I'm trying to find the FOMOCO part number for the Silver and Gold remote start/alarm system for my 2005 Expedition EB. Ford.com does not go back farther than 2007 and google and this forum has not yielded the result either.
I've seen it referred to as RKE/RSS/VSS for the Gold system.

Please post if you happen to know the Ford part number or a good place to find it.
Thanks,

 

I have a renewed interest in this. Since there was no response and my searches yielded nothing, I'm thinking it might be a better idea to go ahead with an aftermarket remote start. The though of all original wiring and key fobs was enticing, but may not be possible now that the truck is so old.
Any opinions out there? What system works best? What is easiest to install?
Thanks.

 

After market systems are leaps and bounds ahead of the factory ones. I bought one that was a RS, keyless entry and alarm for under a $100 and it came with 2 LCD 2-way remotes and a 1/4 mile range. The nice thing about the 2-way feature is you know that it started or if someone broke into your vehicle. The only downside to an after market system is you have to go that extra step and bypass the PATS.

Here the one I use.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161053074681?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Thanks. That looks just right. The wife should love it.

 

Once it's all installed let your insurance company know and they'll give a few bucks of the comprehension portion of your bill. It's not a lot, but hey, even 10 bucks is 10 bucks...right!

You'll need to get a pin or magnetic switch for the hood since those kits don't come with one. Some people don't bother installing one, but I do, both because it will trigger the alarm and because it automatically disables the RS from kicking in if the hood is open. Don't want some stray radio signal activating the RS while our hands are down next to the fan, now do we!

You'll also need one of these bypass modules.
DEI 556SW - Remote Start Experts

 

Before giving up on the Ford parts, contact these guys: http://www.greensalescompany.com/ They specialize in Ford parts that are no longer in Ford's system.

For PATS bypass, you have three basic options:

1) Programmable bypass module (~$35, no key needed)
2) Universal bypass module + a valid, programmed key (~$10-15 + your key).
3) Redneck bypass (valid key(head) zip-tied to the inside of the transceiver ring then stuffed up under the dash) (~$0.05 plus your key).

 

Alloro, my kit came with a hood pin switch. But mounting it in the rail on the side of the hood compartment won't work. The hood has a "trough" built into it and it the pin won't reach the hood. Where do you like to put yours? My pin switch is adjustable from about 1" to 3" tall.

Isn't there a switch built into the vehicle? Mine doesn't have a hood light, but I've seen a navigator with a hood light that comes on when the hood is raised. My wirecolor.com chart makes reference to a blue/orange wire at the hood switch connector for the "Hood pin" input. I would much rather splice into a factory switch than mount my own.

 

That's a "tilt" switch, not a pin switch, that activates the under hood light on vehicles so equipped.

 

Where is the tilt switch? Does it wire in to the vehicle harness, or is it just part of the hood light? I wouldn't mind using it as an input even if I had to wire up a relay for a switched ground, rather than mounting the pin switch that came with my kit.

 

I don't use pin switches, the contacts are unreliable. I use a reed magnetic alarm contact switch because they are sealed. You need one where the contacts are open when next to the magnet.

 

Yes, it's built into the hood bulb socket.

 

I like those magentic switches you referenced, alloro. For now I installed the pin switch that came with the kit, but I'm going to order the magnetic switch to replace it. Good idea. I remember dealing with some of those on a home alarm system install. Very simple and should last.

 

Which wire has the negative pulse when the keyfob lock signal is sent?


The last step to completing my install is wiring the activation wire. This has proven difficult to find the correct information. We prefered to keep the factory key fobs and forgo the convenience of a two way system. So I am using the factory keyless entry system to actuate the remote start with three negative (ground) pulses from the door lock.

My documentation says to use a pink/yellow wire in the driver's kick panel. Unfortunately, that wire only receives the pulses from the actual door lock switch, not the remote. My web research has uncovered a difference between vehicles with factory keyless entry and vehicles without (mine has factory keyless). Over at the the12volt.com, they refer to the system without keyless entry as using a 5 wire system to the door locks, and something different on the vehicles with keyless entry, but do not say what it is. One post said to look for a white/red wire on the gray connector at the VSM/BSM. I found a white wire with a violet or pink stripe, but not red, and it doesn't appear to have the negative pulse signal I need when tested with a meter. Other posts also say to use a pink/black wire, but that is the most prolific wire in the vehicle. I am afraid of poking any more holes in the wiring harness to probe these wires.

Does anyone know, definitively, what color wire I can find a negative pulse on when the factory keyless entry is actuated, and where to find it? I prefer not to have to run a wire all the way over to the passenger side at the VSM/BSM if it can be found at the driver's kick panel. The e-brake covers up the harness going to the door and I can't figure out which wire bundle goes up there either. I suppose the next step is to take the door apart and test the wiring in there directly, if no one has any insight.

This image shows the gray plug a the VSM and identifies the Lock/Unlock wires. I believe I need the "Door Lock Motor" wire. Which one is it?


Thanks...

 

The lock pulse to the door lock/unlock actuator is positive not negative. It's the larger PK/BK wire shown in your picture. If you definitely need a negative pulse you'll have to use a relay to change the pulse polarity. BTW, the larger RD/OG wire is the second side of the driver's door actuator and the PK/OG is for the other doors.

 

OK! That helps a lot. Now a little more clarification, please...
For the driver door: PK/BK gets a +12V pulse to lock, and RD/OG just stays - (gnd)? Or do they flip back and forth for lock/unlock? If so, shouldn't RD/OG be a - pulse with driver lock? Then for unlock RD/OG would be a + pulse and PK/BK would be -?

I can't confirm any of this with my meter. I see the +12v pulse on lock on the PK/BK, but the RD/OG wire is either resting at some floating voltage or getting a signal I can't decipher with the meter.