a/c compressor not engaging
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New User
Joined: Jun 2013
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a/c compressor not engaging
Gents,
I have a 2001 ranger 4x4 4.0 L with what appears to be a unique a/c problem. Over the last week the compressor will not kick on immediately and seems to randomly decide when it is going to function. Once it starts, it runs properly and cools well, until I turn the engine off and it is back to square one. We have checked the coolant level and it is full. the problem seems to be getting progressively worse....At first it took about 15 minutes for it to decide to trip, then 30 minutes, and yesterday I drove for over an hour and the compressor never kicked on.
Any thoughts? I am not a mechanic and will not be able to fix or troubleshoot this myself, but would like to be informed when I take this somewhere and try to explain it.
I have a 2001 ranger 4x4 4.0 L with what appears to be a unique a/c problem. Over the last week the compressor will not kick on immediately and seems to randomly decide when it is going to function. Once it starts, it runs properly and cools well, until I turn the engine off and it is back to square one. We have checked the coolant level and it is full. the problem seems to be getting progressively worse....At first it took about 15 minutes for it to decide to trip, then 30 minutes, and yesterday I drove for over an hour and the compressor never kicked on.
Any thoughts? I am not a mechanic and will not be able to fix or troubleshoot this myself, but would like to be informed when I take this somewhere and try to explain it.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 776
Likes: 3
From: Philly, PA USA
for one, when you say coolant level, do you speak of antifreeze or freon?
antifreeze level must be good too. To check freon level, it's a little tricky... it would be good to use a good manifold set to check both high and low sides to see what exactly a/c is doing a bit better. It could be that compressor is on the way out or maybe a blockage by orifice tube. With the use of a manifold set low side should be around 35-45 depending on ambient temp and high should be about 200-245 when the compressor is running.
Here's a basic table for possible symptoms:
Low Pressure Low
High Pressure Low: ~Low refrigerant Charge
Low side normal
High Side Low: ~High Side Restriction
Low side normal/high
High Side Normal/High: ~System Overcharged
Low side high
High Side high: ~Moisture in the system
Low side Low
High Side Normal: ~Faulty Cycling Switch
System will not operate: ~Stuck open Cycling Switch
Low side high
High Side high: ~Inoperative cooling fan, blocked Condenser
If you end up changing out the compressor, be sure to replace the accumulator and orifice tube. Most shops or stores will not warranty the work or parts without doing so. Hope this helps you, good luck!
antifreeze level must be good too. To check freon level, it's a little tricky... it would be good to use a good manifold set to check both high and low sides to see what exactly a/c is doing a bit better. It could be that compressor is on the way out or maybe a blockage by orifice tube. With the use of a manifold set low side should be around 35-45 depending on ambient temp and high should be about 200-245 when the compressor is running.
Here's a basic table for possible symptoms:
Low Pressure Low
High Pressure Low: ~Low refrigerant Charge
Low side normal
High Side Low: ~High Side Restriction
Low side normal/high
High Side Normal/High: ~System Overcharged
Low side high
High Side high: ~Moisture in the system
Low side Low
High Side Normal: ~Faulty Cycling Switch
System will not operate: ~Stuck open Cycling Switch
Low side high
High Side high: ~Inoperative cooling fan, blocked Condenser
If you end up changing out the compressor, be sure to replace the accumulator and orifice tube. Most shops or stores will not warranty the work or parts without doing so. Hope this helps you, good luck!
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jun 2013
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Cubawashere,
Thanks for the quick reply. Freon was the "coolant" I was referring to. When we checked the freon, we did not have both gauges. Thank you for the reference. Question is how to force the compressor on so that the gauges will work.
Thanks for the quick reply. Freon was the "coolant" I was referring to. When we checked the freon, we did not have both gauges. Thank you for the reference. Question is how to force the compressor on so that the gauges will work.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 776
Likes: 3
From: Philly, PA USA
wouldn't want to force it... You mentioned it would cycle on it's own after driving for a bit? that would be the best way. The fittings luckily aren't hard to get to so it shouldn't be hard to hook up while running. No need to open any valves on the manifold BTW, only close and open at the fitting hook up to help keep from spraying while connecting or disconnecting.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Lorain County, Ohio
The symptom you describe really sounds like a wide clutch gap.
Next time the compressor won't engage, tap the clutch face with a screwdriver handle. If it engages, the gap is too wide and needs to be adjusted..
Go to the FAQ in the Heating/AC section for the 'shimectomy" procedure..
Next time the compressor won't engage, tap the clutch face with a screwdriver handle. If it engages, the gap is too wide and needs to be adjusted..
Go to the FAQ in the Heating/AC section for the 'shimectomy" procedure..
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