I have a 1960 with a 223 and 3 speed manual on the column. I noticed that the tail shaft on transmission is leaking. Leaks a little in driveway and noticed it is throwing oil on exhaust pipe and underside of bed. I would like some help identifying what type of transmission and where to purchase seal and any help on how to change. Thank you

 

As long as it's stock, I would think you could just go to any parts store (NAPA or CARQuest would probably be best) and tell them the year and engine. If they give you the wrong one, you can measure the inside diameter and outside diameter and someone (Number Dummy here probably knows it anyway) can cross-reference it somewhere and get you what you need.
I had a '55 Fairlane and the rear pinion seal went on it, and NOBODY had the right seal in their computers or books. After a week or so, someone gave me the name of a parts house in town (Phoenix, at the time) that would know but I'd "pay for it." The guy had the right seal, but it cost me $60 to get it...once I had it, I ran the part number online and the seal was only about a sawbuck- so I paid the price for expertise.
Good luck.

 

Go ahead and put a pan under the tail of the tranny and then remove the drive shaft. Then you can pry the seal out with a screwdriver being careful not to destroy it if possible and not to scratch up the tranny housing. You can then take it to most parts stores and they can match the numbers on it or at least take measurements. Between the vehicle info mentioned above and this info, it shouldn't be a hard to find piece.

 

As Deyomatic stated, providing that trans is stock there are still about 10 different trans it could be... Borg-Warner trans that come up are: T85, T86, T86G, T86H, T87E, T87G, T89, T89C, T89G and then Ford Trans. no number provided. There must be a plate or stamped markings like the link I provided here:
I hope this helps.... otherwise have the measurements handy... Housing bore, shaft width/size, and seal outer diameter. Good luck!

 

Another tip for you...if you are having a tough time prying the seal out, or if you want to take it out in one piece, you can take 2-4 self tapping or machine screws, you can drill (whatever size drill bit is just smaller than your screws) into opposing sides of the seal (like East and West on a compass, or N, S, E, W). That way you can just grab the protruding screws with Vise Grips and wiggle the seal out.

I learned this trick on my '55 Fairlane from a suggestion on a popular traditional hot rod site. The tailshaft seal was leaking, I had problems getting it out, then the method above was suggested and it worked like a charm. In the long run, though, the car was telling me something...within a year I was driving down the highway and felt the most horrendous vibration- impossible to ignore...pull the car over and call a tow truck something is seriously messed up kind of vibration. Turns out, the driveshaft had a dimple in it that caused it to be out of balance, and it got worse over time. I never had a clue about the dimple or the imbalance...I had a new driveshaft made to the previous specs only to find out that the vibration bent my tailshaft inside the tranny...the other tranny I had was a 3 speed toploader so I had to have the new tailshaft shortened (I think) to work...what a pain...
Long story short, you MAY want to see if your driveshaft is still balanced while it's a cheap fix. Mine was pretty expensive, when all was said and done.

 

Seal available from any auto parts store, used from 1942 thru 1986 on myriad vehicles. 1957/60 F100: There were two different 3 speeds, with or without overdrive...seal fits BOTH.

D9BZ-7052-A (replaced 21C-7052-A, A2TZ-7052-A & C4TZ-7052-A) .. Extension Housing Seal.

Applications: 1942/47 Commercial (1/2 ton truck), 1948/52 F1 & 1953/62 F100/250 Ford 3 speed manual (non syncro 1st gear) / 1953/64 F100 Warner 3 speed w/Overdrive.

1963/86 F100/250 & 1964/86 Econoline with Ford type 3.03 3 speed manual all syncromesh trans / Myriad 1949/79 Ford 3 speed manual passenger cars.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: Inside the extension housing is a bushing: B3TZ-7A034-B (replaced B3TZ-7A034-A). It develops burrs, which tears up the seal. I would suggest replacing the bushing, too.

 

REALLY helpful info, I will get driveshaft balanced as well...cant hurt anything. Thanks again for the help.

 

Just ordered both parts from local Napa with the part numbers you supplied-easy as can be. Will get to it this weekend-thanks again for the great help ND

Joe

 

any ideas of what type of gear oil to use? I have a shop manual on the way that should help me with these questions in the future

 

The manual on page 17-16. calls for heavy-duty engine oil (MIL-L-2104A), which is now obsolete, - S.A.E. 50. Pretty sure I used 80w90 in mine. Of course I only drive it in the summer time.

 

On the oil, there are a few places where you can find SAE 50 engine oil. But the SAE 90 gear oil is close, but can be a little low on the high temperature viscosity. It should work as long as you are not very heavily loaded on really hot (110 + ° F) days.


For the technical details:
SAE 50 engine oil has kinematic viscosity limits of 16.3 min to less than 21.9 max centistokes at 100° C.
SAE 90 axle and manual transmission lube has kinnematic viscosity limits of 13.5 min to 24 max centistokes at 100° C.

And for the pure fun of it:
A near perfect match would be an ISO VG220 circulating machine oil - but that is not easy to find unless you are buying by the 55 gallon drum.

 

I used 90 in mine since 1975 and a few years ago changed to 80-90. The last time I changed it I learned afterwards that the newer GL5 rated oils eat up brass syncros, and should only be used in rear ends. I found some GL4 and changed it out.