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I have a Jeraco cap or "topper" on mine. Here is Massachusetts that would be a "toppa".
Anyways, It is the standard deluxe series. It is about 4" higher than the cab. It fits my 99 F-350 8' bed very well. No leaks. I like the extra height beacuse ya never know when you need an extra few inches if you are moving furniture, etc.
Also, I like the fact that you can put the tailgate down, shut the rear door and it locks. A lot of times I have steel sticking out the rear and it is nice to have the rear window/door shut.
I've had good luck with A.R.E. caps. I've had two CX models on superduties.
I've also had a Century cap on a F150, but the quality was poor.
The A.R.E. ones are great caps.
Around here new they're about $1100-1200 installed after tax and all the little fees they charge (wiring harness, clamps, install).
I still have a A.R.E. CX cap that I just bought in January (fits long bed F-250 SD '99-03). Won't fit my new truck, so if you're near VT drop me a line, it is for sale.
i had a leer cap on one of my recent trucks, it was cab height and had the flush style windows and the rear window was suv style without the frame around it. very solid topper and it flowed from the cab so tight that the truck looked like a suv from a distance. nice! color matched perfect as well.
Any suggestions on ways to make an airtight/watertight connection between the truck sliding window and the sliding window on the topper??? Hopefully without risk of paint damage?
I do not think it is possible to do that without paint damage.
The cap manufacturers like Leer and ARE sell a boot that you can get, but my installer recommended against them.
The bed and cab move separately and once you get road dust/dirt in there the boot becomes like sandpaper. It scratches the paint.
If you still want one contact your cap dealer and they should be able to hook you up. Otherwise, just go without. I've never had a problem without the boot.
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