Brake Fade-will hydroboost help?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 167
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From: Chico, CA
Brake Fade-will hydroboost help?
My 87 F250 4x4 has brake fade when loaded on long mountain grades.
I've been wanting to do the hydroboost upgrade, but will it help enough?
Anyone using ceramic pads and cryoed rotors?
Thanks, Mike
I've been wanting to do the hydroboost upgrade, but will it help enough?
Anyone using ceramic pads and cryoed rotors?
Thanks, Mike
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 426
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From: Topeka,Ks.
It might just be your pads and shoes. People like to put cheap house brands on. I would go with Wagner or Raybestos. I like the Wagner Thermo Quiet for front pads. I put Wagner Severe Duty on the rears, they have sintered metal in them. It really stops. I don't tow. And no mountains in Kansas. I don't know what's on the front haven't changed them yet. Someone on here said the sintered metal shoes will wear your drums faster, which makes sense, but they sure stop good.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 21
Fade usually has to do with heat soak and pads. As has been suggested you may want to make sure you have quality pads that re made for extreme duty. Then flush your brake fluid and use something quality. I have had good success with Valvoline Synthetic. It is inexpensive and performs well. If that doesn't fix it you could look into larger rotors or possibly fabbing up some brake ducts to help cool them. I haven't heard of people using ducts on these riggs, but it works great on track cars to prevent fade during repeated heavy braking.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,361
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From: Mi'kma'ki
hydroboost from vacuum for increased performance.dimpled and slotted rotors to combat fade and warped rotors.
here's what i did;
1.hydroboost brake upgrade.click here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-brakes.html
2.dimpled and slotted brake rotors.click here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12533316
she stops incredibly better than when she left the ford plant in '93.brake performance increase was massive,making the safety level of the truck rise drastically.
with all that said,when you hook up to your trailer,your trailer brakes should be good enough to stop your load and truck.so personally i would start with your trailer brake system first then upgrade the truck brakes after.
1.hydroboost brake upgrade.click here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-brakes.html
2.dimpled and slotted brake rotors.click here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12533316
she stops incredibly better than when she left the ford plant in '93.brake performance increase was massive,making the safety level of the truck rise drastically.
with all that said,when you hook up to your trailer,your trailer brakes should be good enough to stop your load and truck.so personally i would start with your trailer brake system first then upgrade the truck brakes after.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Chico, CA
Thanks for the replys,
I'll be looking into those slotted/dimpled rotors. i see they offer a free standard semi metalic and a $ 40 premium brake pad.
I'll call them to find out what the difference is.
I've always used Napa middle grade semi metalics.
Anyone had experience with the cryoed rotors? Their much more expensive.
The Valvolinf Synthetic sounds good as I do need a complete flush.
I'll be looking into those slotted/dimpled rotors. i see they offer a free standard semi metalic and a $ 40 premium brake pad.
I'll call them to find out what the difference is.
I've always used Napa middle grade semi metalics.
Anyone had experience with the cryoed rotors? Their much more expensive.
The Valvolinf Synthetic sounds good as I do need a complete flush.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 2
From: western washington
you might not like this reply but I have logged more than 1.5 million miles in OTR trucks. brake energy has every thing to do with speed. slow down, before the hill, and make certain that trailer brakes are working properly. Quality brake parts are good. but not a fix all.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 7
From: Over There
Hydroboost will do very little for brake fade, yes it will help a little by helping to increase brake pressure but the real problem is heat. Both from cheap pads but most likely old brake fluid. Brake fluids whole point is to be a VERY high temp hydraulic oil. But brake fluid absorbs water, and well water boils. So often a spongy pedal under long hard braking is the water in the brake fluid in the caliper boiling. I would start with a full brake fluid flush concentrating on the front, if it's not clear right now when it first comes out, then go till it's clear then another 16-32oz or so to flush it out all the contaminants. Brake fluid is cheap.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Chico, CA
Thanks Brute,
This is what I thought about the hydroboost. I have already replaced rotors and have decent pads,
I haven't done a good flush for some time.
This is what I thought about the hydroboost. I have already replaced rotors and have decent pads,
I haven't done a good flush for some time.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 167
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From: Chico, CA
Semper Fi speed,
I already do the things you advised, but some of the grades in the mountain backroads I drive are so long and steep, the pads start smelling burnt.
Thanks all for the advise,
Mike
I already do the things you advised, but some of the grades in the mountain backroads I drive are so long and steep, the pads start smelling burnt.
Thanks all for the advise,
Mike
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 333
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From: Co
Performance wise rotors/drum material or slotted/dimpled will make no difference with modern pads. Even on the race car I use the cheapest hunk of rotor I can get but on the flip side the pads are $200 an axle and with a 100% stock brake system never have brake fade.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,361
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From: Mi'kma'ki
i used off the self autozone brake rotors with a good grade semi metallic brake pads.the rotors warped and the truck pulsated and the steering wheel shook like mad when braking.
since the swap to the slotted and dimpled rotors,no more issues.
for brake fade down long mountains,im not sure if anyone's tried one.but there is always the option:
http://www.usdieselparts.com/index.c...9l-73l-idi.cfm
pricey.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
for brake fade down long mountains,im not sure if anyone's tried one.but there is always the option:
BD Exhaust Brake Ford 6.9L 7.3L IDI
pricey.
BD Exhaust Brake fits 1983 - 1994 Ford 6.9L & 7.3L IDI with 3.5" Exhaust
Controlled by a lighted On/Off toggle switch for automatic transmissions, or stick-mounted rocker switch for manual transmissions, the BD brake communicates with the engine’s electronic idle verification board for quick engagement.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 21
i did this.there are other issues with doing that though.
i used off the self autozone brake rotors with a good grade semi metallic brake pads.the rotors warped and the truck pulsated and the steering wheel shook like mad when braking.
since the swap to the slotted and dimpled rotors,no more issues.
i used off the self autozone brake rotors with a good grade semi metallic brake pads.the rotors warped and the truck pulsated and the steering wheel shook like mad when braking.
since the swap to the slotted and dimpled rotors,no more issues.
Does the hydro boost just increase the clamping force of the caliper on the rotor?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
From: Co
Only problems Ive ever had running cheapie rotors is from equally cheap pads where it leaves deposits on the rotors (same pedal feel as warped), frankly the only way I can think of to warp modern parts is to get them good and hot then go through a river crossing or getting nice and hot and parking with brakes fully engaged (or parking brake) but thatd be more of a case of leaving deposits then warping.
Exhaust brakes have 0 effect on head gaskets since the back pressure never gets back to the combustion chamber, the biggest thing you have to worry about with these trucks (6.9 and 7.3) is the valve springs are fairly weak in comparison to newer diesels so you cant run as much back pressure without floating valves (and bending them).
As far as activation Im pretty sure it goes off the throttle pedal or TPS for our trucks (check the instructions itll say)
Exhaust brakes have 0 effect on head gaskets since the back pressure never gets back to the combustion chamber, the biggest thing you have to worry about with these trucks (6.9 and 7.3) is the valve springs are fairly weak in comparison to newer diesels so you cant run as much back pressure without floating valves (and bending them).
As far as activation Im pretty sure it goes off the throttle pedal or TPS for our trucks (check the instructions itll say)
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