Need Advice please
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
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From: TX
Need Advice please
2007 6.0L Diesel in a F350 Dually 154,000 miles
Having issues. Last fall blew head gasket. Ford dealer replaced along with assoc damaged components. Replaced stock head bolts with what dealer called "racing" bolts.
Then, in May, had cracked rear engine cover repaired. At same time hubby had installed a SCT EGR delete kit. Loved the power.
Last week had to replace Up Pipes and a melted/shorted turbo actuator.
Picked up truck yesterday. Today we have a pretty loud whistle sound when accelerator pressed. Called shop, says maybe a gasket is leaking. I ask if it could be one of the several they just replaced. Understanably, they saytheyhave to look at it. But then they launch into a long litany of otber things and how once youfix one thing others are under pressure and we could have an.exhaust leak now etc..... Frankly, I have given Ford and this shop nearly everydime I have to fix this truck. I have no more
What isthe real likelyhood of a new prob? Thanks!!
Having issues. Last fall blew head gasket. Ford dealer replaced along with assoc damaged components. Replaced stock head bolts with what dealer called "racing" bolts.
Then, in May, had cracked rear engine cover repaired. At same time hubby had installed a SCT EGR delete kit. Loved the power.
Last week had to replace Up Pipes and a melted/shorted turbo actuator.
Picked up truck yesterday. Today we have a pretty loud whistle sound when accelerator pressed. Called shop, says maybe a gasket is leaking. I ask if it could be one of the several they just replaced. Understanably, they saytheyhave to look at it. But then they launch into a long litany of otber things and how once youfix one thing others are under pressure and we could have an.exhaust leak now etc..... Frankly, I have given Ford and this shop nearly everydime I have to fix this truck. I have no more
What isthe real likelyhood of a new prob? Thanks!!
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 907
Likes: 2
From: Jackson, TN
If it didn't have the noise before the up pipes were replaced, then I would say it is a good possibility that it is something they did. I would suspect one of the connections at the back of the turbo, especially where the y-pipe is clamped onto the turbo.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: TX
Sorry, wasn't clear. The engine cover, egr delete and up pipes were done at local shop. The one thing that really is bugging me is how bad they are saying this engine is overall - not just mine.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Agreed. Have all the plumbing checked. Regardless it still needs repaired.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
I AM a Ford diesel mechanic who works at a Ford dealer, and also happens to own a 2007 6.0L F-250.
Now that we've cleared that. I agree with what was mentioned above, about a possibly improperly seated up-pipe connection to the turbo or somewhere, if it occured directly after the repair. Whistling under load most definitely means either an intake leak, or exhaust leak, post-exhaust manifold/pre-turbo and/or post-turbo/pre-intake manifold. Although if I were the tech doing the repair and noticed this, I would have done what was needed to correct it before releasing the vehicle back. Therefore, I generally never hear the infamous "EVER SINCE YOU did my oil change my radio doesn't work" type lines from customers. But if it didn't occur directly after your up-pipe replacement, it's quite possible your black plastic cold side charge air cooler tube has now ruptured, and/or one of the blue rubber hot side charge air cooler hoses has cracked. Those are my best "guesses" by what you describe, behind my keyboard.
Now that we've cleared that. I agree with what was mentioned above, about a possibly improperly seated up-pipe connection to the turbo or somewhere, if it occured directly after the repair. Whistling under load most definitely means either an intake leak, or exhaust leak, post-exhaust manifold/pre-turbo and/or post-turbo/pre-intake manifold. Although if I were the tech doing the repair and noticed this, I would have done what was needed to correct it before releasing the vehicle back. Therefore, I generally never hear the infamous "EVER SINCE YOU did my oil change my radio doesn't work" type lines from customers. But if it didn't occur directly after your up-pipe replacement, it's quite possible your black plastic cold side charge air cooler tube has now ruptured, and/or one of the blue rubber hot side charge air cooler hoses has cracked. Those are my best "guesses" by what you describe, behind my keyboard.
Post Fiend
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 13,710
Likes: 5
From: Manchester, CT
I know you work at a dealer, and I'd let you work on my truck, but at least around here, there isn't a single dealer I'd bring my 6.0 too.
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Fleet Mechanic
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what I like is when a reputable Ford service advisor tells you about another Ford dealership to take your diesel to because they specialize in diesel repairs.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
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From: TX
I AM a Ford diesel mechanic who works at a Ford dealer, and also happens to own a 2007 6.0L F-250.
Now that we've cleared that. I agree with what was mentioned above, about a possibly improperly seated up-pipe connection to the turbo or somewhere, if it occured directly after the repair. Whistling under load most definitely means either an intake leak, or exhaust leak, post-exhaust manifold/pre-turbo and/or post-turbo/pre-intake manifold. Although if I were the tech doing the repair and noticed this, I would have done what was needed to correct it before releasing the vehicle back. Therefore, I generally never hear the infamous "EVER SINCE YOU did my oil change my radio doesn't work" type lines from customers. But if it didn't occur directly after your up-pipe replacement, it's quite possible your black plastic cold side charge air cooler tube has now ruptured, and/or one of the blue rubber hot side charge air cooler hoses has cracked. Those are my best "guesses" by what you describe, behind my keyboard.
