Starting problems
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Junior User
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From: Colorado Springs
Starting problems
I've got an 82 F150 that will not hold a charge on the battery. I'm on my 3rd new battery in less than 6mos. If I don't start it everyday, it won't start the third day. the only thing running directly off my battery is my radio and I have that un-hooked. Everything else is run off the ignition. Last time I started it, I unhooked the battery to make sure the alternator was still good, and it stayed running. That tells me the alternator is good. The truck does have a seperate starting selonoid from the starter. Could that possibly drain the battery? It's odd that it won't hold a charge longer than 24hrs. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
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From: Virginia
You have a drain on the battery. You can test for the drain by hooking a testlight up like the diagram below.
The first thing I would do is setup the testlight like the above diagram, and if it lights up bright(I am assuming it will indicate a drain) pull the wires off the alternator. If the light goes out, then you know your alternator is the problem.
If the light is still bright, then start pulling fuses till the light goes out. Make sure you shut the door for the test, the domelight will be a drain and mess your test up.
By the way, do not pull the battery cable off with the engine running. That's a old school way to test the alternator, but it can blow things up on a modern vehicle.
The first thing I would do is setup the testlight like the above diagram, and if it lights up bright(I am assuming it will indicate a drain) pull the wires off the alternator. If the light goes out, then you know your alternator is the problem.
If the light is still bright, then start pulling fuses till the light goes out. Make sure you shut the door for the test, the domelight will be a drain and mess your test up.
By the way, do not pull the battery cable off with the engine running. That's a old school way to test the alternator, but it can blow things up on a modern vehicle.
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You said everything but the radio goes through the ignition, but that's very un;ikely unless you modified it. Headlights, horn, taillights, dome lamp are just a small sample of what is hooked up constantly. That test light procedure works great...its like a $10 light.
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From: Colorado Springs
No I have not had a chance to yet. My job has been running me ragged lately. I do have the aftermarket lights from LMC Truck installed. There was some corrosion on the wires, so I ordered a new harness. Also picked up a test light from Harbor Freight, just haven't had time to mess with it yet.
Any additional suggestions for me to try?
Any additional suggestions for me to try?
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Texarkana, Arkansas
Wow I bet that is going to be a job replacing that wiring harness. I wish I could be of more help but something is pulling a little current. Did you say how old that battery is?
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From: Texarkana, Arkansas
Your having all my bad luck. Does your truck have a charging indicator or a idiot light? Just wondered how the output of your alternator is. In other words does it seem to be pulling current all the time. After a few seconds mine goes almost always back to the center position (when the lights and blower are off) which tells me nothing is pulling much current. Whatever is happening on yours is not pulling much current or you would have a blown fuse or smoke from the short. So it must be drawing milliamps and that is hard to trace down.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Georgia
You can use a multimeter to see what the level of drain is. A light, obviously, is only a yes/no indicator to a certain extent. The brightness may vary.
Just be sure you use a multimeter that has a high enough range, like 20 amps or so.
A pretest, to protect your meter, could be done with an inline fuse holder and a fuse of your meter's rating, or slightly less.
Then disconnect circuits, like the alternator, until you get down to a zero or acceptable drain.
Just be sure you use a multimeter that has a high enough range, like 20 amps or so.
A pretest, to protect your meter, could be done with an inline fuse holder and a fuse of your meter's rating, or slightly less.
Then disconnect circuits, like the alternator, until you get down to a zero or acceptable drain.
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From: Colorado Springs
Okay...Stupid question.... I'm assuming I need to pull the negative cable off the battery while I'm pulling fuses to check this out? That's what the diagram shows, but I am by no means mechanically inclined. Nor have I ever used a test light.
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From: Colorado Springs
Okay... UPDATE.... I followed the diagram and disconnected the negative battery cable and had the probe touching the cable itself. Then I went inside and pulled individual fuses. The light never flickered, never went out and never got any brighter. What next? And if you're gonna suggest using a multimeter, PLEASE be very detailed and descriptive with instructions. I do own an Actron CP7848 multimeter. But I don't have a clue how to use it. With that, I'm CLUELESS.
I don't know what setting to turn it on to or anything. If I need a different multimeter, let me know. I don't know if there's a difference with the settings and if mine has what I need. If possible, could someone look up the meter I have and let me know if it will work.... and how to use it?! LMFAO
I don't know what setting to turn it on to or anything. If I need a different multimeter, let me know. I don't know if there's a difference with the settings and if mine has what I need. If possible, could someone look up the meter I have and let me know if it will work.... and how to use it?! LMFAO
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From: Virginia
Did you pull the wires off the alternator? Yes, hook the light up just like the diagram above, with the negative cable off the battery, sitting out touching nothing except the testlight.
Try pulling the wires off the alternator.
Also look at the battery + cable on the battery. Are there any added wires going to amplifiers, brake controllers, lights, etc.? If you see any, pull these off too and see if the light goes out.
Try pulling the wires off the alternator.
Also look at the battery + cable on the battery. Are there any added wires going to amplifiers, brake controllers, lights, etc.? If you see any, pull these off too and see if the light goes out.
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From: Colorado Springs
Sorry for the delayed response.... My computer motherboard crashed and had to buy a new one....
To answer the responses, no I did not pull the wires off the alternator. I forgot about that part. I did put a new starter solenoid on today. Hooked up jumper cables and within seconds, it started. I went back to start it 6hrs later and it won't start. My volt meter was reading 14volts when I turned the key on. When I turned it to run to start it, it sounds like the starter is trying to start it but won't. It's got an unusual grind, not the typical bad starter grind. In addition, I was only able to try turning the key 3 times before the battery was completely drained to nothing.
I'm thinking maybe the positive cable to the starter has rubbed the frame or something and is maybe causing the battery drain???
I'm just throwing a guess at it right now until I can look at it in the morning. I'm really getting frustrated now.... Please help!! 
To answer the responses, no I did not pull the wires off the alternator. I forgot about that part. I did put a new starter solenoid on today. Hooked up jumper cables and within seconds, it started. I went back to start it 6hrs later and it won't start. My volt meter was reading 14volts when I turned the key on. When I turned it to run to start it, it sounds like the starter is trying to start it but won't. It's got an unusual grind, not the typical bad starter grind. In addition, I was only able to try turning the key 3 times before the battery was completely drained to nothing.
I'm thinking maybe the positive cable to the starter has rubbed the frame or something and is maybe causing the battery drain???
I'm just throwing a guess at it right now until I can look at it in the morning. I'm really getting frustrated now.... Please help!!