Valve spring question

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Jun 30, 2013 | 11:47 AM

mdlave

Thread Starter

Cross-Country

Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 90

Likes: 0

Valve spring question

I'm currently rebuilding a 460 from a 1973 Lincoln to go back into a 1978 F150 4x4. C6 transmission, headers, 750 Holley Carb, stock intake.

I want to upgrade the cam as part of the rebuild. How much of additional lift will the stock valve springs handle? Am I asking the right questions?

If it is a good idea to replace them anyway, would new stock springs be okay or should I go with ones included in a cam,lifter, etc. kit?

Jun 30, 2013 | 12:08 PM

mikeo0o0o0

Hotshot

Joined: Apr 2009

Posts: 14,333

Likes: 247

From: Stanley, VA

Replace the springs. When you buy the cam get the complete cam and kit that the cam manufacturer offers.
These kits are engineered so all the components work together.
The lifters should also come with the kit. Never, ever reuse old lifters on a new cam!

Jun 30, 2013 | 08:36 PM

F-250 restorer

Lead Driver

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 7,165

Likes: 375

From: Near Los Angeles

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0

X2 on all that.

Jun 30, 2013 | 09:12 PM

mdlave

Thread Starter

Cross-Country

Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 90

Likes: 0

Thanks. That settles that.

Any recommendations for cam/lifter/valve spring combos besides the comp cams packages? Or are they the best bet?

Jul 1, 2013 | 09:29 AM

mikeo0o0o0

Hotshot

Joined: Apr 2009

Posts: 14,333

Likes: 247

From: Stanley, VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdlave

Thanks. That settles that.

Any recommendations for cam/lifter/valve spring combos besides the comp cams packages? Or are they the best bet?

It really depends on what you want to do with the truck.
I like Competition Cams but there are several others out there that offer equivalent grinds.
If you're building a daily driver then I would go with a mild hydraulic grind, short duration and overlap, higher lift, smooth idle. That's where you'll get more bottom end torque.
If it's more a weekend cruiser then you could go wilder with more duration and overlap, that's where the "lumpy idle" comes in but you'll lose bottom end torque and get top end horsepower.
A lot of manufactures websites have "cam finders". Answer the questions and they recommend a cam grind.

Jul 1, 2013 | 07:57 PM

KIKKUP

Elder User

Joined: Sep 2012

Posts: 654

Likes: 2

From: The Lone Star State

One thing I'll add is since the rest of your motor seems stock is to stay more on the mild, lower rpm side. There are some good grinds out there that will not penalize your vacuum and that's what you want when you have an automatic. I will recommend that when you do this you consider replacing your stock type umbrella valve stem seals with some Viton units. Stay away from the Teflon. (I bought those and busted two of them installing, they are way too hard). Not sure if all of Viton types require machine work but mine did and it was easily done with a hand drill and the proper tools comp cams sell. The cam I picked was a Lunati 10340702, 1400-5800rpm, hydraulic cam. Catalog says its "an awsome 4x4 performance cam..."

I read some positive user reviews on it but that one might be a bit more than what you want with your application.

Also, consider new pushrods too and maybe rocker arms too because its likely that your entire top end is well worn and when you just replace certain parts you may have failure with the components you skipped.

Jul 2, 2013 | 11:49 AM

mdlave

Thread Starter

Cross-Country

Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 90

Likes: 0

If I were to replace the heads with stock new assembled D3ves (found a good deal locally) and picked a real mild cam, would spring replacements still be necessary?