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Put the computer back in the truck, then checked all the spark plug wire ends for rust none was noted. Pulled the dizzy cap off and checked the stator for rust or bent teeth, none noted. While I was there I cleaned it up a little, just dust. Started the truck and still a miss.
So I ether am having fuel injectors not firing as they should, ignition coil not discharging correctly, bad PIP, or bad TFI module.
I plan on heading to autozoneout tomorrow and grab new plug wires, coil and some other parts in need for an other project.
Check the Fuel Pressure. Running, the regulator should be putting out 39psi.
Based off my haynes book, the fuel pressure for a 5.0L should be between 30 and 40 running running, and with the vac line disconnected pressure should rise 5 - 10 psi above running pressure. Which is what mine does...
But the pressures you listed are correct for the 4.9L fuel pressure. But, my truck is a 5.0L.
Today i pulled out the fuel pressure tester again and rechecked the pressure, 32psi with vac and 40 without vac. So then i replaced the coil with a new one with no avale. So a cracked open my haynes book to see how I could check the PIP. Voltage on the PIP out signal was 4.4volts, in which is within the 3-0 - 8.5 volts allotted. So I moved on to check the SPOUT (PCM, ICM, Ignition module) as the haynes book instructed. As it states in the text, if voltage is within 3.0 to 8.5 volts, the ignition control module is must be faulty by process of elimination; if not within said voltage fault is ether with the wiring harness or the PCM... Guess what the voltage was on the Spout in signal wire.
I didnt see how long the O2 sensor has been in, might be due for a change. Grab some Redline SL1 or Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner while you are at it, most other brands dont do much. You might try cleaning your ground points as well, bad/weak ground wire connections can cause wierd idle among other issues.
Based off my haynes book, the fuel pressure for a 5.0L should be between 30 and 40 running running, and with the vac line disconnected pressure should rise 5 - 10 psi above running pressure. Which is what mine does...
But the pressures you listed are correct for the 4.9L fuel pressure. But, my truck is a 5.0L.
Today i pulled out the fuel pressure tester again and rechecked the pressure, 32psi with vac and 40 without vac. So then i replaced the coil with a new one with no avale. So a cracked open my haynes book to see how I could check the PIP. Voltage on the PIP out signal was 4.4volts, in which is within the 3-0 - 8.5 volts allotted. So I moved on to check the SPOUT (PCM, ICM, Ignition module) as the haynes book instructed. As it states in the text, if voltage is within 3.0 to 8.5 volts, the ignition control module is must be faulty by process of elimination; if not within said voltage fault is ether with the wiring harness or the PCM... Guess what the voltage was on the Spout in signal wire.
Have you checked the intensity of the spark with a calibrated tester? I was chasing a no-spark situation that I could tease into a weak spark state by messing with the ICM connector. What I had was an intermittent fault on the ground to the ICM pin 1. In my case it was the connector but the ICM gets its ground from the distributor.
My two cents worth. Misses on every cylinder would smell like fuel pressure or something with the coil or ICM.
okay, so a few months have passed, and this whole time my truck has been parked due to lack of funds to repair her. But, now that i have a full time job and the money to fix her; I replaced the injectors and installed a mass air flow kit that I've had in the closet for 7 or 8 years. and it worked. No longer runs like crap...
Thanks to everyone that helped.
Now to get her insured again, get her some new shoes, and then I can take her out on the town again.