or you could simply mount the assembly upside down,so the deep motor is on the pass side.i was going to just do that,but i had found just enough room.it's tricky,but it does fit.at least with the 9th gen and serpentine belt.it's real close to the a/c compressor.that deeper motor is a bit more powerful than the shallow one,but two shallows would still be overkill on just relay's @ full power anyway.
if you can live with the appearance of it,just flip it.you'll have all the room needed then and work just the same.

 

The link was a good read.

Thanks for the info 250.

Think i am going to torture myself this week... wiring... might as well kill all 3 birds with this stone. Going to wire in my e-fuel pump, headlight relays, and grab some e-fans. Going to grab a bigger, or secondary smaller power supply unit to house the extra relays / fuses and for future capability for who knows what. Might need a water /meth pump or some accessory lighting, who knows. Wish me luck!

Hijack over

 

thanks for the link, i think i'll mount the second motor that way

in my van, the deeper (low power) motor simply does not fit. its depth sticks out to the rear of the power steering pulley, at a height where it interferes with the PS belt. any higher and the shroud is above the radiator core, any lower and it interferes with the pulley as well. i guess pickups have more room there than vans do.
i considered mounting it upside-down, but found that i still wouldn't have the required depth for the motor, and i noticed that the small motor had drain holes on one side, and would be prone to filling up with water if installed upside down. i'll try to avoid problems when i can.

i found myself a 100a relay that i'll be using for the bigger fan, just because i can and i know its not gonna wear out anytime soon. the second one might get another of the same, or might get a standard 40 amp relay in the standard bosch layout - i'm not sure yet - but if i don't trust it i might give it 2, 30a relays in parallel just to avoid trouble.

 

update: i've almost got it together. i took the instructions in the oilburners link, neglecting the part about fitting the windstar shroud into my shroud, but using its motor fitment plan, i've got the motor mounted to the shroud, and the fan blade unit carved up till it fits over the motor, thought i was gonna finish it tonight, but found that i had to trim the depth of the fan blade at the shaft, and being midnight, i'd already been told to keep the noise down so i decided to wait till morning to finish grinding it up.

the rough cutting on the shroud was done with a sawzall and finished with a 4.5" angle grinder with a grindstone, cutting on the fan blade has been a combination of things, including dikes, grinder, knife, etc. much of the grinder work on it was done while spinning it with a cordless drill so i would cut evenly on all sides.

just another hour or so in the morning and i'll have it all put together.

with just the big fan in place, it doesn't have enough cooling power for stopping in traffic, i got up to 230 several times today as i was running around. hopefully the second fan in there will be enough to keep it cool - i've got less than a week before i take off for new mexico with a trailer, and i gotta have it solid by then.

 

it shouldnt be running that hot.. i could leave mine idle for an hour plus before it would break 210-215 with no fan. What are your egts at idle? should be like 225-250

 

I think I will jump on the wagon and do an e-fan swap also. My fan is noisy as crap. I seems most peoples trucks are running over 200 deg. Mine runs 180 all the time no matter what so It makes me think my fan might be locked up all the time.

Will the 60 amp stock alternator be able to put out enough for this swap. I know you have the 3g swap. I just had my alternator rebuilt and he said he could give me 90 amp guts in it. I should have went that way but if my stocker will push it then I will be next in for a swap.

 

well, with a non-functional clutch fan, mine would usually maintain a more reasonable temp like that, but not right now.

i have no clue about my EGTs, as i don't have a gage on that yet.

i agree it seems a little hot, but everything is pretty new. radiator, thermostat, head gasket job, both heater cores, etc. so what else would be causing it to run too hot like that

whalebus, these fans pull about 30 amps each, so by themselves they'll be pulling the full capacity of your 60a alternator. you'll need an alternator upgrade to run them

 

i don't understand that at all.mine gets warm and would peg the needle up over 240 degree without a fan spinning just through a drive through in summer.(roll your windows down,hear all those modern engines cooling fans kicking on/off? listen for them next time.)
are you an exact 50/50 mix? i fear you may be running too much water.keep you cooler than normal yes,but all your corrosion inhibitors and sca protection is in the other 50%.the coolant.
be sure to check it with a coolant tester.

i tried just one fan temporarily as well just for kicks and giggles when i was installing like you.
i had the same results.1 fan wasn't enough.don't fret.230 is very safe still,and two fans spinning should bring a smile to your face.

most trucks run 200 + because the oem t-stat is 192 and is fully open at 212.
this means,you could toss all the air through the largest radiator you wanted,and the engine should still come up to around 200 degrees with a proper 50/50 mix.
so if your seeing 180 degree's you know your t-sat has failed (fortunately in the open position) and needs to be replaced.
it could possibly be an off brand causing the issue too.remember motorcraft or navistar t-stat brands only.

as noted,if you want to run electric cooling fans,you first must do the 130a (or larger if you prefer but i plow,dump my bed up for traction and spin e-fans while pushing snow and iv never been in want for more juice) 3g alternator swap.

