Engine oil selection
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
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From: Atlanta
Engine oil selection
I feel confident that this topic has been discussed ad nauseum (and I am in the process of doing searches) but in doing my research on what oil to use I came upon this page discussing the problems with new oils in old cars. Modern Oil and Vintage Engines
My question is what are people using and does this article make valid points (you never know on the internet) My first instinct said to go buy a Quaker State 10W40 but I am starting to wonder...
John
1949 F-3 w/ 239 flathead
My question is what are people using and does this article make valid points (you never know on the internet) My first instinct said to go buy a Quaker State 10W40 but I am starting to wonder...
John
1949 F-3 w/ 239 flathead
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,041
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From: Sterling CO
I ran 10w40 and 20w50 ... the front and rear main seals both leaked enough that you loose about 3 quarts around the time to change oil.
I have been using straight 30 weight (family dollar - $2.75/qt) as replacement to keep the level up, and the more 30w in there the less it leaks...
Lots of people indicate to stick with straight 30w (what ford called for originally). The more I drive mine, the more I think straight 30w is the way to go.
I have been using straight 30 weight (family dollar - $2.75/qt) as replacement to keep the level up, and the more 30w in there the less it leaks...
Lots of people indicate to stick with straight 30w (what ford called for originally). The more I drive mine, the more I think straight 30w is the way to go.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
That article is at least 5 or 6 yrs old in concept. The elimination of ZDDP is just like taking lead out of gas, detergent vs non-detergent, etc., lots of "sky is falling" fearmongers. For sure, certain engines are apparently very sensitive to new oils, but flatheads are not. Flatheads have valve spring pressures lower than most OHC riceburners. Here is a great article that is written by an actual professional engineer on the topic in general:
http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oil_myths.pdf
I just had my engine rebuilt, and used 10w30 for break-in (in early Spring), now am back to 20w50. I've also used diesel 15w40 before the rebuild but diesel additive packages aren't ideal for gas engines.
http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oil_myths.pdf
I just had my engine rebuilt, and used 10w30 for break-in (in early Spring), now am back to 20w50. I've also used diesel 15w40 before the rebuild but diesel additive packages aren't ideal for gas engines.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 291
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From: Crossville, Tennessee
John, I am so glad you brought this up. I have had that very question on my mind for a couple weeks, since I finally got mine running.
Ross, thanks for posting the article. Now I can feel more comfortable with the oil change that I need to do.
Ross, thanks for posting the article. Now I can feel more comfortable with the oil change that I need to do.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Echuca VIC Australia
My F3 is actually quite a modern vehicle to me, I mainly play with 1920s cars, some of which are still on original engines. I know people that spend huge amounts of money on special non detergent dedicated vintage oils. I run ALL of my cars on Castrol GTX 20w50 without a drama and have done many thousand of miles in them. If the carbon and sludge in the engine is at a point where modern oil will cause consumption then the engine doesn't have long to live anyway.
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From: Atlanta
Ross, from the article I would take it that you really want the most advanced oil you can manage. I'm sure opinions will vary on this but I would think a full synthetic SN grade oil with detergent(or at least not avoiding it) in a temperature appropriate grade. Maybe start with 20W50 for summer(Atlanta) and see what the oil consumption is and adjust from there.
Anybody see any issues with that logic?
Anybody see any issues with that logic?
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
John, I think anything you can buy today is far superior to the best oils that were available when our engines were made. The clearances spec'd inside the engine are based on something like straight 30wt as Bryan points out, so that's a good baseline. Multigrade (10w30, 10w40, etc) has obvious benefits for cold starting.
I can't recall ever hearing anyone who had problems with ANY oil in a flathead. I've heard of wiped cams or lifters and it's always on an engine where a reground cam, or cheap lifters of suspect quality, or some other factor is in the equation.
I can't recall ever hearing anyone who had problems with ANY oil in a flathead. I've heard of wiped cams or lifters and it's always on an engine where a reground cam, or cheap lifters of suspect quality, or some other factor is in the equation.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
"Lead substitutes" are snake oil. Lead was not good for valve seats in the first place, it corroded them. It was in gas to raise octane. Flatheads have very light seat pressures and don't need a thing. I don't know what the experience with Y-blocks is but I doubt they need hardened seats or anything special in stock configuration.
A good read:
http://www.walshcarlines.com/pdf/mec...ations.d4e.pdf
A good read:
http://www.walshcarlines.com/pdf/mec...ations.d4e.pdf
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,516
Likes: 401
From: W. Central FL.
"Lead substitutes" are snake oil. Lead was not good for valve seats in the first place, it corroded them. It was in gas to raise octane. Flatheads have very light seat pressures and don't need a thing. I don't know what the experience with Y-blocks is but I doubt they need hardened seats or anything special in stock configuration.
A good read:
http://www.walshcarlines.com/pdf/mec...ations.d4e.pdf
A good read:
http://www.walshcarlines.com/pdf/mec...ations.d4e.pdf
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
"Lead substitutes" are snake oil. Lead was not good for valve seats in the first place, it corroded them. It was in gas to raise octane. Flatheads have very light seat pressures and don't need a thing. I don't know what the experience with Y-blocks is but I doubt they need hardened seats or anything special in stock configuration.
A good read:
http://www.walshcarlines.com/pdf/mec...ations.d4e.pdf
A good read:
http://www.walshcarlines.com/pdf/mec...ations.d4e.pdf
WhenI was in highschool, I ran my (292 powered ) 57 Fairlane 500 for several years on non-lead gas with no ill effects......
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
The 55 Town Sedan I just sold has a running, Smoking 272 with 200,000 + miles. It starts and runs just fine. The valve guide seals are hard and cracked but there is no problem at all with the valves or valve seats that is not expected. Once warmed up you can only see any smoke when it is at idle for a time. Got some blow by as well. I have always run cheap 30 weight or 15w-40w truck oil in her. As I also do in the 85 Bronk. I do it different with a new or late model engine of course.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
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From: Valley Center, CA
My understanding of the modern multi-grade oils is that they give much better lubrication when you first start your engine cold. Y-blocks have a tendency to have problems getting oil to the upper end already, and if 10w-30 can get the oil flowing faster/better, I think that is the way to go. Perhaps one reason that some people use straight 30 weight is the big oil pressure reading they see on the guage at start up. Thick cold oil is harder to pump than thin cold oil so the pressure reading is high until the oil temp comes up. Multi grade should produce consistant pressure reading cold or hot. Am I wrong in my thinking on this? 
Jag
Jag