Voltage Regulator
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Voltage Regulator
Ok, I have this problem. When I turn my lights on after driving even they are dimmer at idle, but when I give it some gas and get the rpm's going they brighten. I could live with that, but at a red light at night idling in D with the vent motor on the blinkers were a little slower and the lights a little dimmer, but it still blinked . Then ever since I got my a/c fixed when the a/c is on at a red light in D idling with the lights on she doesent blink at all and if she does its after about 15 seconds and then she blinks extremely slow to where its not even a blinker. I just changed the battery to an Interstate 800 CA and the alternator has been on there since i bought it when i was 15, what could it be?
btw....I changed the flashers and the ammeter doesent work in my cluster
btw....I changed the flashers and the ammeter doesent work in my cluster
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Joined: Sep 2001
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Voltage Regulator
Have the alternator and regulator tested at a parts store. Most stores have the equipment and will do it for free. They would rather sell you the part you actually need than a part that you don't need only to have you come back with the same problem, -unhappy...
Check all of your power connections also.
Check all of your power connections also.
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Voltage Regulator
Thanks a lot Torque. I don't think we say it enough here and I dont know about the others, But I greatly appreciate you and Milion's vast expanse of knowledge about these old steel jewels, and this site has made me come to realize that deep down in my heart that I am an Old Ford Enthusiast more so than Ch**y which i was telling myself to deny ridicule, but when I drive my ol 78 through town they sing a different tune.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Valdivia, South of Chile
Voltage Regulator
I had a problem like that, and for a fix, I tried the following (in order of improvement level)
1) changed the light's wiring with relays to manage the current, instead of passing it trough the light switch. Got less variation in the lights with the RPMs and brighter ones.
2) changed the original voltage regulator for a transistorized one I made. (mine it's a '75 so the original was mechanic, yours could be solid state). With it the voltage was much more stable, but if I turned everything on, at idle the voltage dropped slowly.
3) changed my original 38Amp
alternator for a *much* bigger GM alternator.
The alternator swap was *the* fix for all my charging problems. Have in mind that the alternator's current rating is at high RPM, so at idle it will be much lower. For example, my CS-130D is rated at 100A, but at idle it puts only 40-45Amps. And it's even worse with the older alternators as their low RPM efficiency is lower.
Now I can sit in the traffic idleing for long with wipers, vent fan, lights and radio on, and the voltage stays rock solid
.
1) changed the light's wiring with relays to manage the current, instead of passing it trough the light switch. Got less variation in the lights with the RPMs and brighter ones.
2) changed the original voltage regulator for a transistorized one I made. (mine it's a '75 so the original was mechanic, yours could be solid state). With it the voltage was much more stable, but if I turned everything on, at idle the voltage dropped slowly.
3) changed my original 38Amp
alternator for a *much* bigger GM alternator. The alternator swap was *the* fix for all my charging problems. Have in mind that the alternator's current rating is at high RPM, so at idle it will be much lower. For example, my CS-130D is rated at 100A, but at idle it puts only 40-45Amps. And it's even worse with the older alternators as their low RPM efficiency is lower.
Now I can sit in the traffic idleing for long with wipers, vent fan, lights and radio on, and the voltage stays rock solid
.
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