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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Time to replace the carb?

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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 09:58 PM
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Time to replace the carb?

So I noticed a steady fuel leak underneath my carb's accel pump and decided to take the carb off and take a better look. While messing with the screws I noticed one screw just spun and never tighten. It seems as if the screw hole has lost its threads. Is it a sign to replace the carb? Or can I buy a part to replace this side of the carb? I'm 80% sure the carb is a Holley 4180.


I've drew a red circle around the screw with the issue.

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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 10:12 PM
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That does look like a 4180. You can replace the float bowl, which is what that screw goes into. Here's a link to one. But, for that kind of money you can probably find another 4180 as they aren't highly sought after.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
That does look like a 4180. You can replace the float bowl, which is what that screw goes into. Here's a link to one. But, for that kind of money you can probably find another 4180 as they aren't highly sought after.
I've found a few on ebay for pretty cheap. Is there any particular reason they aren't so popular? I've read online they picked up the nickname; "Holly Bomber"... as they tends to leak alot lol
 
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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 10:26 PM
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Well, in my opinion all Holleys leak. Or, maybe I should say all old Holleys leak as I'm told the new ones don't leak. But I don't see why the 4180 would leak more than a 4160 or any other Holley for that matter.

As the casting says, it was made by Holley for Motorcraft. From what little I know of them Ford redesigned the standard Holley to fit their needs, but most components like the accelerator pumps and power valves interchange.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 12:18 AM
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You could try tapping some new threads for a little larger screw into the wallowed out hole.

In fact in the top picture you posted (which I'm assuming was used for illustration and is not actually a picture of your carb) it looks like the lower right hand screw is an oversized replacement. Kind of ironic, in a way...
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 07:06 AM
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OEM's needed 'tamperproof emissions' in order to meet EPA regulations.
Capped idle mixture screws, breakaway choke cap screws, two stage powervalve, vented float bowls and a metering plate instead of replaceable jets are the things I can think of that differentiate it from a 4160.

It does have the nice annular boosters in both primary and secondary.

Accelerator pump diaphragms do tend leak after a while. and hamfisted owners crank the screws trying to stop the weep, instead of just replacing them.
I would bet the cover is now warped and will never seal right.
Ask Bill Vose how to straighten it out with a plastic hammer and a surface plate...

They DO make Helicoils that small!
Because I think I bought the very last 4180 primary bowl on the planet.
so, no. I don't think you can buy that part. (at least through normal Ford supply channels)
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 07:14 AM
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Take it apart and look down the hole. There may be some extra threads down in there, and a little bit longer screw may work. You may have to take a longer screw and use one of those wire strippers with the screw cutter to get it exactly right to make it work.

All old carbs should have a kit put in them. The fuel with the alcohol in it hates the old carbs with the old rubber parts in them. And that's all you can buy now, ethanol, and they keep raising the amount they put in it. Most of the corn fields you see now are being harvested for fuel use instead of food use.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 07:19 AM
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I forgot about warped pump covers. You really do need to check for warpage as a warped cover won't seal, as Jim said. I've been able to sand them flat by using sandpaper on a piece of plate glass.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 07:26 AM
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The covers don't warp by themselves.
They get overtightened when the diaphragm loses its resiliency.
Check to make sure you are not sanding off the ridge that holds the rubber in place.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
The covers don't warp by themselves.
They get overtightened when the diaphragm loses its resiliency.
Check to make sure you are not sanding off the ridge that holds the rubber in place.
True, on both counts. A badly warped cover might require removal of the ridge to flatten and that wouldn't be good. Do the covers interchange with other Holleys?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 07:39 AM
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They are the same as 30cc 4150-60 AFAIK.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Brnfree
You could try tapping some new threads for a little larger screw into the wallowed out hole.

In fact in the top picture you posted (which I'm assuming was used for illustration and is not actually a picture of your carb) it looks like the lower right hand screw is an oversized replacement. Kind of ironic, in a way...
Correct the top picture I found online, was a bit better quality for you guys to look at. The second picture however is my carb, you can see the dampness underneath the accel pump.

Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Accelerator pump diaphragms do tend leak after a while. and hamfisted owners crank the screws trying to stop the weep, instead of just replacing them.
I would bet the cover is now warped and will never seal right.
Ask Bill Vose how to straighten it out with a plastic hammer and a surface plate...

They DO make Helicoils that small!
I'm really thankful for all the responses and suggestions guys! I'm going to try a new diaphragm, check the cover, and see if I can get a helicoil or longer screw for it.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 09:36 AM
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Taking the accel pump cap and diaphragm off to take to Autozone see if they carry replacements. The diaphragm itself appears to still be good, but for safe measures i'll get a replacement. Hopefully they sell helicoils small enough for the holes.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 10:30 AM
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P/N 26-139 for the cover.
P/N 135-12 for the diapghram w/ new screws.




https://www.holley.com/types/Acceler...ce%20Parts.asp
 
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
P/N 26-139 for the cover.
P/N 135-12 for the diapghram w/ new screws.




https://www.holley.com/types/Acceler...ce%20Parts.asp
Thanks for the links ArdWrknTrk... question though; shouldn't I buy the PART #: 135-15 instead of the -12? 135-12 says not recommended for alcohol based fuels, and 135-15 shows its compatible with alcohol based fuels. I'd hate to have the same issue later down the road. Damn ethanol fuel >.<
 
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