Time to replace the carb?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
They are likely talking about Methanol based drag racing fuel.
Methanol is VERY corrosive to the zinc in brass, and alcohol carbs use stainless steel components with a pure aluminum body.(not pot metal)
Gasoline is petroleum based, with 10% Ethanol added...(for now)
Ethanol plays much better with brass.
Methanol is VERY corrosive to the zinc in brass, and alcohol carbs use stainless steel components with a pure aluminum body.(not pot metal)
Gasoline is petroleum based, with 10% Ethanol added...(for now)
Ethanol plays much better with brass.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Back when we were racing motorcycles ELF had a racing fuel that would eat right through an aluminum tank or float bowl overnight.
Right after a race, the first thing we had to do was drain everything and flush it out to stop the corrosion.
That stuff smelled very strange in the exhaust too.
LOL, GOOD TIMES! (sorry for the hijack
)
Right after a race, the first thing we had to do was drain everything and flush it out to stop the corrosion.
That stuff smelled very strange in the exhaust too.
LOL, GOOD TIMES! (sorry for the hijack
)
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
Back when we were racing motorcycles ELF had a racing fuel that would eat right through an aluminum tank or float bowl overnight.
Right after a race, the first thing we had to do was drain everything and flush it out to stop the corrosion.
That stuff smelled very strange in the exhaust too.
LOL, GOOD TIMES! (sorry for the hijack)
Right after a race, the first thing we had to do was drain everything and flush it out to stop the corrosion.
That stuff smelled very strange in the exhaust too.
LOL, GOOD TIMES! (sorry for the hijack
)
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
You should check the length of the screws vs the depth of the threads. I would run the screws in lightly until they bottom and use calipers to measure the thicknesses of the cover, inc the raised rib, and the diaphragm. Then do the math to see if you have to shorten the screws. And, as someone said, the crimping tools usually have the ability to cut screws while preserving the threads. But, you should allow for some compression in you math.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
You should check the length of the screws vs the depth of the threads. I would run the screws in lightly until they bottom and use calipers to measure the thicknesses of the cover, inc the raised rib, and the diaphragm. Then do the math to see if you have to shorten the screws. And, as someone said, the crimping tools usually have the ability to cut screws while preserving the threads. But, you should allow for some compression in you math.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
Hey guys wanted to update everyone after working on the truck this weekend. The carb is now fixed! I installed the new diaphragm and went with the longer screw route. They grabbed onto the hole's threads perfectly. Drove the truck all weekend and not a single fuel leak. With that out of the way I discovered alot of leaking vacuum lines.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Good! But, you are doing as many of us have done - peeling the onion. One problem out of the way exposes a few more. But, there is an end to it all, and along the way you can have onion rings! 
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
I'm thinking I may need to replace the brake booster now. Looks like something was leaking at some point where the reservoir connects to the booster. I'm also getting a weird idle once I push in the brakes. Would a failing brake booster cause high idle by any chance?
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