Now what????
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 83
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From: Central Coast, Calif.
Now what????
So I went ahead and adjusted the lifters, put new points and rotor and now the truck doesn't have the loud ticking anymore, but instead has a bad miss at lower RPM's. The miss is real bad with a load on the engine. During idle it appears smooth, however as soon as you put it in gear it gets a terrible miss to the engine. At higher speeds the truck appears to run pretty good. The motor is a 300 I6 in a 70 ford F100. Before I did the work the truck ran pretty good, but had a loud ticking coming from the lifters and no miss. I put in points from Mexico?? and set the gap .027 Spark plugs wires are on correctly, so what did I do wrong??
Just a shade tree mechanic so I'm sure I did something wrong.
Thanks for the advice.
Jim
Just a shade tree mechanic so I'm sure I did something wrong.
Thanks for the advice.
Jim
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
plugs set @ .034 and timing is set at 6*BTDC with vacuum line off dizzy and plugged. If it a single vacuum advance point set @.027..If a double vacuum advance point set @.025 .. Your valves still may be too tight..My book shows valve lash for the LIGHT DUTY 1968-71 300 I-6 Intake is .082 & Exh. .152 ......orich
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Central Coast, Calif.
I was also thinking about over adjusting the valves. I did it three times making sure I went to zero lash, and 1/2 turn more. Since the truck didn't miss prior to the adjustment I'm thinking valves. I wasn't to impressed with the new points I got. They seem to be pretty cheap (made in mexico)and I was wondering if they may have something to do with the miss. I also found the vaccum line off the transmission module and was hoping that was the problem, however once I hooked it up it still misses.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 54
From: Antelope Valley ,CA
+1 also did you replace condensor ? if not do so they cause weirdo problems when they fail
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Did you test the dizzy vacuum advance for leakage. many guys over look this thinking they last for ever. Just about everything US vehicle ignition stuff has been made in Mexico for many years now. As long as the points seat even on the contact points is good. If not you may need to tweak them a little. Remember first set points then set engine dizzy timing 6*BFTDC.
..orich
..orich
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Antelope Valley ,CA
Oh and don't mix up the screws for the points , if you put a long one where a short goes it will lock up your advance plate .
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Central Coast, Calif.
Thanks for the ideas. I'm thinking it's not the vacuum advance because the truck ran good before the valves. I have the correct screws in the points and also put in a new condenser. So the question is, can I go back in and just loosen the valves a little or do I have to start the whole procedure over? ie: firing order ??
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Kingston, Pa. 18704
I personally like to set the lash with the engine running.
Back it off till you here it clatter, tighten until the clatter stops and then go another 1/4 turn from there.
I've cut holes in valve covers and also used those clips on the rocker arms to prevent oil from splashing every where.
You can also do them in any order you want with the engine stopped as long as both valves are closed and you are on the base circle if the cam.
Keep in mind this is for hydraulic lifters only. Mechanical lifters get set with engine warmed up, a feeler gauge and the engine off.
Back it off till you here it clatter, tighten until the clatter stops and then go another 1/4 turn from there.
I've cut holes in valve covers and also used those clips on the rocker arms to prevent oil from splashing every where.
You can also do them in any order you want with the engine stopped as long as both valves are closed and you are on the base circle if the cam.
Keep in mind this is for hydraulic lifters only. Mechanical lifters get set with engine warmed up, a feeler gauge and the engine off.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Central Coast, Calif.
the valves are hydraulic, I did it with the engine off. Went by the firing order and making sure the rotor was pointing at the firing cylinder. I can't seem to tell when the valves are closed? So even though the valves are close to being right, just backing them off a few turns would not work?? Should I back off the rocker before starting over. I tried with the engine running , but was hard for me to tell which valves were clattering and which ones were not.
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