part of the distributor (part exposed above block) turn independently from the dist. cam shaft (lower end which extends into block)? That seems to make sense to me that it would in order to create an adjustment of electrical timing to cam position, am I right on that? (when turning the distributor, the whole assembly, cam shaft and all doesn't turn as well does it?)
By turning the distributor housing you are adjusting when the spark from the coil makes contact with the plug wires, hence "adjusting the timing".
Yes. There is a distributor shaft that engages with the camshaft itself. This shaft runs through the center of the distributor housing and spins independently otherwise the whole frickin distributor would be spinning when you started the car.
By turning the distributor housing you are adjusting when the spark from the coil makes contact with the plug wires, hence "adjusting the timing".
By turning the distributor housing you are adjusting when the spark from the coil makes contact with the plug wires, hence "adjusting the timing".
Ah ok, thanks. So was I incorrectly referring to the dist. shaft as "dist. cam shaft"? I see in the Haynes manual it uses the term "spindle" for the dist. shaft I presume. But what you're saying is the dist. shaft engages the Cam Shaft (of the valve train), is that right?
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