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My trans is shifting a little hard. Its not as hard as it would be in limp mode. It is really smooth towing something. By itself it shifts hard, seems to be worse when it shifts from first to second. The other gears are better, but could be better. I have replace the sensor in front of the motor on top, Looks like a big nut with two wires on it. I replaced that a few years ago. I have had my trans go into limp mode a year ago. I had to disconnect the battery to erase the codes (before I could check them) so I could get home, and never did it since. Any help would be great thanks. 1994 f3507.3idi with auto trans e40d
what have you been running for trans fluid Dean? old mercon or mercon 5?
how long has it been since it's last fluid change? how many miles on the trans?
do you run a trans temp gauge? what have the temps been?
have the shifts always been firm? do you know if there has been a shift kit installed?
The last filter change was about a year ago. Maybe 5,000 miles (+-). Im running the napa brand I believe its the mercon. trans has about 60k on it since a rebuild by the previous owner. The trans temps are the same as always, around 150 sound right? Im trying to picture the gauge without the truck here.
if it's shifting firm (less than limp mode) in all the gears and the trans has been rebuilt and if it's always shifted firm,then id say it's probably got a shift kit installed.
if the trans shifts late and firm,really hanging onto each gear (besides just when 3/4 or more throttle) then it could be the tps (fipl) is set too high.
if it's been gradually getting worse over time,and the highest trans temps are 150 (which is just the bare minimum you want) then she may not be burning off condensation well enough.try blocking off some of your aux trans cooler or install a 180 t-stat to get temps up to the more ideal 170-180 range and it may help.if you have this issue going on,you may or may not see the fluid looks a little milky (which reminds me.a common issue i have with my dump bed reservoir.nothing to heat up the trans fluid in there.i need to check on this again.)
It seems to be late and firm option. The trans will get around 200 when pulling a load through town. The fluid doesn't seem to be milky. I was reading your post on testing the tps sensor. Now you say when 3/4 throttle it will get better? That might be why its better with my trailer.....
the 3.9V @ WOT is ok,but the 1.3 @idle is too high.she'll hang onto the gears far too long and shift too firm when she does.try 1.2V idle while keeping around 4V WOT.she'll be much happier.
yeah it can be tricky.take a look at where the tps sits on it's bracket right now.take a mental note and know this is incorrect.
do you notice the side towards the firewall is more upwards or downwards? if so,move it the other direction,and now while keeping it up or down there by snugging up that bolt,loosen the front,and tip this one until 1.2v is seen.now try again for 4.0-4.5V at WOT.
the reason your not getting both,is because the axis of the thing isn't correct.keep at it.you'll see what i mean and be able to nail both close.
Ok Been Messing With It For An Hour. A Little Frustrated. On The Bracket I Have 2 Bolts, And On The Radiator Side At About 8 O'clock There Is A Stop With A Standard Screw Head. It Doesn't Hold The Bracket On Just Guides It Up And Down. I Think This Is Causing Me Issues. Do You Have This Too? Or Is It Because I Have An After Market Pump? The Most I Can Get Out Of The Wide Open Throttle Is A Little Over 3.9. But That Brings The Idle Way Up. I Guess I Could Say there Is 3 Pivot Points.....
yeah,your missing the correct axis.you must adjust the rear or the front up or down more,leave it set there and twist the opposite end again.it's hard to describe.i can set it a lot easier than describe it and that's no fun either lol!
let say for example,the front and the back are in the middle of the slot right? and you just keep adjusting it from there up and down with the front or the rear trying to get both idle and wot but you seem to be chasing your tail and it's tossing off one idle or wot.
you'll never get them both.
what you'll need to do is find a different axis,where the rear is clearly set up high for example only,then adjust the front sweep/arc slowly to try and find a place then,where the idle and wot numbers get close to 1.2 idle - 4.0 wot.
i hope this helps,as it's the best i can explain the tricky little bugger.
once you find the correct axis it'll look positioned in a way that doesn't resemble how it's sitting right now.then you snug the bolts and ever so very gently tap the bracket to dial it right on the $.
then she'll haul ars up hill at WOT in 2nd and boost like mad if turbo,and lock/unlock upshift/downshift like a hd dream machine.
that covers the first basics which is important.to make sure the ground is clean and the 5V source at the tps is there.then the adjustment for 1.2 idle - 4.0 wot of the center wire.
so the article is a good read first.
ok I have had a heck of a time doing this because of the 3rd screw being in the way, I can't change the axis.....it only moves up and down. I will send a pic if I can figure out how. I even took it to another shop twice and they said the same thing