First off let me introduce myself. My name is Jim, I was on this site three or four years ago and ya'll helped out a lot. Hoping you can again
The truck: '02 F350 SWR 7.3L 4x4 Crew Cab Lariat w/ just over 290k miles

Now the problem: Recently i've been having some electrical issues in the cab of the truck. Symptoms: Radio shuts off completely (no power whatsoever-not even the clock). When this happens, the dome lights (not the big one but the two on the outside of the large one with the overhead switches) will not turn on either, and the power windows also stop working. It happens randomly, and everything will stay "powerless" from anywhere to a couple of seconds to a couple of hours. Shutting the truck off and cycling the key doesn't help, as nothing really does. I've basically just been stuck waiting for the power to come back. Its not really a big issue, but definitely frustrating...especially when the windows get stuck down and it starts raining. I've checked the wiring behind the stereo, both passenger and driver side switch panels, fuses, and i'm now at a loss for the most part. I'm gonna check the wiring in the rubber conduit in the door jams next but after that i have no clue. Has anyone else had this problem and has the possible solution, or is there anybody that has some other ideas to what could be wrong?

 

Jim, Welcome to FTE
Not sure on the location but I would be looking for an accessory
control relay.
Sorry I can't be of more help

You might try the guys over in the 7.3L forum

Sean

 

Alright thanks Sean. It's been awhile since I've been on here thought that's where I was putting this thread up. Lol I'll have to copy it over there.

 

I just posted almost the same issue. it could be the accessory control behind the gauge cluster or the relay in the fuse panel. this would be the relay center bottom assuming the 02 is the same as the 03. yesterday I went to check mine out and low and behold it decided not to work. now don't that beat all. I pulled relay and put it back in turn the key and it took a few seconds to turn on. I have'nt changed the relay yet but cheap place to start. hope this helps

 

I have a similiar issue 2000 F250 7.3L crew 4x4. Started it up this morning, moved it from the barn to the driveway no issue. Went to start it and it would not start, but I could hear the flasher relay clicking like crazy.

 

I decided to disconnect the batteries and put a charger on each. While the batteries were disconnected I took out the flasher relay and reinstalled it and then disconnected and reconnected the wiring harness from the PCM (saw this on another thread here). After reconnecting the batteries it started up without issue.

 

Reading up on some other forums, I've discovered this is a really common problem. Almost overly common, especially with no definite fix. If anyone else is having the same problem, I've read that there is a "battery saver relay" inside of the instrument cluster control module which keeps your windows and radio going after you turn off the vehicle. This relay supplies power to the central Junction Box and to the Accessory Delay Relay which you can apparently jump with some wire and it will work. I'm not sure if this will work but i'm gonna give it a shot tonight and i'll let ya'll know.

 

The downside to the 02+ trucks is once that goes bad you need to replace the whole cluster. You can get a used unit or have yours re-built. Ford charges 600.00 for a reman cluster, you need to send the old one in with the vin so they can transfer the miles. An eBay unit or used one will always display the mileage of the donor truck. If you don't mind them being off you can get a used one on eBay for under 200.00. Manual truck clusters will work just fine too. The difference is the manual trucks had a volt gauge in place of the trans temp.

 

Ya that's what I hear, unfortunately. In one way I hope that's not the problem just due to cost but on the other hand kinda hope it is cause at least then I know the problem. Kinda a bitter sweet deal if ya ask me.

 

So solution half *** found as mentioned before. Measured voltage on fuse #41 and wasn't getting a reading at all, checked the accessory relay (#306). Relay checked out and is working properly, so I measured the voltage in the bottom slot, measured 12.84V. Tried jumping the relay using bailing wire, and bam! Everything working. Leads me to believe its the ICM. So I used an alligator clamp and jumped onto an ignition wire to bypass the relay. now everytime I turn on the key everything works, key off nothing works...not necessarily the right way to fix it but definitely works and definitely cheaper!!

 

Have a look at the back side of that panel to see
if any water got on it. There is some thing
about the older trucks and wet fuse panels that I have
read somewhere. It would be worth looking onto.

Sean

 

if anybody else is having this problem this is how I fixed it,
uploaded a bunch of pics and a step by step to a powerstroke forum located here: (screen name is same as this forum)

Radio and windows stopped working... - Page 9 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

I have been battling the same issue for 1 month now!!!! The dealer first replaced the starter solenoid and possible loose wires, then last week, they replaced the shifter bearings because the gear shifter was not registering that the truck was in gear, therefore no start! 2 days after I get the truck out of the dealership, I'm with my son 120 miles north of where we live just to have 2 dead batteries, I bought them only 1 year ago. So needless to say, I got 2 brand new batteries, and now just yesterday, my 7.3 stopped working again!!! the truck cycles through like it wants to start, glow plug lights, cab lights, dash lights, etc. however, the truck won't turn over and the dash also starts to flicker and click like crazy! We will wait to see what the diagnosis is this time!! I've got over 2K wrapped up in repairs that aren't corrected yet. When they tell me what it is this time, I'll re post and hope that is the final fix....then hopefully this helps you out.

 

Don't know if this will help but have a look at the cables and grounds.
Sometimes a cable will look good and be bad under the insulation.
The best way to check any cable is with a voltage drop test.
Here is a good how to on voltage drop test for starter cables
this will work for any cable.

Here is a second video on testing voltage and testing

Good luck

Sean

 

Now they are telling me that after the drop test/load test they ran the alternator on a different test. Supposedly that is the issue now. All the times prior the alternator never read negative, now it failed. So there is more money down, hopefully that is the final fix. They ran it on a 40 something test.....maybe a 40 battery test? I don't remember what they called it but they said that is what they were able to determine it was.

Long story short, I had the same issues as you and this is what the dealership told me.