 

i've heard 230 described as the hottest i should be willing to go when working it hard - means its still safe but it still shouldn't get there quite so easy.

i got the second fan finished up today and installed, haven't taken it out for a drive yet, but with a forecast of 95* tomorrow, that should make for a great test of its performance.

 

yeah,mines been getting there too easy as well this summer.i figured out both my issues.
1.oil temps climbing too high.-ordered oil temp gauge and aux oil cooler w/t-stat.it's hard to keep coolant temps at bay when oil is 260+ degrees!
2.under hood air temps through the roof.need to expel the air.best way i figure is functioning fender vents.
i'v pulled right over and popped the hood to let the hot air out,and coolant temps fall more rapidly.they've been so bad,they frigged up my electrical sending units for coolant temp and had to install mechanical coolant gauge.over temp light came on in all.though coolant temps were only 230 not 240.opened hood,light went right off letting the hot air out.hot,hot hot under there.
now with a large trans aux cooler,and an intercooler both stuffed in front of my rad,the air just doesn't flow through like it used to last summer.
so iv got to install some fender vents as much as i hate cutting into that new paint.

i turn the e-fans on,and the temps drop right out down to 195-200.turn them off,and she starts to climb to 220-230 again just going down the road.the e-fans still more than cure her issues,but i just don't want them on all the time either.
so the e-fans are working so well still not so much as they need to draw in cool air,but expel the dang air that wont flow out on it's own anymore.
so now two more mods required due to prior mods.it's an endless battle but it sure is fun!

 

my current wiring has both fans on one controller, set supposedly at 210 but closer to 195 on my gage. its an adjustable controller so i can turn its temp down a little if i choose to.
i'm planning to set it up with the large fan controlled by a simple thermostat switch, set to turn on at 210 and off an 195, and the small fan maybe 5 degrees below that on the controller i already bought.

as we're on the subject, i also want to take the fan on the tranny cooler, and control it with a thermostat instead of a toggle switch. what would be an ideal temp for that thermostat?

 

Not following ya here? If youre just idling, and your idle egts are only 225-250 it will take plenty of time to get over 230, if it gets there. In fact our two cummins on the ranch, which seem to have much cooler egts, will actually cool off from operating temp if you let them idle. Especially in winter, the 07 wont get above 120 idling. VS a gas engine which has constant and hotter egts at idle, sure you will hear cooling fans. Not sure how that relates... As far as the coolant, I always run a touch over 50/50 to keep the boiling point up in the higher altitudes.

 

well, with both fans its working pretty good so far. today was in the mid-80s, and while it did creep up to 235 for a second in traffic, it pulled itself right back down quickly.

it turns out my trip south won't be in the van, so i won't have to worry about how well it cools for an intense trip like that - makes my life easier!

 

im 300 EGT @ idle.
hairy when you say,you could run your engine without a fan,and it would take 1 hour to get up to 230* if ever.have you actually tried?
i fear something is wrong with my engine then,cus it only takes a few mins sitting and im pushing 230 without fans on.
have you actually taken the mechanical fan off to know your engine runs this cool at idle without any airflow?
is this the '92 f250 w/7.3? if not,is this the '79? whats in it, a 7.3 or a 6.9?

 

This is in the 79, it has been fanless for a couple years, it wasnt locking in, so i just took it off. Only time it would get hot is pulling grades / loads. Idling its fine. It will eventually get to 240 idling, but i forgot it was running for like 3hrs in 90* My guess is its timing / pop pressure related. in the 92 with the HPCA on egts at 1k are 185ish, once the HPCA is off it idles at 225ish @700rpm.

This is just my experience not saying anything one way or the other really.

Dennys 12v, if the pyro is accurate, idles at 135*.. totally amazes me. I think it is accurate because according to him it will not open the t-stat unless you are driving, even letting it idle half the day.