Jag
Temp Gauge issue
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Temp Gauge issue
1951 Ford F1 – 239 Flathead V8 – 12 Volt System reduced to 6 Volt for the gauges
I am have a little bit of an issue with my temp gauge. Currently the temp gauge is pinned to the hot side of the gauge. From what I have read on different forums, this is the proper position when the key is off, correct?
My second issue is when I connect a wire to one of my temp sender units, the gauge slowly moves from H to the middle like it is supposed to. When it gets ¼ of the way past the H reading, the gauge acts like its sticking and will not go any further. The motor is off and hasn’t been run in a few days so I know the temp cannot be hot. Is there any way that I can oil the gauge or take it apart to fix this “sticking issue”?
<o
Thanks. </o
I am have a little bit of an issue with my temp gauge. Currently the temp gauge is pinned to the hot side of the gauge. From what I have read on different forums, this is the proper position when the key is off, correct?
My second issue is when I connect a wire to one of my temp sender units, the gauge slowly moves from H to the middle like it is supposed to. When it gets ¼ of the way past the H reading, the gauge acts like its sticking and will not go any further. The motor is off and hasn’t been run in a few days so I know the temp cannot be hot. Is there any way that I can oil the gauge or take it apart to fix this “sticking issue”?
<o
Thanks. </o
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I am using one of these. It came in my conversion kit.
12 volt - 6 volt Oil, Gas, Temp Vintage Gauge Reducer
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I am using one of these. It came in my conversion kit.
12 volt - 6 volt Oil, Gas, Temp Vintage Gauge Reducer
12 volt - 6 volt Oil, Gas, Temp Vintage Gauge Reducer
Might I add it works very well too. I have tested it, and it truly does read 6.7 volts. Its a nifty little device.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
I have a similar type. They are very stable.
Do you know if the gauge worked properly when it was on "real" 6v?
There is an adjustment port on the back of the gauge, looks like the kind of adjustment old wind-up watches had. The port is usually covered by a round sticker. The picture below is of an oil pressure sender, but the gauges work on similar principles, there is a wire winding that heats a bimetal strip that moves the needle. You can get some adjustment, but it sounds like you're a long ways from where it should be. Could be the sender or the gauge is bad. If the sender body, dash panel, or engine block is not grounded completely, you'll get bogus readings. If you just painted your dash, the problem may be there.
Do you know if the gauge worked properly when it was on "real" 6v?
There is an adjustment port on the back of the gauge, looks like the kind of adjustment old wind-up watches had. The port is usually covered by a round sticker. The picture below is of an oil pressure sender, but the gauges work on similar principles, there is a wire winding that heats a bimetal strip that moves the needle. You can get some adjustment, but it sounds like you're a long ways from where it should be. Could be the sender or the gauge is bad. If the sender body, dash panel, or engine block is not grounded completely, you'll get bogus readings. If you just painted your dash, the problem may be there.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2012
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I have a similar type. They are very stable.
Do you know if the gauge worked properly when it was on "real" 6v?
There is an adjustment port on the back of the gauge, looks like the kind of adjustment old wind-up watches had. The port is usually covered by a round sticker. The picture below is of an oil pressure sender, but the gauges work on similar principles, there is a wire winding that heats a bimetal strip that moves the needle. You can get some adjustment, but it sounds like you're a long ways from where it should be. Could be the sender or the gauge is bad. If the sender body, dash panel, or engine block is not grounded completely, you'll get bogus readings. If you just painted your dash, the problem may be there.
Do you know if the gauge worked properly when it was on "real" 6v?
There is an adjustment port on the back of the gauge, looks like the kind of adjustment old wind-up watches had. The port is usually covered by a round sticker. The picture below is of an oil pressure sender, but the gauges work on similar principles, there is a wire winding that heats a bimetal strip that moves the needle. You can get some adjustment, but it sounds like you're a long ways from where it should be. Could be the sender or the gauge is bad. If the sender body, dash panel, or engine block is not grounded completely, you'll get bogus readings. If you just painted your dash, the problem may be there.
ALB,
No i am not sure if it worked or not. When I got the truck, the wiring was pretty much shot, so I didn't even mess with it. I ripped it all out and started fresh. All of the power and grounds are very clean so I know those aren't the issues. I will check the gauge tonight and see what it looks like. Heck maybe even a little silicone lube will do the trick. What do you think?
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
You can take the whole gauge cluster out pretty easily, and take the temp gauge unit out of the pod. At that point I might consider well placed lubrication, very sparingly, but just spraying silicone in thru the back hole is not likely to do any good, and will likely do harm.
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You can take the whole gauge cluster out pretty easily, and take the temp gauge unit out of the pod. At that point I might consider well placed lubrication, very sparingly, but just spraying silicone in thru the back hole is not likely to do any good, and will likely do harm.
I agree, taking the individual gauges out is pretty simple. Say for instance as what you are talking about, the lube doesnt work. Do they sell individual gauges that will fit in there? The truck is not restored and I do not want to buy new gauges because it will be wasted money when I do go and restore the truck. I am just looking for a cheap alternative that will still work. Thanks.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
"Restore" = original gauges that work properly
If you are thinking of going to aftermarket gauges later, then just use a cheap mechanical gauge on whichever bank your prefer. Mount it under the dash.
If you are thinking of going to aftermarket gauges later, then just use a cheap mechanical gauge on whichever bank your prefer. Mount it under the dash.
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Yeah I guess I could restore them, although from the earlier posts and what I've read online, they aren't an easy thing to do. Am I correct?
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