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Are you referring to the parking brake shoes? The main rear brakes are disk brakes. The shoes on the back side are only for parking. You can jack it up and adjust it via the star adjuster through the backing plate. It may or may not still have a rubber plug in it. Spin the wheel by hand until you feel resistance, then back it off a few clicks. A common (flat) screwdriver will work just fine for this. The parking brake shoes don't wear out very easily unless somebody drives with the parking brake on...
Thanks Lx460! I didn't even realize my rear brakes were disc. So, if they were going bad it is feasible that I would hear a "metal-to-metal" grinding noise? It is hard to tell where the sound is coming from. I swapped out the pads in the front, but no luck. And just last night I could swear it sounded as if the grinding noise was coming from the rear. In terms of the brake system is there anything different in the rear other than the parking brake? Thank you.
Yes, most pads have a "wear indicator" which is nothing more than a piece of metal that touches the rotor after the friction material has worn down. They make a noise to indicate there is an issue that needs attention. Your best bet is to remove the wheel and inspect for pad thickness and rotor damage. If the rotor appears undamaged you can just replace the pads. If it is heavily gouged or cracked a replacement is in order. Replacement is similar to the front. Don't forget to not set your parking brake, otherwise you'll never get the rotor off...lol.
Thanks.....I'll pop off the rear tires in a bit and check it out. I hope I can get to the bottom of this grinding noise. I am assuming it is the braking system since I only hear it when I apply pressure to the brake pedal. If it is the pads is there a way to change them without getting air into the hydraulic lines? I guess I am asking if there's a way to change the pads without having to bleed the system. I find this difficult since I am a one-man show.
Thanks.....I'll pop off the rear tires in a bit and check it out. I hope I can get to the bottom of this grinding noise. I am assuming it is the braking system since I only hear it when I apply pressure to the brake pedal. If it is the pads is there a way to change them without getting air into the hydraulic lines? I guess I am asking if there's a way to change the pads without having to bleed the system. I find this difficult since I am a one-man show.
Yep, you'll be able to change the pads just fine without getting air in the system. You'll most likely be able to just undo one slide pin bolt and rotate the caliper clear of the rotor (which one, or both, depends on how your brake lines are routed). You may have to compress your calipers pistons though to make room for the new pads to fit over the rotor. They sell a tool to do this, but I just use a large C-clamp and one of the old brake pads to do it. When you do this be sure to crack the cap on your brake resevoir and keep an eye on the fluid level to make sure it doesn't overflow. Brake fluid can cause a lot of damage to paint and other materials!
Under normal circumstance I think the only way air can get in the system is if one of the brake lines are disconnected. As far as brake maintenance the only time you should have to bleed the system is if you replace a caliper or line. However, it's not a bad idea to flush and bleed your lines once in a while. I have new rotors and pads all around, now I need to flush and bleed my brake lines.
Air can only enter through a leak in the fluid system. Either changing caliper, hose or master cylinder or if the piston seal in the caliper has a leak. They make a "one man bleeder" or you can make one out of a soda bottle and a piece of tubing. It's not a bad idea to flush it out every few years as brake fluid is subjected to severe heat and is also hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water and holds it in suspension. That's why you never use brake fluid that hasn't been sealed well or that you don't know how it was stored. Boiling water in brake fluid=BAD.
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