Hello FTE Friends,
Though I do log in from time to time it's been a while since I've made any inquiries. Here we go…

Had a PET scan done Friday the 14th of June. On the afternoon of the 18th, the doctor called with the results.
"Keep doing what you’re doing Mr. Serrano. Don't change a thing. Your scan is squeaky clean." - I'm sorry, but I can't help the smile...

Thank you, thank you thank you for keeping me in your thoughts and prayers.
Thank you Lord

In the meantime somehow I've managed to put 1902 miles on the truck (I must like going to the grocery store a lot!) 'cause she's never gone further than 50 miles (one way) doctor appointments - right...

Well on the last week of June I drive my truck – about 40 miles to have it DynoTuned - I'm working on a short video clip for your viewing pleasure - and on the way home I'm grinning from ear to ear because the engine is purring – right

Suddenly all power is lost. After a less than 10 mile tow home, I discover that the distributor gear stripped.

I learned A LOT – it makes sense too – about distributors, their function, their gears et cetera; so after replacing the distributor gear with a new one, less than 25 miles later, I find myself being towed home AGAIN

After more research, I learn that the distributor gear material (the stuff it’s made of) should match the material of the CAM.

Now, a new CAM kit with its own distributor gear from the manufacturer is going in.

It's taken me a week to compose and bring myself - on hands and knees - to you for answers...

FIRST and MOST IMPORTANT, what could be the root cause of this? I don't want to have to do this over and over – right

Is there a reason why Professional Products' PowerFire distributor (Powerfire Distributor Ford 351W) may be incompatible with CompCams Camshft (COMP Cams: Camshafts) that I'm not aware of and should know?

Could damage have been done that requires the overhaul of the engine?

Do I NEED to buy a new MSD distributor to go to Lowe's, Home Depot and doctor appointments on my truck (50 miles one way once a month)?

Do I need to have the entire engine rebuilt again?

What could be the root cause of this?

Any tried and true input is greatly appreciated.

On a different note, since God is so great to me, I have been devoting my time to me, my wife, my children, my friends, my truck and photography.

If bored and wanna take a peak… go to https://www.facebook.com/pages/Its-A...34157816600158 and click the “Like” button.

Disappointedly Happy,

Paul

 

What oil pump are you running?

 

At one time I had a F100 with the 300 6 cyl. That happened to me twice. I was talking to an old wrench and he said the valve stem seals were old and breaking up and getting caught in the oil pump and shearing the gear off.

Replaced the gear and seals and never had that problem again, might be something to look at.

 

I am not familiar with the Professional Products distributor but I do know that you can get the distributor gear you need directly from CompCams. In fact, they have a new line of composite gears that are designed specifically to address the wear issue in a SBF. If it were my engine, I would replace the distributor gear with the CompCams composite gear, reinstall the distributor in the engine and then check the play on the distributor shaft...if there is minimal play then you know that the cam gear is not excessively worn (in other words, it's OK to leave it in place).

As for the damage to the engine I would first off drain the oil and change the filter. Check the oil for metal debris and open the filter to see how much is in there as well. Refill the crankcase, run the engine for a short time and then drain the oil again and change the filter. This should be enough to clear out any of the metal left there from the old gears. I you don't already have one, go buy a magnetic drain plug for your oil pan...this will catch any other metal debris that may dislodge in the future. No need to contemplate a rebuild at this point in time.

I don't think that you need a higher performance distributor to make "grocery runs" in your truck but there is a lot of engineering and higher quality materials to be found in an MSD distributor over a half-price competitor.

 

I asked about the oil pump because a high-volume or high-pressure pump puts added strain on the distributor gears. It takes nothing to spin a distributor, it's the oil pump load that wears out the gears.

I agree with Charlie, get the CompCams gear and be done with it.

 

Hi Ross,
Whatever oil pump was used - I'm sorry I don't know which at the time - was brand new. Is there an improved oil pump I should be considering? Which has given you exceptional results? Should I be ordering Piston Rings Et cetera?
Paul

I just read CharlieLed's post & Ross' latest post and and happy with the suggestions. Therefore, I am making a "honey do" list. Thank you

 

Hello Paul....glad to hear about the good news part of your post!!

On the dist gear...that is a common problem...if you have a steel cam gear you'll need a steel or iron dist gear....or now...composite. I would rely on the cam manufacturer to tell you exactly which one you need. If you used a bronze gear on the distributor, it probably disintegrated its teeth on the steel cam gear, but the cam gear may be fine. Change the oil and if you can, cut open the filter to check for metal debris. If the oil pump still turns and pumps, it is probably OK as well, but metal debris can jam an oil pump gear. If the chunks are big, they'll live in the oil pickup screen just about forever.

On oil pumps, a stock oil pump is fine...there is no need for a high volume pump. The engine doesn't need extra flow unless you have a worn out engine and are trying to compensate for a bunch of oil leaking out of fat bearing clearances. Any extra just goes out of the relief valve built in to the pump. A high volume pump takes more work to turn that a stock pump.

So...if all goes well...replace the dist gear..the dist is probably OK, change the oil & filter & see if you have oil pressure!!

Dan

 

can't help with your problem but so glad to see you are doing so well!!
Take care.

 

Just wanted to say Thank you ALL for your input.

I'm still working on it - will have an update here... eventually

Paul

 

Hello FTE Friends,

Talk about Luck, Coincidence, Lack of Knowledge on my part, all of the above or whatever...

The thing is that I pulled the 351W back out, tore down all the necessary components, pulled the cam out and and found there is all kinds of sh!et going on. Okay, I may by exaggerating a bit...

The cam bearings are F'd up (maybe not as dramatic as I'm making it sound) but nevertheless the whole efn enchilada is laying out in my garage again.

I didn't want to EVER find myself doing this again, so much for that plan...

Before I begin to rebuilding all over again, I'm going to let the PROS here flood me with thoughts, ideas, suggestions even cash - lots of cash...

Was this part of the "therapy" plan?

I just wanted to throw an update out there...

Paul

 

In my professional opinion, just buy a Ford 351 crate engine and don't waste your time rebuilding. Call Monday, it could be installed by Saturday. The only engines we ever have trouble with at Bobco is the ones that have been customer supplied and "rebuilt".
I'm sorry, that is the facts. The only crate engine we ever had problems with, in 20 years of truck building, was a Chevy 350 RamJet. Valve guides went way to early and GM wouldn't back it up.
Ford crate engines freakin rock. From mild to pull the house down torque. I feel it's the best money spent.

 

Hi there,
That's a great suggestion BBKteck2. To bad it's a little too late in the game. I will definitely keep this in mind.
Paul