Starting problems
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 50
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From: Colorado Springs
My only means of reading voltage is the voltometer installed in the truck. Before trying to start it after 6hrs yesterday, it was reading almost 14 with the key on. After trying to start it the three times that I did, the voltometer wasn't even reading 10.
The battery was just replaced a month or so ago. When I hook up jumper cables to it, it will start right up. But without cables it's got a very odd grind, will not start, and drains the battery to nothing. I don't recall what size battery I installed, but I do know that the cranking amps exceed what is required
The battery was just replaced a month or so ago. When I hook up jumper cables to it, it will start right up. But without cables it's got a very odd grind, will not start, and drains the battery to nothing. I don't recall what size battery I installed, but I do know that the cranking amps exceed what is required
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I don't understand why you can't use the Actron meter as a voltmeter? I'd set it to something around 20V DC and connect it to the battery terminals (black to negative, red to positive) while the truck is running. This will tell you the voltage the alternator is putting out at idle, might blip the throttle to see if the voltage changes with engine speed.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 50
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From: Colorado Springs
I've never used a multimeter before. And the Actron I have does not have a setting of 20. On the DC V side it has a 2.5, 50, 250, and 1000. It is also not a digital either. I guess it's old school. It's just one I acquired years ago, but have never had to use nor learned how to use.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Regardless of how "new" the battery is, you either have a bad battery or bad connections - probably at the battery. I say "at the battery" because you are connecting the jumpers to the battery cable and the truck cranks fine, so the other connections downstream are good.
As for the Actron, put it on the 50v scale and do as Chris suggested.
As for the Actron, put it on the 50v scale and do as Chris suggested.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Right, a 50V scale will work just as well. What we need is a scale that reads MORE THAN the anticipated supply voltage but, at the same time, isn't so high that you can't see the needle move.
0-20 contains 14V quite well and will let the needle move at least halfway through its travel (so you can detect and measure the movement). If we used, say, a 2,000 volt scale, it'd be pretty difficult to detect any movement with such a low voltage.
What we are trying to determine is if your alternator is charging the battery or not... this is why we take readings at the battery with both the engine not running, and with it running.
A failed diode in the alternator can cause a persistent drain on the battery, this is why you disconnect it when doing the test-light test while pulling fuses - remove the alternator as a possible cause of the problem (it necessarily cannot be the cause of a drain if it is disconnected from the system).
I think it's Grubworm here who has a lot of electrical system diagnostics in one of his albums, can also use Google and search the net, can also get a Haynes or Chilton.
0-20 contains 14V quite well and will let the needle move at least halfway through its travel (so you can detect and measure the movement). If we used, say, a 2,000 volt scale, it'd be pretty difficult to detect any movement with such a low voltage.
What we are trying to determine is if your alternator is charging the battery or not... this is why we take readings at the battery with both the engine not running, and with it running.
A failed diode in the alternator can cause a persistent drain on the battery, this is why you disconnect it when doing the test-light test while pulling fuses - remove the alternator as a possible cause of the problem (it necessarily cannot be the cause of a drain if it is disconnected from the system).
I think it's Grubworm here who has a lot of electrical system diagnostics in one of his albums, can also use Google and search the net, can also get a Haynes or Chilton.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Colorado Springs
Okay, So I was a busy guy on Sunday.... I pulled the wires off the alternator for testing purposes following the original instructions with the test light. The test light never went out when I did that. But when I pulled the wires from the alternator, 2 of the connections broke. I took the alternator to Advance Auto and they tested it. It failed. I replaced the connections and installed a new alternator as well. I also took the battery to get tested. It's an 800 CCA battery. When tested at Advance, it was only pulling 57 CCA. Took it to Wal-Mart (its a neverstart), which is not even 10min from Advance Auto, it was only pulling 18 CCA. So they replaced it free of charge. Right now, new battery and new alternator, the truck is starting every time.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
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From: Vine Grove KY
About a year ago I was having some gremlins with my truck. I am now of the opinion that when it comes to the starting system, its okay to just replace parts and throw money at it. The reason I say this, is its far better to KNOW for sure that battery cable, or alternator isn't causing a problem. When it comes to starting systems on old used vehicle from now on out I will drop the $300 or so to replace the battery, alternator, cables, any connections, starter, solenoids etc etc just to have the peace of mind that its all good.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,100
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From: Georgia
Personally I'd rather spend 20 min doing some diagnostics and find I only need to spend $50 and a 1/2 hour replacing the actual failed part.
Of course, if you have a bunch of parts that are in bad condition then it make sense to replace them. For instance, low voltage to a starter, whatever the cause will eventually damage your starter.
Of course, if you have a bunch of parts that are in bad condition then it make sense to replace them. For instance, low voltage to a starter, whatever the cause will eventually damage your starter.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
That is the typical approach I take to everything. However, it annoys me to no end having a perfectly good running engine, perfectly good shifting transmission that won't move because I thought "eh that battery cable looks aight to me..." I hate being stranded, and with a wife and two little boys I hate getting her out while dragging the kids along to come rescue me. Its just worth the headache to me to ensure the darn thing will start.
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