Now that we've cleared that. I agree with what was mentioned above, about a possibly improperly seated up-pipe connection to the turbo or somewhere, if it occured directly after the repair. Whistling under load most definitely means either an intake leak, or exhaust leak, post-exhaust manifold/pre-turbo and/or post-turbo/pre-intake manifold. Although if I were the tech doing the repair and noticed this, I would have done what was needed to correct it before releasing the vehicle back. Therefore, I generally never hear the infamous "EVER SINCE YOU did my oil change my radio doesn't work" type lines from customers. But if it didn't occur directly after your up-pipe replacement, it's quite possible your black plastic cold side charge air cooler tube has now ruptured, and/or one of the blue rubber hot side charge air cooler hoses has cracked. Those are my best "guesses" by what you describe, behind my keyboard.
We have the SCT scanner that came with the EGR delete kit, would it give us an idea of where the leak is?
Also, I seem to read about a lot of issues after EGR delete ( up pipes, flex,etc)... Is there that much extra work being asked of these components?
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
I don't think the EGR delete is causing significant stress on any of the remaining parts.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Thank you. Yes, the noise started the day after we picked it up. Drove maybe 100-150 miles between picking it up and the noise starting. I know machines ( not diesel) and to me, the most likely is that something was not seated properly during the repair. I do understand that other things can occur sometimes too.
With any aftermarket, non-factory original part that will be quality of fitment issues, times more often than not. As far as pinpointing the source of your leak is concerned (according to your description), I fail to see how an electronic device being connected to your vehicle's data link connector is going to have anything remotely to do with detecting an obvious mechanical issue. But to answer your question, my suggestion would be to have an assistant rev up the engine to about 3000 RPMs while you, or your husband crawl up and around and under the engine with a piece of paper held around various areas described in my above post.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: TX
You will most often hear this kind of talk from mechanics who don't know a lot about the 6.0 diesel. They are "parroting" common wisdom. There are some issues to be sure and proper diagnosis and repair can be frustrating if you don't understand the basics of this particular engine. Even if the shop is honest and wants to repair it correctly the first time that may not happen due to a lack of knowledge, and they blame the truck.
I don't think the EGR delete is causing significant stress on any of the remaining parts.
I don't think the EGR delete is causing significant stress on any of the remaining parts.
Thanks Rusty. I am wondering about it the "parroting" as you said myself. Does not inspire confidence. If they tell us it is something else, we will get a second opinion. A friend of our today, as we told him our woes, told us about his mechanic who has worked on all of his vehicles satisfactorily for years, including the 6.0L.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
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From: TX
Don't take this the wrong way, but why did you drive it that far after picking it up, instead of bringing it back right away to the shop that did the work?
With any aftermarket, non-factory original part that will be quality of fitment issues, times more often than not. As far as pinpointing the source of your leak is concerned (according to your description), I fail to see how an electronic device being connected to your vehicle's data link connector is going to have anything remotely to do with detecting an obvious mechanical issue. But to answer your question, my suggestion would be to have an assistant rev up the engine to about 3000 RPMs while you, or your husband crawl up and around and under the engine with a piece of paper held around various areas described in my above post.
With any aftermarket, non-factory original part that will be quality of fitment issues, times more often than not. As far as pinpointing the source of your leak is concerned (according to your description), I fail to see how an electronic device being connected to your vehicle's data link connector is going to have anything remotely to do with detecting an obvious mechanical issue. But to answer your question, my suggestion would be to have an assistant rev up the engine to about 3000 RPMs while you, or your husband crawl up and around and under the engine with a piece of paper held around various areas described in my above post.
Uhhhh, it drove fine for the first 100-150 miles ( not sure the exact mileage, hence the range given), THEN it started making the noise. We contacted the shop within minutes of the noise starting. Due to logistics, it will have to sit in the driveway until Monday before we can take it back.
I understood the SCT tuner to also be able to read codes? I was wondering if there would be a code that would specify where the leak might be occuring, or do you just have to "find" it?
Thanks!
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 907
Likes: 2
From: Jackson, TN
Uhhhh, it drove fine for the first 100-150 miles ( not sure the exact mileage, hence the range given), THEN it started making the noise. We contacted the shop within minutes of the noise starting. Due to logistics, it will have to sit in the driveway until Monday before we can take it back.
I understood the SCT tuner to also be able to read codes? I was wondering if there would be a code that would specify where the leak might be occuring, or do you just have to "find" it?
Thanks!
I understood the SCT tuner to also be able to read codes? I was wondering if there would be a code that would specify where the leak might be occuring, or do you just have to "find" it?
Thanks!
