OK. I've got a 91 F250 with the EFI 460. If I'm not mistaken, this means that it's detuned via poor head flow, large combustion chambers, and ungly bank EFI, but has straight up cam timing. My buddy has an 85 F250, which should mean that it has a little better flow, smaller combustion chambers, and is detuned via 6° of cam retard. SO, a swap, to carburation on my truck, should add quite a bit of giddyap, if I'm not mistaken?

 

If your buddy still has the stock timing chain it is retarded 8* at the crank, 4* at the cam.
Even your E7 heads flow better than his D3-A2A's in stock form. (no thermactor humps either)
Your lower intake is going to flow better than a stock carb manifold too.

If I were you I would just get the Price Motorsport CS460-EFI adapter and drop on a vacuum secondary 4V.
CS-460EFI

$125 and no BS to deal with...

 

Very nice. Thank you. How would you block the injector ports? Also wanna bump my compression, and was thinking bout putting some taller, flat top pistons, and maybe mill bout .010 off of the heads. Thoughts?

 

If you read the link you would see it comes with 8 brass plugs.
Figuring out the throttle cable bracket is up to you.

Personally I would get taller pistons and not mill anything.
Stock, those things are way down in the bore.
Cut the ridge and go.

If you cut the heads or deck the block you are going to have to get shorter pushrods and set up the whole valvetrain.
It seems like you just want to mix and match parts, not build an engine.

 

I'm trying to eliminate the EFI and gain back some of the power potential of this engine, as inexpensively as possible. This means that mixing and matching parts. You wind up with a bit of an oddball, but it does the job.

 

Ok, a couple of things. First, your stock pistons (88-92 EFI) have the smallest "bowl" of any 460 pistons, of the later heads, you have the second best (the F3 heads are the best). You can change to aftermarket pistons, but if you are going to have it apart anyway, Monsterbaby told me, deck the block .020, first it will true it up to the crank centerline and second it will help the compression. These engines will run 9.2-9.5:1 on regular gas.

Transmission, you say AOD in your sig, there is no such combination, a 460, first won't fit to an AOD, second it would gut it real fast, you should have a E4OD. These require a computer to run them, so you will have to buy a standalone transmission controller like a Baumann in order for it to work.

 

Thank you for the insight! Knowing that, where would a "stock" bottom end rebuild, an RV cam, .020" off the deck, and .010" off the head land me for compression and ~HP? Also, does anyone do an ECM program to support SFI, over the factory bank EFI? And how bout a TB spacer, and/or larger TB?

 

Forget the throttle body spacer.
Your only need for more volume is if the engine is struggling for air at max RPM's.
(not limited by the cam or SD programming)

For the same reason I would suggest against an RV cam.
I have one and don't like it.
I keep close to 1000# in the bed and still it is useless to me.
If I was hitched to a 12k 5th wheel constantly I could kinda..sorta.. make sense of it.
But I've lost too much top end to appreciate the gains lower down, and you have an automatic anyhow.

Everyone says deck the block. I agree that is the solution.
My suggestion of taller pistons was made with the qualification that you were assembling some pieces not building an engine from scratch.
If you have $3-5K and the downtime to put it together, by all means tear it apart and get busy.

If you want SFI and can't/won't find a late MAF emissions engine or go the Megasquirt+Tweecer+Baumannator route, then Bill is definitely the guy to talk to.

 

I took my 86 truck from carbureted with a C6 to SEFI with an E4OD. There are a couple of ways to get SEFI with basically stock Ford parts. Most of it is documented here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-86-f350.html

You can use a Mustang A9x EEC-IV box if you have a manual transmission or C6, if you have an E4OD, then the options become a bit more limited. You either have to use a standalone transmission controller and a Mustang A9x box, or staying with a EEC-IV system you can use a Bronco WAY1 box and either a TwEECer or Moates Quarterhorse to modify it for a 460 (one big item on either is firing order). You will have to modify the engine harness as the factory harness has the injectors wired in two groups of four.

Your distributor will work with an SEFI system with no problem. Air flow meter for mass air, 460s use a 90mm MAF, most mod motors also use one, easy to find along with the wiring. Air inlet to throttle body, you are probably going to have to do what I did, make your own, 460 MAF systems are rare and mostly in California.

I ended up going with an EEC-V box and direct flash capability, it has a lot more capability than the EEC-IV. Core Tuning will sell you the software and hardware to use either an EEC-IV or EEC-V box and their BE2012 supports Moates, TwEECer and a couple of other piggyback systems or the direct flash of the EEC-V.

 

That just got elaborate, in a hurry... What kinda gains did you see from goin to SFI?

 

Easier starts, particularly if the truck sits a few days, smoother idle, better performance, but part of that may be the wide ratio gears in the E4OD. I am sure the penchant for damaging #5 piston is gone too. I do not have a catalytic converter on mine as it is an over 8500 GVW 1986 truck. If you look at some of the pictures in my thread you will see the factory 1986 exhaust system and how Auto Muffler King mated the front portion of the EFI exhaust to my existing rear. I have dual 2.5" pipes to the muffler, then a 3" tailpipe.

The bank fired truck engines pair the four end and four center injectors as the two banks, bank one is the end ones, bank two the center. On the small block engines, the intakes have eight individual runners from the plenum to the intake valve, on the 460, the lower intake is basically a four barrel intake with injectors in it. The firing order puts #5 right after #1 and the bank fired engines have a problem with #5 either burning the rings or some other form of damage resulting in either a dead miss, destroyed piston or burning oil on #5. I resequenced my injectors like the old TBI units so the two end injectors on one side were paired with the two center ones on the other, this put #1 on bank one and #5 on bank two.

 

Uhh... Can you do the programming, and I'll install the ecm? You just went over my head... and I'm 6'9"... :-P

 

New question, along the same lines, does anyone make a blower manifold for the EFI heads, to accept a 6-71?

 

Trey, I see your stepping up into the big blocks. Glad to see I'm not the only one crazy enough to play with these old giants

I say find yourself a late 60's 429/460 with high compression, throw in some hardened valve seats (or add lead additive), and find yourself a nice big 4bbl carb. I have a big block c6 if you want to get away from all the computer crap (it's for sale, and I would let it go cheap if you wanted to come get it). I don't know about the blowers, sorry. Or if you wanted to get creative, find a 4 speed and convert over to manual (I don't know your feelings on manuals, I love 'em). Let me know if I can help ya man. I could use some help with my exploder, seems like you might know a thing or two about 'em.

 

Brandon, PM me. As you can see from my username, I've had a soft spot for large displacement and handshakers since highschool. I actually found a king cobra marine version and a '68 block at the same time, at the junkyard.