Ok so the people we traded our 93 F250 for called us wondering if we had converted to the new style. I told them I thought that 93s had the new style stock but they said the took the hose fitting to there 01 F350 and it didn't fit. So did the 93s have the new style ac recharge fitting stock or do you have to convert it. I was just curious on this we never charged the ac as we never needed it plus the condenser was bad in it.

Also is it possible to run ac without the condenser being good I never heard of this but they said they could.

If you need to know the truck was a 93 F250 4x4 460 V8 super cab that had most of everything on it replaced.
I know my 88 F150, our 86 F150, and both our 89s have the new style but I don't know if they were converted.
Trav

 

Are you asking about the fitting for recharging system? most 1994 and newer used the R-134A adapter and older than 1994 used the R-12 adapter. If it is R-12 which im sure it is you either need to convert it or get old R-12 or a drop in replacement(maxi-frig worked good in my '79 Trans AM.)

 

ok thanks for that info good thing we sold the truck then don't have to deal with I know our current trucks have the new style converted wasn't sure if the truck we sold had it or not.
Trav

 

Good thing previous owner of my '92 already converted. Alot of cost involved on that i'm sure you know.

 

ya luckly the PO of our trucks did it. and our other newer trucks have some.
Trav

 

You asked about the condenser... it depends on why it's bad. If it's bad because it leaks... the A/C might cool just fine, until the new Freon charge leaks out. If it's bad due to external fin damage causing insufficient airflow, then it likely won't cool inside the truck well, and usually will ice up. If it's bad due to internal clogging... read below.

Fords from the late 80's thru the mid-90's had a severe factory problem with the A/C compressor they used. The internal components of the compressor were made of a defective plastic that shreds into tiny pieces and circulated thru the system straight to the condenser... There, the pieces quickly built up and clogged the internal passageways, restricting the flow of Freon and oil thru the system, resulting in more shredding inside the compressor, and more clogging... a vicious cycle that continues until the compressor is destroyed, the system is hopelessly clogged with plastic bits, and this is commonly called "Ford Black Death"
Typically, an owner will think replacing the compressor will "cure" the vehicle, and the new compressor will quickly fail.. sometimes in days, sometimes in a couple weeks. Then they will try to "flush" the system... And again the compressor will fail quickly. This is because Flush solution is fantastic at removing mineral oil, and most other contaminants.. but it does absolutely nothing to dissolve plastic.

For a Ford in this year range, there is only one way to properly and permanently repair or switch the system over to R-134a...
1: Replace the compressor with a rebuilt unit... the new rebuilt units do not have the plastic coating inside them.
2: Replace the condenser and evaporator (the condenser is in front of the radiator, and the evaporator is located under the dash) Neither can be cleaned completely of plastic bits.. even back flushing doesn't remove it all. And any plastic left can work loose and destroy the new compressor.
3: Remove and flush the high and low pressure lines. If an R-12 system, I recommend having new hoses made using Barrier hose, R-12 hoses are porous to 134a, and will always leak a small amount thru their outer casing.
4: Replace the Dryer
5Replace the original black rubber O-Rings with 134a approved Green Nitrile O-rings. Ester Oil is not compatible with the original rubber O-Rings, and they will fail... it literally eats them. Be sure to lubricate the new O-Rings prior to installation with clean Ester Oil
6 Install the new 134a conversion fittings
7 pour 8oz of Ester Oil into the system by doing the following:
Using a Turkey Injector or othe syringe, inject 2oz oil into the new compressor... turn the compressor BY HAND 10-15 revolutions to circulate it prior to cranking the engine (extremely important!)
Inject 4oz oil into the inlet side of the new condenser.
Inject the remaining 2oz into the new dryer)
8: Replace the orfice tube
9: Replace the Clutch Cycling Switch with one for 134a... they are set for a different pressure to accommodate the difference in pressure of 134a vs. R-12. If your switch has a flat bladed screw inside where it plugs in, you can try adjusting it by backing it out 1/2 turn, this will set it to roughly the on/off points needed for 134a. This step is the number 1 reason people claim R134a doesn't cool as good as R12... They didn't account for the operating pressure differences needed between the old R-12 vs the new R134a
10:Re-install all the lines and hoses, and tighten the fittings.
11: Hook up a vacuum pump and pull a min. of 25in vacuum for 45min. Turn off the pump, allow to sit with the valves closed for 30min. and check the readings... if it has lost more than 2in vacuum, you have a leak... find and fix it before proceeding.
12: Charge the system with 80% of the R-12 weight of R134a. R134a is very sensitive to under/over charging.. and will lose a good bit of cooling power if under or over charged by as little as 2oz by weight.

Doing this, you will have a trouble-free A/C system that will cool just as good as R-12, and last many years and miles. Skip a step to save a few bucks.. and you'll likely pay for it later.

 

93 ford could be either style. early production trucks used R-12, later production trucks use R-134A